air leaking out of MAFS?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,113
From: Louisiana
air leaking out of MAFS?
The part from the SC piping to the MAFS, where the 4 screws go. I thought I might not tighten the screws enough. However, after retightening the screws, there was still air leak. This can't be normal, can it? Air seem to seeping out where the SC piping meets the MAFS. I don't know if there is normal or not. It doesn't seem to have any affect my car from what I can tell. Any ideas?
Did you remember to keep the factory 'o-ring'? it is suppose to seal the junction...
If you're still getting a leak... remove the MAF and check if it is flat by putting the mating surface on something flat like glass. You could you some silicon too but be careful not to use too much.
If you're still getting a leak... remove the MAF and check if it is flat by putting the mating surface on something flat like glass. You could you some silicon too but be careful not to use too much.
What Chunger said and also don't torque your MAFS bolts more then like 12 lb's, the MAFS is made of plastic and it will crack if you over tighten the bolts. Theres a big warning in the SC instructions about this.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,113
From: Louisiana
Originally posted by Chunger
Did you remember to keep the factory 'o-ring'? it is suppose to seal the junction...
If you're still getting a leak... remove the MAF and check if it is flat by putting the mating surface on something flat like glass. You could you some silicon too but be careful not to use too much.
Did you remember to keep the factory 'o-ring'? it is suppose to seal the junction...
If you're still getting a leak... remove the MAF and check if it is flat by putting the mating surface on something flat like glass. You could you some silicon too but be careful not to use too much.
I think the factory o-ring is still there. I have to check it out tomorrow.
Emax: thanks for the reminder. Yeah, I was wondering would it be bad to tighten the screws too much. I better use a torque wrench and torque the screws to the proper setting tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,113
From: Louisiana
This a pic I just took of the MAFS. Is the o-ring still there? It seem like it's missing.
http://cumalot.homestead.com/files/Dcp_0099.jpg
How much would it cost to get a new MAFS? My car stalled once more today. Could it because of a faulty MAFS?
http://cumalot.homestead.com/files/Dcp_0099.jpg
How much would it cost to get a new MAFS? My car stalled once more today. Could it because of a faulty MAFS?
It's hard to see... The O ring material is square itself and sit into the groove around the opening.. you should be able to pull it out of the groove.
As for your stalling... you have a vacuum/boost gauge, right? What is the vacuum at idle? is it constant or low?
As for your stalling... you have a vacuum/boost gauge, right? What is the vacuum at idle? is it constant or low?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,113
From: Louisiana
Originally posted by Chunger
It's hard to see... The O ring material is square itself and sit into the groove around the opening.. you should be able to pull it out of the groove.
As for your stalling... you have a vacuum/boost gauge, right? What is the vacuum at idle? is it constant or low?
It's hard to see... The O ring material is square itself and sit into the groove around the opening.. you should be able to pull it out of the groove.
As for your stalling... you have a vacuum/boost gauge, right? What is the vacuum at idle? is it constant or low?
The vacuum is pretty constant, around the 20 mark.
So the o-ring is on the outer edges, where the holes for screws sit? If that's the case, there's nothing there I could pull out. Also, I just discovered that there is a crack near one of the screw holes.
Originally posted by Cumalot
The vacuum is pretty constant, around the 20 mark.
So the o-ring is on the outer edges, where the holes for screws sit? If that's the case, there's nothing there I could pull out. Also, I just discovered that there is a crack near one of the screw holes.
The vacuum is pretty constant, around the 20 mark.
So the o-ring is on the outer edges, where the holes for screws sit? If that's the case, there's nothing there I could pull out. Also, I just discovered that there is a crack near one of the screw holes.
If you want to check your MAFS either try swapping it with a friend or use a volt meter and see if it is sending out the correct voltage or not.
Make sure it didnt fall off when you took it apart. If you cant find it, or it wasnt their, you can some RTV silicone around the groove and the crack and it should seal it up.
As far as the stalling goes, perhaps your idle is too low, try and raise it.
As far as the stalling goes, perhaps your idle is too low, try and raise it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,113
From: Louisiana
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Make sure it didnt fall off when you took it apart. If you cant find it, or it wasnt their, you can some RTV silicone around the groove and the crack and it should seal it up.
As far as the stalling goes, perhaps your idle is too low, try and raise it.
Make sure it didnt fall off when you took it apart. If you cant find it, or it wasnt their, you can some RTV silicone around the groove and the crack and it should seal it up.
As far as the stalling goes, perhaps your idle is too low, try and raise it.
I just put some silicon in the grooves, so that should solve the seal issue.
I don't think my idle is too low. It's around 650-700rpm mark.
I keep mine at 800, most folks with heavy mods keep it about that high, I think.
Delio had a stalling problem untill he raised his idle up.
So
Delio had a stalling problem untill he raised his idle up.
So

Originally posted by Cumalot
I just put some silicon in the grooves, so that should solve the seal issue.
I don't think my idle is too low. It's around 650-700rpm mark.
I just put some silicon in the grooves, so that should solve the seal issue.
I don't think my idle is too low. It's around 650-700rpm mark.
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