Hellspawn

My 97 Se has about 119k on it. No outstanding problems until last week. Had the heat on and all of a suddenit added defroster vents like someone had pushed the MODE button on the HVAC controls. (it is a auto climate control unit).

I thought that odd but something happened and I forgot about it.

Yesterday I locked my car with the remote, the hazards flashed and when I came back out, the remote would not work. I finally opened the door with the key and thought that I needed a new remote battery. I got to my next destination and locked it with the remote (working again), and when I came back out it woulnd't work again.

This morning the remote will not unlock the car , trunk pop or panic. Nothing.

I've confirmed that the remote is working by programming it to another 97 GLE. Remote is out of the picture.

I get to the point in programming on MY car and when I hit a button on the remote the hazards never flash, the procedure will not complete.

Obviously I know how to program or I could not have programmed it to the other 97 GLE.

Just read up a bit more on here, perhaps I'm seeing the multi-remote unit that is located in the trunk going bad?

Am I looking at the BCM being bad in some respect? I did check, all the windows , sunroof, key-turn twice in the lock unlocks all doors. That all works.

Any thoughts would be great.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I would not rule out the remote completely. It may have an intermittent problem meaning that it only fails occasionally. My remote failed a week ago when I tried to unlock my car, it was probably due to a strong signal nearby that was interferring with the remotes signal. I realize your problem happened in two separate locations.

Probably the only way you will be able to deternine if it's the BCM or the remote unit is to change them out with another one. That's fine if you happen to have access to a spare.

Although a BCM or remote unit can fail it's usually the mechanical portion of a circuit that fails. This includes the remote and the wiring between the BCM and remote unit.

Hellspawn

Thanks for the reply and ideas.

In the meantime since I wrote the post, I've tried the following on my car:

1. working remote from a 97 GLE (did not work on my car, went into the programming procedure and where it should flash the hazards after a button press the car did not respond)
2. Took my remote to the 97 GLE, programmed it and it worked fine.

3. Swapped out the brown relay box by the trunk latch with the other car, no change
4. Swapped out the silver 'keyless' box on the right rear inside trunk, behind the liner, no change. (97 GLE worked fine with both swapped parts, telling me most likely those 2 are good). I installed them back on my car.



I used the remote from my car on the 97 GLE for several hours, purposely working it hard, worked fine. Tried to put it back on my car, no-go.

So..... brown relay OK, silver box OK, remote apparently OK.

Not sure where to go from here, other than the BCM, any other thoughts?

Just remembered, about 6 months ago I remember I opened my drivers door (that was not locked) and the alarm started going off until I hit a key on my remote. Alarm was not armed.

How alike would a BCM be on a 97 Maxima, with one being an SE and other GLE and pretty much identical? sunroof, leather, same radio, auto climate..

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I believe there are only two types of BCM, with remote or without so you should be OK swapping them.

Hellspawn

Would swapping BCM units be your next thought if it were your problem?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's worth a shot, with intermittent keyless issues.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I've never swapped a BCM but my understanding is that it is relatively easy. As long as you have one available it's worth a try. You might try the remote module first I think it's easier to get at and swap.

I believe there is a reprogramming/reset method for the BCM and remote, you probably have already done that. If not try that also.

There are a number of possible causes to your problem (remote, BCM, remote module, wiring/ faulty connection ) sometimes you just have to eliminate one item at a time, so try the easy stuff first.

Hellspawn

Just need a few hours or whatever it takes to swap the BCM, since I've swapped the LCU05 and silver box in the trunk and the remote. I'm not looking forward to doing it in these 25f days.. But have to find out if it's the BCM now..

thanks and I'll try to check back in in the next week or so.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

BCM should take under an hour, for testing then putting both cars back together.

Hellspawn

Yea it should, ya don't know me. haha - dropped screw here or there in somewhere I can't find, I resigned myself to the stealer for the knock sensor on the GLE, but oddly enough the SE hasn't needed one yet.

I have the haynes and an electronic version of the FSM (if I can find it around here..).

thanks!

(I generally take the estimate then take it times 3.) Although I did all 4 struts in 8hrs, not sure how that compares to some on here, but I was pretty proud of myself.

Hellspawn

ok to clear up, here is what I've tried on my 97 SE from our 97 GLE. The GLE keyless is working fine so I have confidence that the parts from it put on the SE are truly 'OK'.

1. LCU05 brown relay in trunk.
2. Silver 'keyless' box near power antenna inside trunk
3. multi-function power window/lock switch assembly on driver door.
4. Pulled battery cable (neg.) for 30 minutes
5. Pulled fuse for BCM in location 56 as per FSM to reset.
6. Tried known working remote from GLE, and conversely tried SE remote on GLE - works fine.
7. Tried getting the remote as close to the back end of the car as possible to make sure it isn't an antenna problem
8. Checked that all 4 door switches are working correctly and trunk/hood by opening after the alarm is armed and the alarm sounds. Key in door lock shuts it off as it should.

The ONLY thing I have not yet done due to time/weather constraints is pull the BCM from the GLE and try it in my SE.

I'm schooled on the correct programming procedure too, so I'm ok there too.

This just all started in about 3-4 hours intermittently then no response since then.

Is the BCM the only other thing that would be involved at this point since I've basically swapped all the other parts and checked the doors, windows, alarm, etc?

thanks for any advice no matter how small.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You need to try the BCM but if that does not help the ignition switch is a remote possibility. I have not had time to really learn the system but that is what I find from a quick look through the FSM.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Mine hasnt worked for years now so I just used to it. If switching the BCM works then I'll be picking one up from the junkyard soon.

Hellspawn

Interesting finding I must say.. Although I'm still not sure what is wrong exactly.

I managed to get the car in programming mode from out (reach in and cycle the key), took the remote to the back window, pressed it agains the glass and about 50% of the time a button is pressed the car responds. I did manage to get the remote associated with the car.

I CAN lock and unlock if it is held against the upper portion of the glass right over the very top wires (which I believe are a combo of keyless and FM diversity).

It is NOT the BCM, brown relay or keyless module, or even wiring from the keyless module in the trunk to the BCM.

What the heck has happened? I know my remote has good enough range as when I programmed it on the GLE I was in the driver's seat, and did not have to get on the back window to get it to make contact.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Interesting.. I'll try this with the one of the remotes I have when I get home.

Hellspawn

I really was NOT looking forward to tearing into two maxs for a bcm swapout for testing. I'm pretty sure at this point I don't need to.

Time to dive into the FSM I think.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Maybe your window antenna or it's connection to the LCU05 control unit is broken. I believe you can just connect a long wire to the control unit to act as an antenna to test it.

Hellspawn

Well, the wife came up with an idea that *may* have fixed this... I would never hear the end of it..

In a duffle bag in the trunk was a thought-to-be dead remote transmitter for temperature for the atomic clocks that everyone seems to have now. It has been in the trunk for at least a year. It was moved around on Sunday and just shortly thereafter this problem started. I had her take the transmitter and walk about 30 ft from the car, remote worked fine on the SE.

It has worked fine all evening now.

I did notice on the transmitter, '433mhz operation'.

could it be? I have no idea why all of a sudden after moving it now the keyless works again.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Nopike;6794674] My remote failed a week ago when I tried to unlock my car, it was probably due to a strong signal nearby that was interferring with the remotes signal. I realize your problem happened in two separate locations. QUOTE]

See my post #2

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well seeing as BCM's come in two variates: With Keyless and Without Keyless...I'd say it could definitely be your BCM.

Contact Maxima_Joe. I got mine from him just last week. My dome light wouldn't work on auto (doors open = no light) and my key ring light wouldn't work. I replaced the BCM and all was fine.

Hellspawn

[QUOTE=Nopike;6801190]agreed kind Sir.

Well the keyless is still working fine I'm really thinking that transmitter was it. I never thought about it as it was in a duffel bag.

If that ended up being it, many thanks for your thoughts.

badercrew

hi everyone,
i am having the same problem with my 98 se. it was just fine until i "played" with the wiring to the antenna to make it work. unfortunatly shortly after the antenna still doesnt work but my clock is know not working as well as my keyless remote and my ac turns off and reset everytime i turn off the car. what happened and how can i fix it ? the fuse seems ok. help please thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The clock has nothing to do with the BCM, it's on its own circuit.

Check the 'Electrical Parts' fuse, 7.5a in the upper right of the fuse box. That powers the clock, the KAM for the auto climate control, and the keyless system (among other things). It's the only link between all 3 parts that would explain your problem.

badercrew

thanks for the help i will post the results as soon as i check.....again

badercrew

it turned out to be that fuse after all....dont know how i missed it when i checked it with the test light....guess i didnt check both sides of the fuse....thanks again