MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

I'd suggest you remove the nut and inspect the damage, but first remove the strut from the car. Remove the strut and use some vice grips (and a rag so as not to damage it, even though the strut is probably toast anyway) on the strut rod to steady it while you crank off the nut (or if you have an impact gun that will work too). Make sure to compress the spring before you start cranking the nut off.

The strut rod should NOT be turning with the nut. The way they prevent this happening is instead of making the strut rod round, they give it an extruded "D" shape (check out the picture I provided, there is a flat spot on the threads, that's the flat part of the D) to fit through the "D" hole in the strut mount. This acts as a "key" to anchor the strut rod so you don't have to use any stupid vice grips to tighten it. Your threads have gnawed the flat part of the "D" away and then some, so there's no longer anything keeping the strut rod rotationally anchored.

The bright side? New strut, new strut mount and you're done.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^ just to make clear about compressing the spring.....

there is a tool called a "strut/spring compressor" (imagine that!!lol)
it is very important that you use this and use it properly!!!!
taking struts apart has caused many injuries and sometimes death.
BE VERY CAREFUL!!!
I am not trying to scare you I just thought it should be addressed

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, if you don't have spring compressors go rent them from autozone or kragen. And then use them.

djipka

iTrader: (9)

when I worked at the car shop we used the lifts to compress the springs)) That was in Bulgaria though.
One thing that I know helps a lot is to have an air compressor and tools. They are always of great use and help. Some times we only used them to do struts without compressing the spring

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

I have done it by having a big guy lean on the spring and I'd hit the nut with an impact gun, but compressors are the proper way to do it

tyler5619

iTrader: (7)

i've heard of a "quick strut" that i can buy, and evidently i do not need to compress the spring or anything. and as an added bonus, while i'm in there taking the assy. apart, i can have all new parts and it's not that much more expensive. what brands would you all suggest?

EDIT: keep in mind i have an SE. i am fairly certain that makes a difference. for what it's worth, Tokico made the struts currently on my car

EDIT2: is monroe the only company that makes a pre-assembled full strut assembly? google is being lame

djipka

iTrader: (9)

if I remember right Tokico also has something like that. But the Monroe Sensa-Trac quick assembly is the most common one. I have Sensa-Trac's right now and they are ok but not the best. not sure about the SE. I don't think the Monroe will work.

hinoi30

Found some instructions on change the balljoint or control-arm, it says a balljoint removal tool HT72520000 (J25730-A) is required. What can I do to remove the old balljoint without investing (buying) such a tool for a one-time use ? I am still doing the reading and not yet start the actual work. I have fixing things under the hood but never did by myself a single thing under the car, not sure if this is a DIY job ?

tyler5619

iTrader: (7)

i know the sensatracs were already on your car when you bought them, but where would you suggest buying them? more importantly, where would you NOT buy them? ebay? amazon? ORLY's wants 284 per strut...as does AAP...autozone.com has never heard of them lolz

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

That price is about right, since you're paying for the convenience & ease of installation. If you do need to change the struts & or mounts/bearings, don't bother with the sensatrac kit. Spend $40 on some spring compressors and don't be afraid to use them, it's not that bad at all - tighten a few bolts, remove the strut shaft nut, replace the strut and you're done.

djipka

iTrader: (9)

Yeah I would say the same thing. Unless You have to change the mounts and all I would just get the struts and change them. Now there is the thing that "time is money" so if you are like me sometimes its cheaper to save time than money. Thats when the quick strut is worth it.
From my looking around I thing AAP had a good price on them.

ChrisBkQns13

Hey, do you think that you can post those instructions on changing the balljoint and control arm? I'm having a similiar problem and I suspect its definitely something with the LCA. Just got my first max a week ago. 99GLE. Trying to do as much research as possible. Thanks.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

The LCA repair is here:
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15

It's a great write up. Good luck with the work and welcome to the site!

ChrisBkQns13

Thanks. You weren't kidding. Those pictures really help too. Shouldn't be too hard with these instructions to follow.