So, I pulled what codes were stored in my computer and here is what they turned out to be:

0304 - Knock Sensor ( of course )
0401 - IAT Sensor ( just replaced )
0905 - Crank Position Sensor
1106 - AT 4th gear signal Fault (?)

Now, my tranny knocks when cold changing gears from like 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Could that trigger the knock sensor?
Would a knock sensor from my parts car be of any good or is it better to just buy new?
What does the crank position Sensor do? Is it not good to drive with it busted?

I've never even heard of the last code...but i'm assuming it's where my tranny is leaking and knocking. Don't worry I have a newer one on order. Should be here today or monday.

I got these code terms from the Haynes Manuel (awsome to have)

So, any idea how much time and money it may take to fix the KS and the CPS?

Thanks alot orger...I love this site and my maxima, so when she needs help, I can't just let it roll off my shoulders...

 

bump for input

 

I had the Knock and IAT codes after I replaced the knock I cleaned the IAT sensor and that took care of those codes.

I got the Knock sensor off ebay for $40 not sure how long it will last but I was tired of looking at the damn SES light and really didnt want to pay ~$120 for the sensor.

 

the IAT code is on cause one of the wires broke on it. So i replaced that. But i heard the KS was a beatch to replace

 

I used a 10mm socket with a ~10" extension and a universal joint.

It took me about 5 mins to take it out, about 10 mins to figure out how to undo the plug on the knock sensor (it has an odd metal clip that I have never seen before) and another 5 to put in the new sensor.

I am at work right now but I can get a couple of pics of the ratchet/socket set up if you want me to take a few pics.

Also I think I found the walk through of how I did the knock sensor on here...give me a few minutes let me see if I can find it again.

 

cool man, thanks

 

Your knock sensor is used to detect engine knock, not transmission. You can usually visually see if the knock sensor is bad, it is usually cracked, melted or damaged. However, you can test it with a multimeter to double check.

Fix your CPS and change your KS if you already haven't. The knocking you are describing from your transmission could be a lot of things, including the transmission mount.

 

yea, well the KS and CPS will have to wait till after Xmas. I do however have a new tranny on the way...should be here monday...get it put in tuesday. I guess i'll find out then if it is in the mount or not. PS, i have a leak in the tranny coming out of the seal...and it only knocks when its cold...when it's all warmed up it doesn't knock anymore

 

The KS will never trigger your SES light. The KS code is known as a ghost code and therefore doesn't trigger the light. So the cleaning of the IAT sensor is what fixed your light.

The KS may or may not be bad and the code could just be appearing as a result of a bad sensor elsewear. Fix the other sensor reset, drive. Check the codes a few days later even if there is no light. If KS code appears then fix KS

 

will do...thanks

 

The KS was definatly bad it was cracked.

 

sounds like my 95. codes said CPS and KS changed the CPS a few hours ago and no difference....the code didnt even go away for some reason. The car idles rough and has a very hard time starting when its warmed up.

 

i had the same problem a couple of weeks ago change the knock sensor and problem went away but good luck.

 

i also just remember that i change the 02 sensor but good luck.

 

Here are the pictures of the easy way to replace the knock sensor (not the correct way but it is the easiest the correct way would be to completely remove the upper and lower intake manifolds)

These pics were not from when I actually replaced the sensor but just a couple of quick shots to make it easier to explain.

Here are the tools you will need a ratchet with long extension this set up is a 6" and 3" together, and 12mm socket with a universal/swivel joint and a long screw driver (it will make sense later), you may also want a long magnet in case the bolt falls:


This job is alot easier if you remove the throttle body and intake piping which I did to clean my MAF and throttle body. You will also want to disconnect the negative from the battery.



The hardest part is getting the socket on the KS bolt as you really cant see what you are doing in there. Once you have the bolt all the way out pull the KS and hopefully bolt out from under the intake manifold, this is where the magnet comes in handy if you drop the bolt.

Disconnect the KS from the harness you will probably need another small screwdriver to disconnect the metal clip.

Connect the new KS to the harness and feed the wiring back under the IM.
To put the bolt back in put a piece of tape on the inside of the socket to hold the bolt, sticky side of tape on the socket not he bolt so you dont leave a piece of tape on the bolt, then feed everything back into place.

Now is when the long screwdriver comes into play. Use the screw driver to keep the KS from moving when you tighten the KS bolt, the KS will want to rotate when you tighten. It says in the FSM to tighten to 15ftlbs which is not much, I did not use a torque wrench to tighten because with the long extension the readings will not be accurate and I would have overtightened. I just tightened until it was snug then gave another maybe 1/4 turn.



This is the walkthrough that I used:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 good close ups of KS and harness he used a box wrench and somehow got his hand under the intake manifold.

Hope this helps, like I said before it does not take that long to do it is a bit frustrating trying to get the socket on the KS bolt and reinstalling the KS bolt.

Make sure you either clear the codes with a code reader or reset your ecu when you are finished.

 

Jack Bauer doesnt even pull codes, one commanding yell and the comes come willingly
I have no problem looking at my Ses light daily

 

lol...i see that all day long and it doesn't bother me in the least ...the CEL does tho...what does a CPS do anyway? does it rob you of power if it isn't working properly?

 

ses/cel same thing.. but CPS sensor... crank position sensor. Its important. If its bad I would change it asap. Test it with a multimeter.

 

I don't have a multimeter, but one of the codes i pulled was the CPS so i guess I should change that out, along with the KS. I'm going to have to wait till after Xmas tho cause money around this time of year is tight.

 

i replaced the crank position sensor..the one on the bell housing, and now it starts up MUCH better. I also had a bad bearing in my idler pully or my tensioner pully not sure. However, when i replaced my rad, one of the tranny hoses were not fully on and tight and it slipped off and tranny fluid went everywhere...incl all over those pullys. The squeeling went away..lol...but the car is still pretty sluggish (bad KS) gotta fix that soon.