trouble starting in the cold/wet
trouble starting in the cold/wet
i have to push the gas pedal to get it to start in the cold/wet. I'm not flooring, I just push it down to let the engine rev a bit, then after 30 secs or so I let it go and the idle goes to 1100 or so and the car is fine.
I'm thinking it's either the CTS or low on coolant (just thought of that as I m typing, I will check the level in the morning).
Anybody else have thoughts on it?
I'm thinking it's either the CTS or low on coolant (just thought of that as I m typing, I will check the level in the morning).
Anybody else have thoughts on it?
Get your^^ cel checked. As for the cold start, it happens to me too in cold times.Last 2 weeks florida was in the high 50's and gave me a lil prob. After it heated up back, i was good again.
i dont have a obd1 scanner, and ive heard that you can use a paper clip?? and you count the blinks and check the book, but i have the obd1 port and i know they make a scanner, but i cant find one at any parts store, napa doesnt even carry them. most shops dont. only nissan does but they want 98$ an hour and it takes 15 seconds to do but they will somehow make it take an hour lol. anyone know where i can buy a obd1?? or any locals i can meet up with??? im located in wallingford CT. Thanks
i dont have a obd1 scanner, and ive heard that you can use a paper clip?? and you count the blinks and check the book, but i have the obd1 port and i know they make a scanner, but i cant find one at any parts store, napa doesnt even carry them. most shops dont. only nissan does but they want 98$ an hour and it takes 15 seconds to do but they will somehow make it take an hour lol. anyone know where i can buy a obd1?? or any locals i can meet up with??? im located in wallingford CT. Thanks
1. Your max is OBDII.
2. You don't need a scanner or even a "paperclip" lol. A small screwdriver will suffice and you can check your codes for free....Read your owner's manual. If you don't have one, get one.
how do i have obdII my car is a early 95 model (3/95) and the port is clearly an obd1 port. my brother works at a parts store and they have obdII there and it doesnt fit and there is no other adapters... i do have an original owners manual that came with the car but i have not found any helpful info in there.
how do i have obdII my car is a early 95 model (3/95) and the port is clearly an obd1 port. my brother works at a parts store and they have obdII there and it doesnt fit and there is no other adapters... i do have an original owners manual that came with the car but i have not found any helpful info in there.
do a search on here and you will find the location.
check the wiring around your coil-packs. I had the same problem in my camry when it was wet out but it needed a new distributor cap which leads me to believe you may have an uncovered wire or a bad connection somewhere.
My issue was the same.
It was poor grounding of the starter.
Scan through this if you haven't read it yet --> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...verything.html
Someone mentioned KS, extremely unlikely this will have any co-relation to your problem
ECTS is a possiblity, cheap and easy to change around 15-20$ IIRC. As Im sure you know a failed ECTS doesn't throw a code.
It was poor grounding of the starter.
Scan through this if you haven't read it yet --> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...verything.html
Someone mentioned KS, extremely unlikely this will have any co-relation to your problem
ECTS is a possiblity, cheap and easy to change around 15-20$ IIRC. As Im sure you know a failed ECTS doesn't throw a code.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; Nov 18, 2008 at 04:57 PM.
My issue was the same.
It was poor grounding of the starter.
Scan through this if you haven't read it yet --> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...verything.html
It was poor grounding of the starter.
Scan through this if you haven't read it yet --> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...verything.html
Moisture, temperature (both of engine and ambient) etc. affect connections much more than people give credit I think.
For me my starter/engine was poorly grounded. When the temperature was warm and dry, or my engine was good and hot, the car would start fine.
Any moisture in the air or cold conditions would increase resistance enough to cause hard starting.
As soon as I removed the starter, cleaned mounting surfaces and installed a couple grounds, I never had the problem again.
Side Q to the OP: Why are you giving it throttle? Will the car start if you don't?
It's a common practice to hit the throttle on a hard start, mostly from old engine/car knowledge (carburated). However, this complicates diagnosis on the problem, the car should NOT require you to hit the throttle for it to start. If it does, there are other issues.
Side Q to the OP: Why are you giving it throttle? Will the car start if you don't?
It's a common practice to hit the throttle on a hard start, mostly from old engine/car knowledge (carburated). However, this complicates diagnosis on the problem, the car should NOT require you to hit the throttle for it to start. If it does, there are other issues.
second crank (a little throttle, not enough to shut off the injectors) it will start and rev up.
today I actually got it to start on the second try without throttle, but it bounced around a bit before settling to 1100rpm. I started it again about 30 mins later and it started first try, and idled at the expected 1500 rpm.
it really does not matter much anymore as I am getting rid of the car, I can't afford the gas mileage anymore.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14
From: Rockaway, NJ
Cold engine starts then stalls
I have an auto maxima and it starts up in cold weather and with in 5 seconds stalls out. I have to press the gas once its started and then heep it at about 1000 rpms for 20-30 seconds b4 i let off and the engine stays running. I know the issue is not the starter or battery becuase i just replaced both of them 2 months ago. I have a cold air intake on the car and i dont think that is the issue. Where does the problem lie?
I have an auto maxima and it starts up in cold weather and with in 5 seconds stalls out. I have to press the gas once its started and then heep it at about 1000 rpms for 20-30 seconds b4 i let off and the engine stays running. I know the issue is not the starter or battery becuase i just replaced both of them 2 months ago. I have a cold air intake on the car and i dont think that is the issue. Where does the problem lie?
first crank (no throttle) no start.
second crank (a little throttle, not enough to shut off the injectors) it will start and rev up.
today I actually got it to start on the second try without throttle, but it bounced around a bit before settling to 1100rpm. I started it again about 30 mins later and it started first try, and idled at the expected 1500 rpm.
it really does not matter much anymore as I am getting rid of the car, I can't afford the gas mileage anymore.
second crank (a little throttle, not enough to shut off the injectors) it will start and rev up.
today I actually got it to start on the second try without throttle, but it bounced around a bit before settling to 1100rpm. I started it again about 30 mins later and it started first try, and idled at the expected 1500 rpm.
it really does not matter much anymore as I am getting rid of the car, I can't afford the gas mileage anymore.
There are many things it could be, start with the ECTS, its cheap and easy, most part stores stock it.
Check all your connections as I stated earlier.
Hit us back when you reach a conclusion or after you're done that.
Hope that helps!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4
hey people new to the forum...i have a 97 gxe and actually have the same problem, well similar, my car will give a hard start when the engine is cold...however if it is cold out the car will take a few more cranks to start up...changed fuel filter, coolant temp sensor, and cleaned the mas air flow ne other suggestions....
I may put it in before I sell the car, maybe not 
Had the same exact problem with my '98 I-30T...Changed the ECTS, problem fixed...
As soon as coolant stated coming out I put the new one on, just a few ml. of coolant lost.
my buddy has a heated garage that i work in so it negated the freezing my fingers off factor.
I had 0 coolant come out when I got mine out. it was a bit of a pain to do since I didn't have a crows foot to use and was doing it with a wrench or 2.
I did it at the same time as doing my PS cooler bypass, and adjusting my belt tensioner and checking my brakes.
Dang car has fairly new brakes but they are Duracrap golds so it feels like crap. at least I know I don't need to swap pads yet. I'll let my parents do that, they are getting the car from me and I'm getting their POS in return.
Sunday morning we will see if the ECTS was my issue or not. I certainly hope it was
well I got ambitious and did it this morning.
my buddy has a heated garage that i work in so it negated the freezing my fingers off factor.
I had 0 coolant come out when I got mine out. it was a bit of a pain to do since I didn't have a crows foot to use and was doing it with a wrench or 2.
my buddy has a heated garage that i work in so it negated the freezing my fingers off factor.
I had 0 coolant come out when I got mine out. it was a bit of a pain to do since I didn't have a crows foot to use and was doing it with a wrench or 2.
I crank over just fine, it's getting the idle that is an issue.
It's not uncommon for the car to crank just fine, but not start simply due to poor starter/engine/tranny ground.
My car cranked NO problem, lack of ground just didnt allow the CPS and starter to actually get the engine running.
Many people have been confused by this, I was, but just cause it cranks fine, does NOT mean there is not a ground issue.
Thats not accurate.
It's not uncommon for the car to crank just fine, but not start simply due to poor starter/engine/tranny ground.
My car cranked NO problem, lack of ground just didnt allow the CPS and starter to actually get the engine running.
Many people have been confused by this, I was, but just cause it cranks fine, does NOT mean there is not a ground issue.
It's not uncommon for the car to crank just fine, but not start simply due to poor starter/engine/tranny ground.
My car cranked NO problem, lack of ground just didnt allow the CPS and starter to actually get the engine running.
Many people have been confused by this, I was, but just cause it cranks fine, does NOT mean there is not a ground issue.
I'm putting in a new battery tomorrow. I may add an engine ground while I am at it.
did you have a consistent cranking speed?
I am replacing the battery because the one in there is who knows how old and the corrosion on the positive side is major, plus my last I30 had a running issue that turned out to be a pooched battery. Besides a good battery is piece of mind that my parents won't get stuck somewhere (they are getting the car)
