My car definately starts
#1
My car definately starts
Ok, so after starting my car, there is this grinding sound-like following the moment it starts. It would sound like someone is running/pushing/using a fork swiftly over a grater(kitchen utensil). It sounds for a quick 8 seconds and kinds of slows down and stop before hitting the 8 second mark.After that, I'm fine and dandy and i can drive wherever and get back safe without any problem.It's also a some-time-ish POS............because i went over a friends house to let him hear it, and wat do you know.....it kept its sorry **** quiet. Any help appreciated.
#2
Could be the starter whining. If it is, it is a sign that is is on its way out. How many miles are one the (assuming OEM) starter? There is a re-greasing how-to in the stickies that will fix it, or you need to consider getting another starter handy.
#3
From what you describe, it sounds like typical cold start timing chain rattle. I get it too, but it only lasts for 1-2 seconds, longer if the oil needs to be changed. When's the last time you changed your oil? The next time you go to start the car, have someone do it for you while you listen out by the passenger side of the engine. If the noise comes from that area, then you know that's likely what it is. Changing the timing chain tensioner can be a PITA, because the working space is cramped, you basically have to work blind, and it's possible for parts of it to drop into your timing cover if you don't take it out carefully .
#4
I agree sounds more like the timing chain rattle and you could use with a new tensioner and guide. painful aggravating install, a shop might not charge you that much to do it, but who knows if they'll do a good job and not screw up your motor. If you have the tools and the know how I'd say tackle it....after you confirm for sure the noise is the timing chain ratlling on start up
#5
I agree sounds more like the timing chain rattle and you could use with a new tensioner and guide. painful aggravating install, a shop might not charge you that much to do it, but who knows if they'll do a good job and not screw up your motor. If you have the tools and the know how I'd say tackle it....after you confirm for sure the noise is the timing chain ratlling on start up
Have someone else start it, you stand under the hood on the pass side, take a screw driver and just hold it on the timing case cover, hold your fist around it and place your ear on your hand, I bet you hear it louder and clearer.
#6
99BlackMaxMS;6513591]Could be the starter whining. If it is, it is a sign that is is on its way out. How many miles are one the (assuming OEM) starter? There is a re-greasing how-to in the stickies that will fix it, or you need to consider getting another starter handy.
From what you describe, it sounds like typical cold start timing chain rattle. I get it too, but it only lasts for 1-2 seconds, longer if the oil needs to be changed. When's the last time you changed your oil? The next time you go to start the car, have someone do it for you while you listen out by the passenger side of the engine. If the noise comes from that area, then you know that's likely what it is. Changing the timing chain tensioner can be a PITA, because the working space is cramped, you basically have to work blind, and it's possible for parts of it to drop into your timing cover if you don't take it out carefully .
I agree sounds more like the timing chain rattle and you could use with a new tensioner and guide. painful aggravating install, a shop might not charge you that much to do it, but who knows if they'll do a good job and not screw up your motor. If you have the tools and the know how I'd say tackle it....after you confirm for sure the noise is the timing chain ratlling on start up .
Have someone else start it, you stand under the hood on the pass side, take a screw driver and just hold it on the timing case cover, hold your fist around it and place your ear on your hand, I bet you hear it louder and clearer. .
#7
The chain is usually good for the life of the car, but what tends to need replacement is the tensioner. if you're doing it yourself in your driveway, I would just try changing the tensioner first and use your existing guide. keep in mind that it is basically spring loaded and will 'explode' if you don't take it out carefully, with parts of it dropping down into the timing cover. some people insert a paperclip in the hole to keep it compressed and prevent it from popping apart when you try to remove it. To change the guide, you have to remove the timing cover because you can't get it out through the access cover. .
Is your car a 95? for those of us with 95's, the tensioners that nissan currently supplies require replacement of the guide in order to line up/function properly . 96+ already have the updated guide.
edit for picture, to give you an idea of what you have to get to, credit to NmexMAX:
guide is the crescent shaped part on the left, and the tensioner is the part w/ the two bolts, that pushes on the guide to tighten up the chain slack. so to get to the tensioner, you have to take off the black access cover that is closer to the firewall. the water pump is behind the other cover, closer to the radiator.
Is your car a 95? for those of us with 95's, the tensioners that nissan currently supplies require replacement of the guide in order to line up/function properly . 96+ already have the updated guide.
edit for picture, to give you an idea of what you have to get to, credit to NmexMAX:
guide is the crescent shaped part on the left, and the tensioner is the part w/ the two bolts, that pushes on the guide to tighten up the chain slack. so to get to the tensioner, you have to take off the black access cover that is closer to the firewall. the water pump is behind the other cover, closer to the radiator.
Last edited by CRiME; 07-12-2008 at 11:15 PM.
#8
OKAY THEN.!!!.......Imma re-check with the sound tomorrow,update and let you guys know that the sounds is definately from that area and then start hunting for help......i have no experience down and around there AT ALL.Holy ****.......that some deep stuff.I appreciate the picture alot Crime....NmexMAX.BTW, my car is a 99 SE cali-sepc.
#9
JtzMax i when my car is warm,i hardly hear the noise. However, im thinking that, even if someone with a maxima that has absolutley no problems with their car hooks/places a screwdriver against the timing chain cover and places their ear on their hand, they will still be able to hear the chain moving.Im going to try the same task tomorrow again firt thing tomorrow after starting the car to see if i heard it any louder than today. So far what i do realize is that this noise gets kinda quiet when engine is warm, so i will try tomorrow and see what happens.
#10
So i have been reading and talking with some person on the org and learning at the same time, that the tensioner has something to do slightly with oil level/prssure somehow.From my understanding, it could aslo sound like my car has burned oil causing the level to drop thus not creating as much pressure as needed. Chime in people and let me know if this makes any sense. Also, if you do agree with the oil issue, a car with 140k and had oil changed say 4k ago, what oil would you guys recommend, how many bottles of it and will i need new filter.Thanx Guys!!!!
#11
So i have been reading and talking with some person on the org and learning at the same time, that the tensioner has something to do slightly with oil level/prssure somehow.From my understanding, it could aslo sound like my car has burned oil causing the level to drop thus not creating as much pressure as needed. Chime in people and let me know if this makes any sense. Also, if you do agree with the oil issue, a car with 140k and had oil changed say 4k ago, what oil would you guys recommend, how many bottles of it and will i need new filter.Thanx Guys!!!!
#12
^^^^ agreed! I use Castrol GTX and still change every 3k.
As for the noise, can you post a clip of it? Start up (cold and warm) The TC tensioner applies pressure to the TC guide, to hold the chain taughnt (in place). The tensioner (btw ... there are 3 total, but the 1 in question is on the left side of the front of the engine - as noted above, 2 - 14mm bolts) is a hydrulic pin with a spring under it to push it out. So, if the tensioner is bad, the oil level shouldn't matter. I don't think it would impact the noise anyway. If the oil is low, you might hear the cams hitting the valves on the other hand. A clip of the noise would help a lot here! Please ... if I am wrong here, someone with more knowledge step in.
As for the noise, can you post a clip of it? Start up (cold and warm) The TC tensioner applies pressure to the TC guide, to hold the chain taughnt (in place). The tensioner (btw ... there are 3 total, but the 1 in question is on the left side of the front of the engine - as noted above, 2 - 14mm bolts) is a hydrulic pin with a spring under it to push it out. So, if the tensioner is bad, the oil level shouldn't matter. I don't think it would impact the noise anyway. If the oil is low, you might hear the cams hitting the valves on the other hand. A clip of the noise would help a lot here! Please ... if I am wrong here, someone with more knowledge step in.
#13
^^^^ agreed! I use Castrol GTX and still change every 3k.
As for the noise, can you post a clip of it? Start up (cold and warm) The TC tensioner applies pressure to the TC guide, to hold the chain taughnt (in place). The tensioner (btw ... there are 3 total, but the 1 in question is on the left side of the front of the engine - as noted above, 2 - 14mm bolts) is a hydrulic pin with a spring under it to push it out. So, if the tensioner is bad, the oil level shouldn't matter. I don't think it would impact the noise anyway. If the oil is low, you might hear the cams hitting the valves on the other hand. A clip of the noise would help a lot here! Please ... if I am wrong here, someone with more knowledge step in..
As for the noise, can you post a clip of it? Start up (cold and warm) The TC tensioner applies pressure to the TC guide, to hold the chain taughnt (in place). The tensioner (btw ... there are 3 total, but the 1 in question is on the left side of the front of the engine - as noted above, 2 - 14mm bolts) is a hydrulic pin with a spring under it to push it out. So, if the tensioner is bad, the oil level shouldn't matter. I don't think it would impact the noise anyway. If the oil is low, you might hear the cams hitting the valves on the other hand. A clip of the noise would help a lot here! Please ... if I am wrong here, someone with more knowledge step in..
#14
OK guys, here ya go.Let me know what y'all think. The noise i heard right after start 3 days ago before i made this thread, ofcoarse didnt happen...that sometime-ish-facker. However still picked up some sound.
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00003
This is the first startup
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00004
This is the 2nd start up 2 mins later.(multiple starts)I couldnt hear the sound i wanted to hear, but the phone picked up this sound.listen carefully.
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00005
This is somewhat the third starup and i placed the phone mic up against the timing chain cover.
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00003
This is the first startup
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00004
This is the 2nd start up 2 mins later.(multiple starts)I couldnt hear the sound i wanted to hear, but the phone picked up this sound.listen carefully.
http://www.filedropper.com/vn00005
This is somewhat the third starup and i placed the phone mic up against the timing chain cover.
Last edited by Snypa; 07-14-2008 at 11:38 AM.
#16
Did you listen all three vids.? Standing infront the car, you cannot hear a thing, but the phone picked it up. What are brackers.? I heard the funny sound(immediately after start) like two weeks ago, didnt pay it any mind. But it happened the other day and i decided to make a thread on here about it.So yeah, what do you think from here.......is the oil change worth anything trying although it still needs to be done.?
#17
A tensioner that will need to be changed will make loud noises at start up but usually the first time you start the car and its cold. It will be the loudest then, each time you start it after, especially as oil pressure is building/built up you wont hear it as often.
#18
OK.....so from my sound files and so, waht do you think.?
#20
When I'm reading this I also start thinking if I should do something to the tensioner.
Car has 241000km on it an during the last 20000km (at least) it has made this rattling noise. I can not hear it when starting or driving. But after a while of driving when idle rpm is below 1krpm I can hear a constant rattle. It can even be heard inside the car if I listen for it.
I recently happened to see two Camry V6 taxis standing behind red lights and the rattle from both was much louder than from my max so I just assumed it is normal. Really great thinking!
Oil has been changed every 12-13000km and cheap full synthetic brands have been used. The filter has been replaced every time. Nissan recommends 7500km with mineral oil but in Finland I need oil that allows my car to start in the winter too (maybe mineral oils do that nowadays too). I have never seen any reduction in oil amount in the engine. Never filled a drop so I guess my engine is in good condition. Now I have driven 10500km with the current oil, "total quartz, full synthetic" and the oil is not too dark yet.
If someone has anything to say about this I would be very happy!
Thanks!
Car has 241000km on it an during the last 20000km (at least) it has made this rattling noise. I can not hear it when starting or driving. But after a while of driving when idle rpm is below 1krpm I can hear a constant rattle. It can even be heard inside the car if I listen for it.
I recently happened to see two Camry V6 taxis standing behind red lights and the rattle from both was much louder than from my max so I just assumed it is normal. Really great thinking!
Oil has been changed every 12-13000km and cheap full synthetic brands have been used. The filter has been replaced every time. Nissan recommends 7500km with mineral oil but in Finland I need oil that allows my car to start in the winter too (maybe mineral oils do that nowadays too). I have never seen any reduction in oil amount in the engine. Never filled a drop so I guess my engine is in good condition. Now I have driven 10500km with the current oil, "total quartz, full synthetic" and the oil is not too dark yet.
If someone has anything to say about this I would be very happy!
Thanks!
#21
darron you had your oil changed yet?
i would recommend doing it asap, and doing it yourself.
its pretty easy to do - takes about 15 minutes and all you need is 5 qts and a new filter.
i would recommend doing it asap, and doing it yourself.
its pretty easy to do - takes about 15 minutes and all you need is 5 qts and a new filter.
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