Another security Q?
Another security Q?
Ok so i had been having problems starting my car and decided to add a ground to see if it would work. After hooking the battery back up, it would not start...no crank or anything. I went back through and checked my work, and found that i hooked the starter up wrong....fixed it, tried again, nothing. The security light on the dash blinks every half second with the ignition off, but when you turn it on, it does not blink. I do not have the keyless entry remote (wife "accidentally" threw it away), but the key is oem.
I searched for 5 hours here, google, and other places and tried all the things suggested--from unlocking the doors and trunk with the key, cycling the key, opening the trunk with the key, etc. I tried all that and left the battery unhooked for 2 hours, but still nothing worked.
Anybody ever had this problem or know how to fix it so i can start the car???
I searched for 5 hours here, google, and other places and tried all the things suggested--from unlocking the doors and trunk with the key, cycling the key, opening the trunk with the key, etc. I tried all that and left the battery unhooked for 2 hours, but still nothing worked.
Anybody ever had this problem or know how to fix it so i can start the car???
Ok so i had been having problems starting my car and decided to add a ground to see if it would work. After hooking the battery back up, it would not start...no crank or anything. I went back through and checked my work, and found that i hooked the starter up wrong....fixed it, tried again, nothing. The security light on the dash blinks every half second with the ignition off, but when you turn it on, it does not blink. I do not have the keyless entry remote (wife "accidentally" threw it away), but the key is oem.
I searched for 5 hours here, google, and other places and tried all the things suggested--from unlocking the doors and trunk with the key, cycling the key, opening the trunk with the key, etc. I tried all that and left the battery unhooked for 2 hours, but still nothing worked.
Anybody ever had this problem or know how to fix it so i can start the car???
I searched for 5 hours here, google, and other places and tried all the things suggested--from unlocking the doors and trunk with the key, cycling the key, opening the trunk with the key, etc. I tried all that and left the battery unhooked for 2 hours, but still nothing worked.
Anybody ever had this problem or know how to fix it so i can start the car???

When you say it doesn't blink, do you mean it stays off, or is constantly lit?
Opening the door or trunk with the key should disarm the system completely.
You said you had the starter hooked up incorrectly, how? Have you checked to see if you happened to damage the starter, or still have it hooked up incorrectly?
Opening the door or trunk with the key should disarm the system completely.
You said you had the starter hooked up incorrectly, how? Have you checked to see if you happened to damage the starter, or still have it hooked up incorrectly?
I tried the unlocking the doors/ trunk and it didn't work. With the starter i had forgot to hook up the positive wire cause it was cold and i was in a hurry to get it done.
When the key is not in the ignition, the security light flashes.....when i turn the key it goes off, no blinking or staying on.
i've checked fuses and they are ok.....any other ideas?
When the key is not in the ignition, the security light flashes.....when i turn the key it goes off, no blinking or staying on.
i've checked fuses and they are ok.....any other ideas?
bump....anybody, please? I went through and checked all fuses, relays, fusable links, etc. that could have anything to do with it and they all checked out good. I also pulled the codes cause i've had a CEL for a while, but been too lazy to check....got an 0401-intake air temp. sensor. Wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it right?
I'm charging the battery overnight and tomorow i'm gonna keep trying off the wall stuff and see what happens, and maybe make some phone calls.
If anybody has an idea of what i may try, let me know--i guess it's worth a shot.
thanks
I'm charging the battery overnight and tomorow i'm gonna keep trying off the wall stuff and see what happens, and maybe make some phone calls.
If anybody has an idea of what i may try, let me know--i guess it's worth a shot.
thanks
I can't explain all this now, it's almost midnight, but I 'll give you the same advice I gave another org member just a couple of days ago. Below are all the things that have to happen before your starter will crank. Somewhere in here lies the answer to your problem. Do your best to check all these things.
If the ignition switch is OK check the condition of 1) clutch interlock switch 2) clutch interlock relay 3) theft warning relay. You can remove the relays and inspect them if there is another relay of the same color/type you can try swapping them just to test. Sometimes just a bad connection at a relay can cause problems, look for corroded or burnt contacts. The clutch interlock switch, by the clutch pedal should move smoothly, you may try operating with you finger. Although I know lots of people add grounds. there are many possibilities for a no crank condition. It could be a faulty starter motor.
This is a list from the FSM of what needs to happen for you to get power to your starter motor.
Starting System Description M/T MODELS
For models with theft warning system
Power is supplied at all times
I through 30A fusible link (letter h , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through terminal 5 of the ignition switch
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 3 .
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 17 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 3 .
If the theft warning system is not triggered, power is supplied
I through theft warning relay terminal 4
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 1 .
When the clutch pedal is depressed, ground is supplied to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 through the clutch interlock switch and body grounds M13 , M73 and M111 .
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
from terminal 5 of the clutch interlock relay
to terminal 1 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the theft warning system is triggered, terminal 2 of the theft warning relay is grounded and power to the
clutch interlock relay is interrupted.
For models without theft warning system
Theft warning relay acts just as a path circuit between 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)] and
clutch interlock relay.
If the ignition switch is OK check the condition of 1) clutch interlock switch 2) clutch interlock relay 3) theft warning relay. You can remove the relays and inspect them if there is another relay of the same color/type you can try swapping them just to test. Sometimes just a bad connection at a relay can cause problems, look for corroded or burnt contacts. The clutch interlock switch, by the clutch pedal should move smoothly, you may try operating with you finger. Although I know lots of people add grounds. there are many possibilities for a no crank condition. It could be a faulty starter motor.
This is a list from the FSM of what needs to happen for you to get power to your starter motor.
Starting System Description M/T MODELS
For models with theft warning system
Power is supplied at all times
I through 30A fusible link (letter h , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through terminal 5 of the ignition switch
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 3 .
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 17 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 3 .
If the theft warning system is not triggered, power is supplied
I through theft warning relay terminal 4
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 1 .
When the clutch pedal is depressed, ground is supplied to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 through the clutch interlock switch and body grounds M13 , M73 and M111 .
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
from terminal 5 of the clutch interlock relay
to terminal 1 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the theft warning system is triggered, terminal 2 of the theft warning relay is grounded and power to the
clutch interlock relay is interrupted.
For models without theft warning system
Theft warning relay acts just as a path circuit between 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)] and
clutch interlock relay.
Last edited by Nopike; Nov 27, 2008 at 09:22 PM.
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Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi
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