Car needs a tune up... not sure where to start
Car needs a tune up... not sure where to start
Well, it's 155K on it and it aint running like a 4 door sports car it used to be... I am thinking to do a MAJOR tune up but not sure where to start...
So far i am planning to change my:
knock sensor
spark plugs
seafoam- god it needs it
fuel filter
oil filter along with an oil change
What else? What should i check? I know my 5 spd tranny is giving me problems by sometimes not going into 1st, so it will probably need rebuilding along with a clutch change
My goal is to make it a car it used to be (spposed to be). And dont tell me the miles are a problem, because i know maximas still have kick at these miles...
i am serious i need all the helpful feedback i can get... i dont want to give up on the car, i know it's not running like it should
So far i am planning to change my:
knock sensor
spark plugs
seafoam- god it needs it
fuel filter
oil filter along with an oil change
What else? What should i check? I know my 5 spd tranny is giving me problems by sometimes not going into 1st, so it will probably need rebuilding along with a clutch change
My goal is to make it a car it used to be (spposed to be). And dont tell me the miles are a problem, because i know maximas still have kick at these miles...
i am serious i need all the helpful feedback i can get... i dont want to give up on the car, i know it's not running like it should
also, i think i have figured out the problem to my cars EXTREME sluggishness... Right now, the cars RPM climbs rather slow (thats what people have noticed also) during WOT....
Flywheel and clutch needs to be replaced..... i think
Flywheel and clutch needs to be replaced..... i think
Last edited by 19max95; Sep 4, 2008 at 12:09 AM.
If your clutch were toast, during most high-load WOT runs the clutch would break free and it would rev higher than it should.
i forgot to mention that maf is brand new... Old one really gave me problems where my car just stalled for no reason... and by replacing it i thought that was the culprit for the sluggishness... but i guess not
Last edited by 19max95; Sep 4, 2008 at 01:21 AM.
or its just my tranny needing some attention... thats why i will dedicate a whole day for inspection finding the cause for sluggish performance (0-60 in 8 secs... im sick of posting the vid of it)
its an SE model for God sakes and accelerates like an automatic... takes forever to climb to max rpm
Post in another forum I made:
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR5E-11 (last for 30k - supposedly the best spark plug for a NA 4th Gen Maxima)
Fuel Filter: 95 300ZX filter...lasts for 30k instead of the normal 15k the Maxima one lasts for
Coolant: Flush out old and put in Toyota/Nissan/Honda OEM from respective dealer. PM me for flush DIY instructions.
Oil: Switch to Mobil 1/Amsoil Synthetic (if not already using, but I recommend doing AutoRX application first) OR use Castrol GTX (not high mileage) if sticking to Dino oil.
Oil Filter: Use Nissan OEM for your year Maxima ONLY (get the tall one because they have two versions)
Air Filter: Get rid of any after market you might have and use Nissan OEM. My K&N filter dirtied my MAF and affected my idle.
Other things to do: Clean IACV, MAF and TB. Adjust idle to be 700-750rpm with NO LOAD. Clean any grounds you can get to as well as doing the Big 3. Check your tire pressure and set to 30-32psi per tire. Change your PCV valve as well and Sea Foam the CRAP out of your car. Literally, you will smoke up the neighborhood.
As you can see, I'm no slouch when it comes to maintenance. PM me if you have any question. You do what I just typed up and your mileage should approach 19-21mpg (if your O2 sensors are good and exhaust has no leaks).
Fuel Filter: 95 300ZX filter...lasts for 30k instead of the normal 15k the Maxima one lasts for
Coolant: Flush out old and put in Toyota/Nissan/Honda OEM from respective dealer. PM me for flush DIY instructions.
Oil: Switch to Mobil 1/Amsoil Synthetic (if not already using, but I recommend doing AutoRX application first) OR use Castrol GTX (not high mileage) if sticking to Dino oil.
Oil Filter: Use Nissan OEM for your year Maxima ONLY (get the tall one because they have two versions)
Air Filter: Get rid of any after market you might have and use Nissan OEM. My K&N filter dirtied my MAF and affected my idle.
Other things to do: Clean IACV, MAF and TB. Adjust idle to be 700-750rpm with NO LOAD. Clean any grounds you can get to as well as doing the Big 3. Check your tire pressure and set to 30-32psi per tire. Change your PCV valve as well and Sea Foam the CRAP out of your car. Literally, you will smoke up the neighborhood.
As you can see, I'm no slouch when it comes to maintenance. PM me if you have any question. You do what I just typed up and your mileage should approach 19-21mpg (if your O2 sensors are good and exhaust has no leaks).
Change your tranny fluid too, wrong viscosity could make it hard to shift from gear to gear. I am very happy with the redline synthetic. Make sure you get gl-4 fluid though NOT gl-5
I will leave stock cats though for Smog reasons...
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 98
i'd say your knock sensor...i had the same problem...but with like 60k miles. if you already put a new knock sensor on and it still is very sluggish, that sensor is picking up a knock, and purposely slowing the motor down to run like poop so that so you don't cause more damage by overworking it.
i'd say your knock sensor...i had the same problem...but with like 60k miles. if you already put a new knock sensor on and it still is very sluggish, that sensor is picking up a knock, and purposely slowing the motor down to run like poop so that so you don't cause more damage by overworking it.
net wednesday the car will get a tune up hopefully...
Im not suggesting getting aftermarket exhuast. what I was saying is that the stock cats can get clogged ,its a kind of common thing,especially with older cars. put your hand at the tail pipe ,not on it, and have someone rev up the engine, if it feels like there isnt much exhaust blowing out the cats( or cat) are clogged up. this will make the car VERY sluggish.
hope that helps
Im not suggesting getting aftermarket exhuast. what I was saying is that the stock cats can get clogged ,its a kind of common thing,especially with older cars. put your hand at the tail pipe ,not on it, and have someone rev up the engine, if it feels like there isnt much exhaust blowing out the cats( or cat) are clogged up. this will make the car VERY sluggish.
hope that helps
hope that helps
I was just saying, as soon as i check everything out and make it run the way it should, i will add a couple of goodies to make it a more sportier daily driver...
Man, i gotta tell you, i used to hate maximas, but now it just clicked for me, i realized that it has good potential and is very reliable...
It smokes older mustang gt's, that has to tell you something...
by the way guys i have one more concern, its with my A/C i guess. I dont know how to explain this but here goes:
When i use my a/c in the car and the speed is at 3 or 4 (A/c that is), the car starts shaking, and while idling, RPMs are climbing and dropping by maybe 200 rpm constantly... And also, sometimes when i shift at 3000-3500 rpm with the a/c on the car sounds different, like some sort of r/c car or a ferrari (cant really explain it, but sounds weird) I have figured its the belt (but which one, im no mechanic)... but i dont know, any suggestions.
I may record a vid of that later and i guess post it in a separate thread... if this does not get answered...
When i use my a/c in the car and the speed is at 3 or 4 (A/c that is), the car starts shaking, and while idling, RPMs are climbing and dropping by maybe 200 rpm constantly... And also, sometimes when i shift at 3000-3500 rpm with the a/c on the car sounds different, like some sort of r/c car or a ferrari (cant really explain it, but sounds weird) I have figured its the belt (but which one, im no mechanic)... but i dont know, any suggestions.
I may record a vid of that later and i guess post it in a separate thread... if this does not get answered...
by the way guys i have one more concern, its with my A/C i guess. I dont know how to explain this but here goes:
When i use my a/c in the car and the speed is at 3 or 4 (A/c that is), the car starts shaking, and while idling, RPMs are climbing and dropping by maybe 200 rpm constantly... And also, sometimes when i shift at 3000-3500 rpm with the a/c on the car sounds different, like some sort of r/c car or a ferrari (cant really explain it, but sounds weird) I have figured its the belt (but which one, im no mechanic)... but i dont know, any suggestions.
I may record a vid of that later and i guess post it in a separate thread... if this does not get answered...
When i use my a/c in the car and the speed is at 3 or 4 (A/c that is), the car starts shaking, and while idling, RPMs are climbing and dropping by maybe 200 rpm constantly... And also, sometimes when i shift at 3000-3500 rpm with the a/c on the car sounds different, like some sort of r/c car or a ferrari (cant really explain it, but sounds weird) I have figured its the belt (but which one, im no mechanic)... but i dont know, any suggestions.
I may record a vid of that later and i guess post it in a separate thread... if this does not get answered...
1. is probably a misfire which also is indicated by your claim of power being lacking
2. your compressor/clutch may be going out which would explain the noise.
it is also possible, but not that probable that your compressor clutch is failing and not releasing like it should which would cause a power drain, and a wierd sound as well. with the motor running, check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging/disengaging with both the A/C(or defroster) on and off.
well, wasnt able to record the a/c sound problem... i guess i would have to drive it for a long time in a hot weather... thats when it usually starts happening...
but i did record a video 55-110, and omg it took me 25 seconds!!!!! started from 3rd at 4000 rpm (offcourse the run was done in a private road
) I would have to post it up on youtube later...
now i know this is waaaaaay tooo slow for a maxima with m/t... i nearly fell asleep at the wheel. Seriously, i think it needs a major *** tune up
Clutch was not slipping during the run, even with me flooring it, the RPMs climbed way too slow, not like in my other car...
but i did record a video 55-110, and omg it took me 25 seconds!!!!! started from 3rd at 4000 rpm (offcourse the run was done in a private road
) I would have to post it up on youtube later... now i know this is waaaaaay tooo slow for a maxima with m/t... i nearly fell asleep at the wheel. Seriously, i think it needs a major *** tune up
Clutch was not slipping during the run, even with me flooring it, the RPMs climbed way too slow, not like in my other car...
Last edited by 19max95; Sep 6, 2008 at 01:29 AM.
sounds like 2 issues to me.
1. is probably a misfire which also is indicated by your claim of power being lacking
2. your compressor/clutch may be going out which would explain the noise.
it is also possible, but not that probable that your compressor clutch is failing and not releasing like it should which would cause a power drain, and a wierd sound as well. with the motor running, check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging/disengaging with both the A/C(or defroster) on and off.
1. is probably a misfire which also is indicated by your claim of power being lacking
2. your compressor/clutch may be going out which would explain the noise.
it is also possible, but not that probable that your compressor clutch is failing and not releasing like it should which would cause a power drain, and a wierd sound as well. with the motor running, check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging/disengaging with both the A/C(or defroster) on and off.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,612
From: Lowell/Boston, MA
Jesus this is like the most helpful topic I have ever seen anyone give someone here on .org... Most people (at least with the old management) were like. REFER TO STICKEYS and then BAM locked. lol This thread is like triving with info and really, prob easier then a sticky. lol.. So we should sticky this too. lol jk
Also, some things to add.
Fuel filter. Change it to the Gen 2 300zx TT fuel filter. I guess it will last longer and in the long run give better flow when it starts to get real dirty. I have yet and completly doubt to see any performence gains out of this(mainly because our cars have a set amount of Fuel pressure from the pump, A&R mix from the ECU and injectors etc... that stay the same. Like I said, I think why people do it, is because it will flow nice for a long time and it is a bigger filter and pretty much the same price.
Radiator fluid would be a thing to do, if someone has not mention it.
Also, Change your Steering fluid, when that stuff gets really bad or low your pump will need to pump a little more power to pressure up those lines for the turns and in return can affect gas mileage. Just keep that in mind.
Check your belts on ur alty, and see if that is giving a nice good charge and see if the batteries life is good, Cause when that battery is dying. Again, more work for the Altly=more RPM=Effected Gas mileage. A lot of people overlook this and don't understand that it can be effected. Just like how 100 extra lbs of extra weight added to ur car in cargo can take off 1-mpg. (I have heard about this in a report, not sure if it is true)
Well thats all I can think of that no one has really mentioned. So good luck. Hope this helps.
Also, some things to add.
Fuel filter. Change it to the Gen 2 300zx TT fuel filter. I guess it will last longer and in the long run give better flow when it starts to get real dirty. I have yet and completly doubt to see any performence gains out of this(mainly because our cars have a set amount of Fuel pressure from the pump, A&R mix from the ECU and injectors etc... that stay the same. Like I said, I think why people do it, is because it will flow nice for a long time and it is a bigger filter and pretty much the same price.
Radiator fluid would be a thing to do, if someone has not mention it.
Also, Change your Steering fluid, when that stuff gets really bad or low your pump will need to pump a little more power to pressure up those lines for the turns and in return can affect gas mileage. Just keep that in mind.
Check your belts on ur alty, and see if that is giving a nice good charge and see if the batteries life is good, Cause when that battery is dying. Again, more work for the Altly=more RPM=Effected Gas mileage. A lot of people overlook this and don't understand that it can be effected. Just like how 100 extra lbs of extra weight added to ur car in cargo can take off 1-mpg. (I have heard about this in a report, not sure if it is true)
Well thats all I can think of that no one has really mentioned. So good luck. Hope this helps.
well, wasnt able to record the a/c sound problem... i guess i would have to drive it for a long time in a hot weather... thats when it usually starts happening...
but i did record a video 55-110, and omg it took me 25 seconds!!!!! started from 3rd at 4000 rpm (offcourse the run was done in a private road) I would have to post it up on youtube later...
now i know this is waaaaaay tooo slow for a maxima with m/t... i nearly fell asleep at the wheel. Seriously, i think it needs a major *** tune up
Clutch was not slipping during the run, even with me flooring it, the RPMs climbed way too slow, not like in my other car...
but i did record a video 55-110, and omg it took me 25 seconds!!!!! started from 3rd at 4000 rpm (offcourse the run was done in a private road
) I would have to post it up on youtube later... now i know this is waaaaaay tooo slow for a maxima with m/t... i nearly fell asleep at the wheel. Seriously, i think it needs a major *** tune up
Clutch was not slipping during the run, even with me flooring it, the RPMs climbed way too slow, not like in my other car...
if you could get a video of you reving it up a few times it might help.
Alright, here are the 2 videos:
1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmb3yPMTvC0 >>>> weird noise, probably some sort of belt
2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJH-JwWPSwg >>>> 55-110, and check engine light is there because i was once installing CAI and removed that sensor which is in the lid... i just got to reset it
let me know what ya guys think....
1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmb3yPMTvC0 >>>> weird noise, probably some sort of belt
2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJH-JwWPSwg >>>> 55-110, and check engine light is there because i was once installing CAI and removed that sensor which is in the lid... i just got to reset it
let me know what ya guys think....