So I finally got the 95 ecu and it works fine. The questions I have are about the stuff from the EVAP system. Do I have to remove all the stuff that the 95 ECU doesn't need. Do I need to reroute any vacuum lines? I guess the biggest question is about the one valve that sits on top of the IM. I know that the 95' dont have it.
What should I do?
p.s. the reason for the ecu swap is because I found out that the engine in my 96 is actually a 95 one and my cel was constantly on because of that. whoever swapped them put half of the stuff from 96 and the other half from 95. I tried the 95 ecu already and the cel is finally off (after a year of me having the car with it always on).

 

Likely the '95 ECU isn't giving you a CEL is that it is very lax in regards to emissions specs. I have absolutely no emissions related equipment functioning on my car, and no codes.

I believe only the fed spec '95s don't have the EVAP valve on the UIM. Either way, if it's working and you have no error codes, why do you feel the need to change things up?

 

Its not that I want to change things. I wasn't sure if I need to take anything out so that the rest of the stuff will work the way its supposed to. Plus if I can sell some of the stuff I don't need I can get some money back to break even with the ECU purchase and even have some profit.

 

So I was thinking to take the two hoses off of the Ecap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve and connect them together because I don't think it works any more. I think it actually might be blocking off the system right now.
Mostly I am concerned about MPG, and I know that the evap system can affect that.

 

any ideas anyone?

 

Why do you think it doesn't work anymore? Why do you think it's 'blocking off the system'?

Have you actually checked your fuel mileage to see whether or not it was affected?

Right now it looks like you want to change things up for the sole purpose of doing so, with no symptoms or known goals.

 

1. I am assuming that it doesn't work because the 95's don't have it on there. So if the computer does not control this valve it is just sitting there (closed) and that is blocking the whole system.
2. I haven't checked my mileage yet because I just swapped the ECU two days ago.
3. As I told you earlier, I wouldn't mind taking off what I can and selling it so that I can get some money in. After all I am just a poor college student with a part-time job.

 

I was going to swap a manual 96+ ECU into my 95 but I saw the wiring was a little different for like the crank position sensor for example...:-/ I dont want to hi-jack but...at the same time I kinda do.

 

I got confused a little here. Are you putting a 95 ecu in a 96+ or a 96+ ecu into a 95?

 

the opposite of what your doing basically. Trying to put a 96-98 into my 95. The wiring only appears to be specific to the 95 and 99 really...

 

I see.

So no one knows if that valve works or not? Does anyone know how to check in the ECU sends signal to it? I know how to check if the valve itself is in order but not how to see if the ECU controls it.

 

do you have a FSM?

 

I have some parts of few. I have some for 95, 96, and 98 I think. Why?

 

the FSM usually tells you how to check almost everything. phatg20.net has them in full.

 

Only problem with phatg20 is that you need to download all ~50 MB of each year's FSM, and you have a download limit.

http://boredmder.com/FSM/

 

EC-242 goes over all of the checks for function and control.

 

thanks

 

today I ran into another problem that I have had before but this time seemed to be worse. I have done all I can to figure it out and I cant. So there is no CEL or anything. the problem is only at idle and mostly when I stop at a light or a stop (holding the brake in D). The car starts surging pretty bad. I have changed all of the filters, plugs, cleaned TB, cleaned MAF, cleaned IACV, checked the resistance on the front 3 injectors and they seem fine and still nothing. Tonight as I was driving to work the car was shaking more than usual and it started surging real bad. After I changed the plugs the problem almost disappeared but now its back and seems even worse.

I don't want to take the IM plenum off to check the other injectors so is there another way of checking them? I have narrowed it down to a leaking injector or something of the sort.

 

please, I need help with this. I am out of ideas and can't afford to go to any shops.

 

Have you tested your coils?

 

man I hate coil problems. All intermittent and ****. My car used to have a stutter at idle and I cringed everytime I felt it. I still feel like its about to come back on the new motor sometimes.

 

I kinda checked them when I replaced the plugs. The thing is that it doesn't really shake when its in N or P. It only does it in R and D at a complete stop. Then when I start again it hesitates until it reaches 2k RPM. I tried unplugging some of the coils as the engine was running and there was a difference then (the car was in P or N). If there is anything else let me know. I am not very sure how else to check the coils. Also I thought that the CEL will light up if there was a problem with them?

 

It doesn't feel rough in neutral or park because there's no load on the engine.

Bad coils won't necessarily throw a code. Search for the howto, it shows how to check them all with a multimeter.

 

Thats new to me. I will check first chance I get.

 

Change your KS and reset the codes and you will be fine.

 

I don't think my problems come from the KS

 

my 95 had a bad coil and never threw a code, same with the maf. maybe its a 95 thing. i have unplugged indivdual coils with the car running and never once got a code. try to have someone help you and unplug one coil at a time with the car running and see what changes. if there is no change you found the dead cylinder and then need to determine if its the coil or injector. since you would be doing this in gear make sure to do it safely, e-brake, wheel chocks etc. it doesnt sound like an injector, possably a coil but also it could be the maf is going bad.

 

So here is what I did today. I tested all my coils the way it says in the FSM. All of them were showing resistance. There was on top and one on the bottom that were showing a little different than the others. So I went out to the salvage yard and picked up 5 coil packs off of a 95 there, all of them Hanshin, which I also tested. I got the 3 front ones and 2 for the back. I swapped all of the front ones and so far only one of the back ones. After I swapped the front the car was running much smoother and it picked up better (I actually do have a bad KS but no time to change it; I even have 2 good KSes sitting around ready to go in the car). Even with that done it was still missing a bit but not much and the RPM didn't seem to go up and down like before. I consider it half way done When I get a little time again I will swap one more of the top coils and see what happens.
I was thinking that if it really is the coils that I should probably consider getting brand new ones. Where should I look when I get some more money?

Now this thing with the MAF. How exactly do I check it? When I had the 96 computer in, couple of times I intentionally unplugged the MAF and the car ran horribly and it threw a code. So I doubt that it's the MAF since I know what it feels like to have it bad.

THANKS A BUNCH FOR THE HELP GUYS!!! you are saving a poor student from going into too much debt.

 

you have a bad KS yet your going to look to solve your problem elsewhere?

 

How the hell is the KS making my car miss at idle speeds? It is making it lag off the line, but I am pretty damn sure it aint making it miss and shake.

 

We are talking about a sensor that has an effect the engine TIMING and you are going to question whether it is giving you drive-ability problems? It's just logic...important sensor is bad, car runs weird, replace the sensor. And then if it still acts weird you move along.

 

OK. I know it affects the TIMING. Thats why I mentioned in one of my earlier posts that that's one reason for my pick-up problems. Also if the KS was that important Nissan would have made the CEL come on when problem occurs.
Again its logical (at least for me). As I said I have 2 KSes waiting to be put in. The one is Nissan OEM and the other is an eBay one.
I wish I had more time to work on it and fix it faster because it's almost an abomination to have a maxima run poorly.

 

sorry dude but it takes less time to replace your KS then the coils. just get your ratchet out and scrape you knuckles. KS ****ed up my car, and I think my ecu goin into dog mode all the time had other effects as well.

 

dog mode??? would that be safe mode???
So I had a few mins and did some more diagnostics. I swapped one more coil and.... well nothing seemed to change really. I, then, proceeded to do some more testing. I was alone so what I did was start the car and while in N I would go out and unplug a coil at a time then go back in the see how it revs up and how it acts in gear. I did that with all of the coils and with everyone I could feel/hear the difference in engine speed before even going in. All of them seemed to test out the same. Only thing that worries me is that There was one coil that was a little moist when I pulled it out. could that be just from me not tightening the plug under it enough, or is it bad seal. When I changed the plugs couple of months ago all of the coils were dry as they are supposed to be.
Also I took apart the air filter cover and all and sprayed my MAF again just in case.

Now the question that I got from doing all that. As I was unplugging the coils the CEL never came on. Neither it did when I unplugged the MAF as the car was running. The engine started acting up right away when I unplugged each part but the CEL never came on. After I was done I checked for codes and there was 3 of them. One was. of course, my KS; another was the MAF code, and the third one was some 0201 which in the sticky says its like a general miss fire code. Even when I had 2 coils unplugged at ones the CEL didn't come on or flash???

 

I went to work tonight, and on the way there the car was running just fine. On the way back I could feel very, very little roughness at lights and stops. Now that I have swapped the coils, and nothing happened until I sprayed the MAF I am thinking it's it that could be bad. I guy told me that these MAFs go bad and when you get a new one the ECU need some kind of re-programming. Is that true? I could go out to the salvage yard and get the MAF of the car that I got the ECU from so that I know they have worked together fine.
What say ye about that?

 

well you already know what I'm going to say. REPLACE THE GOD DAMN KNOCK SENSOR. Seriously, it takes 20 minutes at most, and then when it solves you problem you wont have to keep hunting and guessing in other places for it.

the ecu doesnt need to be "reprogrammed" for a new maf....I put another maf in my car and it worked flawlessly.

 

THOU SHALL NOT USE THE NAME OF THE LORD IN VAIN!!!

I will replace it, I promise!

 

KS CHANGED!!!
lets see who was right, and who was wrong about my issues.

 

whats that you say? all of your problems are solved and you gained 80 horsepower?

 

well..... actually I gained 190 horse
I have to drive it for a bit to see what it does. If I remember right it will take up to 100 miles until the ECU relearns and sets up in the optimal settings