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clogged EVAP system

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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #1  
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clogged EVAP system

I was throwing code 0111 so i checked my EVAP system and there was a crap load of black sediment in all the tubes/canisters/solenoids. anyone know whats causing this?
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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Not to jack your thread, but if anyone can explain what effect a malfunctioning evap system has on the car's performance, it would be greatly appreciated.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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i dont think it affects performance, just gas milage.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 04:11 PM
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well found my answer after doing some searching. looks like i need to replace to EVAP canister.

if anyone knows of anything else that might be wrong let me know. found my answers in these threads:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...el-1008-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rol-valve.html
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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just an update for anyone who cares.

so the code came back on almost immediately. checked the EVAP lines and they were clogged up pretty badly again.

so this time i took off the EVAP canister and turns out there were tons of charcoal bits in there. I mean my lines were clogged solid but there was easily 20 times more charcoal bits in my canister than there was in my clogged lines. So i spent 15 minutes dumping out all the charcoal until i couldnt hear anymore inside and hooked everything back up. Ive driven 2 full tanks now with no code and I am getting much better gas milage.

ordered a new canister and will be replacing it as soon as it gets in. anyone know what causes the charcoal to break down like that? were these bits getting inside my engine? One of the evap lines goes straight into the intake manifold.

Also if you are cleaning out ur evap lines make sure to take appart the purge control solenoid cuz there will be a crap load of charcoal in there. Also clean out the purge control canister until you cant hear anything when u shake it.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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I think Nissan has a bulletin on this exact issue...
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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I had this problem at around 65k....spent hours trying to clean and monkey with the purge valve. I ended up paying the dealership around $400--on the plus side, the ses lamp never came back in over 100k.

The symptom was long cranks before starting once the motor was warm. Cold starts were ok. Now it would be an automatic fail as well at the state inspection.
Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by blazingchimp
just an update for anyone who cares.

so the code came back on almost immediately. checked the EVAP lines and they were clogged up pretty badly again.

so this time i took off the EVAP canister and turns out there were tons of charcoal bits in there. I mean my lines were clogged solid but there was easily 20 times more charcoal bits in my canister than there was in my clogged lines. So i spent 15 minutes dumping out all the charcoal until i couldnt hear anymore inside and hooked everything back up. Ive driven 2 full tanks now with no code and I am getting much better gas milage.

ordered a new canister and will be replacing it as soon as it gets in. anyone know what causes the charcoal to break down like that? were these bits getting inside my engine? One of the evap lines goes straight into the intake manifold.

Also if you are cleaning out ur evap lines make sure to take appart the purge control solenoid cuz there will be a crap load of charcoal in there. Also clean out the purge control canister until you cant hear anything when u shake it.
thats a great idea to just take out all the bits are inside the canister. i just wonder how less charcoal in the canister will effect how the whole evap systme works or if it will harm anything else within the system or the car.

when i took my valve off it was completely full of little pieces and some even fell out of the canister. the valve was completely stuck close so i sprayed a bunch of wd40 in there and let it sit. now the plunger in the valve goes up and down easily.

you can buy a new canister from autozone, they are $54.99 or so and it is a special order part. should only take 1 to 2 days to get to the store.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...C4149/image/2/

i am going to shake out all the loose bits in mine before i have to get a replacement.

how did you clean out your lines? i feel like i should replace all vacuum lines but im not exactly sure the width of the fuel ones. did you run compressed air through them?
Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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my bad bumped a 2 year old thread! but there's a few of us with this problem!
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