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Can a bad/clogged EGR cause stalling?

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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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Can a bad/clogged EGR cause stalling?

I've replaced everything that shows up, and cleaned the EGR tube but my car still seems to stall on red lights afters its warmed up.

I cleaned out the EGR tube and still am throwing the same code. I tried to remove the EGR assembly completely but the big pipe that connects it to the engine is completely baked on, so I'm hesitant to try as I'm not sure if it is causing my stalls.

Thanks in advance!
Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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Since you've cleaned the EGR and associated stuff, have you since checked your spark plugs? It's very well possible that a piece of carbon buildup has now lodged itself between in the tip of the spark plugs. I've actually seen this happen before.
Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Since you've cleaned the EGR and associated stuff, have you since checked your spark plugs? It's very well possible that a piece of carbon buildup has now lodged itself between in the tip of the spark plugs. I've actually seen this happen before.
Well, I wasnt able to clean the bigger tube going to the EGR, since its baked on. I checked my plugs about 10k miles ago and they looked great, would the carbon only effect the spark plug when the engine has warmed up?
Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by whitegold
Well, I wasnt able to clean the bigger tube going to the EGR, since its baked on. I checked my plugs about 10k miles ago and they looked great, would the carbon only effect the spark plug when the engine has warmed up?
You'll need to check them again now, now that you're done cleaning the EGR stuff. No, carbon will affect the sparkplugs in cold and warm conditions.
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 05:38 AM
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Whats your idle speed? Have you gone through a proper idle speed adjustment procedure by setting the default TB idle with the TPS disconnected? Have you cleaned the IACV and checked for proper operation?
Old Oct 31, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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/\+1 That's the next thing I was going to suggest, then maybe the MAF??
Old Nov 1, 2008 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Whats your idle speed? Have you gone through a proper idle speed adjustment procedure by setting the default TB idle with the TPS disconnected? Have you cleaned the IACV and checked for proper operation?
I put in a new IVAC, unfortunetly my tachometer tends to not work for months at a time, and shortly after installed the IVAC the tacho stopped working. It *sounds* like it is idling at 700-800 rpm
Old Nov 1, 2008 | 01:20 AM
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Have you checked the MAF. Does it have any sort of a rough idle? Start with the easiest, seeing as you had the EGR off, did you replace the EGR guide tube gasket, the one that goes to the manifold? If you didnt, you could potentially have a vacuum leak there. Check the plugs, its very possible a piece of carbon has loged itself in there.

Trace your steps, if the problem was there before, then it wasnt likely that it was something you just did. If you were having warm idleing issues before, i would definately check for vacuum leaks and the MAF. For the vacuum leaks, get a can of brake cleaner, and just spray it over any possible leak area..hoses, iacv, throttle body, any rubber lines, IM gaksets, egr guide tube, basically anything after the MAF. If you have any idle changes or irratic idle issues during the spraying, then that would likely indicate a vacuum leak. The reason why you may not notice it when its cold, is because of the fast idle cam..your idling at around 1100RPM cold, but warm you could potentially be down to the 550-750 range, a vacuum leak big enough can cause a rough idle and stalling!

Good Luck!
Old Nov 1, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by whitegold
I put in a new IVAC, unfortunetly my tachometer tends to not work for months at a time, and shortly after installed the IVAC the tacho stopped working. It *sounds* like it is idling at 700-800 rpm
That could be your problem right there. Your IACV is not set correctly.
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