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P0400 EGR Problem

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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #1  
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P0400 EGR Problem

I wanted to post my solution, hopefully this will help someone.

I have been plagued with an P0400 code and CEL off and on for quite a while now. At first, like everyone else, I assumed the EGR tube to the intake manifold was plugged because this is such a common problem. I finally decided to clean it and it turned out that my tube was dirty, but not blocked. The problem remained.

I pulled the diagnostic steps from the Nissan Service Manual and began looking for other causes. I checked and found that I was not getting vacuum to the EGR value. I tested the EGRC Solenoid valve, and it turned out that it was bad. I was not getting an EGRC code, because the problem was mechanical, not electrical (the ECU thought the EGRC valve was good).

Since I couldn't find an EGRC valve quickly, I decided to take a crack at repairing it. It turns out the valve was stuck closed. I cleaned and refurbed the valve and re-installed it. So far, it is working great.

FYI: It is much easier to remove the nut holding the EGRC valve in place if you remove the Air Intake Assembly first.

Hope this helps someone with an on-going P0400 problem.
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 04:53 AM
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What was the procedure for the cleaning and refurbing?
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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can you take a pic of where the EGR valve is?

much appreciated



kL
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 08:17 AM
  #4  
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i have the same problem. How do i clean it and where do i look for it. Any pictures would be helpful. Thanks
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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I had the same P0400 problem that is due to a non working EGRC solenoid valve, too. However, in my case the solenoid coil is bad. Before you tried to open up the valve and clean it, you can check the coil resistance. The bad one resistance is about 300 ohm. The replacement one is about 34 ohm.
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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What was the procedure for the cleaning and refurbing?
I am not sure I could produce a detailed procedure from memory, but I will try to hit the high points... THIS IS A DESCRIPTION OF THE STEPS I TOOK TO ATTEMPT TO REPAIR AN ALREADY FAULTY PART. ANY ATTEMPT TO OPEN THE PART COULD CAUSE IRREVERSIBLE DAMAGE TO THE SOLENOID VALVE.

Test the valve:
<EDITS TO FOLLOW>

Tools/parts:
1) ? 10mm ? wrench to remove the EGRC Valve
2) Needle nose plyers to bend the tabs
3) Screwdriver or Knife to pry it open
4) WD40, Degreaser, pipe-cleaners
5) 2 ft of vacuum hose.


0) Remove the EGRC valve from the engine and remove the hoses.
1) Disassemble the valve by pinching the four sets of tabs at the top of the valve together, making sure they are straight up. Use a screwdriver or knife to carefully pry the cover off (over the tabs you just straightened out).
2) Slide out the Solenoid coil (hopefully this is good). There are two o-rings on the top and bottom of the solenoid coil. Clean them with a little bit of WD40 and wipe dry.
3) Attached to the cover is a plastic stem with 2 connections for hoses. Inside this stem is a small round metal piece and a spring. The metal piece should move freely within the stem (mine was stuck). I had to bang the piece on the workbench to get it to come out.
4) Clean any buildup out of the plastic stem and tubes, pipe cleaners work well for this. I found it necessary to roll up a small tube of 150 Grit sandpaper ( grit side out ) to clean the inside walls of the stem. I kept working this until the metal piece moved freely within the stem.
5) I used a wd40 and then a de-greaser to remove any remaining debris or gunk in the tube.
6) Reassemble the valve, but don't bend the tabs back out yet.
7) Test your work: With the key in the 'on' position, but car not started. Plug the EGRC electrical connection back into the valve. You should here a satisfying little click (not the connector snapping into place) from inside the valve. That means the solenoid is moving the little metal piece inside. If you don't here the click, you did something wrong, or the coil is bad.
8) Once it tests good, make sure the top plate in on good and tight and bend the tabs back the way were to hold the assembly together.
9) Reinstall the EGRC Valve and reset the check engine light. While you are doing this, you should probably install new vacuum hoses, they're cheap.
10) Done!

Last edited by robsst; Jul 29, 2008 at 09:58 AM.
Old Jul 25, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Digitized
can you take a pic of where the EGR valve is?

much appreciated



kL
Digit,

Do these help?



Old Jul 25, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #8  
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Thanks for posting the diagram. This will definitely help me out in the next coming weeks as I begin working on the various CEL codes in my free time.
Old Aug 23, 2008 | 12:51 AM
  #9  
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RE:EGR

I am new to this forum but I have to say If you can not locate the EGR on a A32 or any car for that matter,You should take it to a shop.I was under the impression that this was for NISSAN enthusiasts.OK,enough with being a ****!anyone with KS problems?it CAN be done without removal of intake or the use of a childs hands!
Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #10  
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oem ftw!
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Originally Posted by nbladzika32
I am new to this forum but I have to say If you can not locate the EGR on a A32 or any car for that matter,You should take it to a shop.I was under the impression that this was for NISSAN enthusiasts.OK,enough with being a ****!anyone with KS problems?it CAN be done without removal of intake or the use of a childs hands!
And I was under the impression that you should be . What does this post have to do with anything?

:attention
Old Aug 23, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Originally Posted by nbladzika32
I am new to this forum
Clearly.


This is why Pmohr needs to become a mod for the 4th gen forum, clean this place up and hand out the infractors for stuff like this.
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #12  
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the hose popped off of my EGRC Solenoid valve
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #13  
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I had the same problem with P0400, replaced the egr valve and reset the code, it went away for about 200 miles and it came back. Not sure where to go from here, anyone have any ideas what I should do next.
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