Steering Rack Bushings
01-09-2009, 02:13 PM
#4
Example pic from AA's site:
07-15-2015, 06:47 PM
#5
Hey guys,
I came across this post when I was pre-planning to tackle my mangled driver side bushing. So, just wanted to share my experience for people who looking to replace theirs. My passenger side bushing could probably be changed too, but I don't feel like dropping the Y and risking one of the rusted studs snapping.
As pmohr said, the bushing is split so you can wrap it around without removing the entire rack.
For the driver side, jack the car up as high as possible and secure with jack stands. Both bracket bolts + the nut (all 19mm) can be removed from underneath the car. I believe some have suggested removing the air box and going from the top, but it was too far a reach for me. When looking at the bracket, the top two bolts are side by side. Use a deep impact socket for the one on the left and a regular socket for the one on the right.
You'll need a cheater pipe to go over your 1/2' drive ratchet to get the torque to remove those bolts (~70 ft/lbs).
Once the bracket is removed, use a pry bar between the subframe and the rack to push the rack a little towards the front of the car. This will give you enough clearance for the bracket to clear the lower stud and be moved out of the way towards the driver side tire.
While still prying, get a flat head screw driver to pry the old bushing off.
For re-installation, get some brake grease that is safe for rubber or the lubricant that they provide with the Energy Suspension bushings. Coat the entire bushing, including the inner diameter with grease. Also grease the rack itself where you'll be slipping the bushing on to.
Using the pry bar again, move the rack forward and push the new bushing on with your fingers. Ensure the rear of the bushing fully wraps around and meets in the back.
Then slip the bracket over the new bushing, again while slightly prying the rack forward so you can maneuver it in place.
Re-installation of the bracket is the reverse of removal with torque specs around 52-72 ft/lbs
I came across this post when I was pre-planning to tackle my mangled driver side bushing. So, just wanted to share my experience for people who looking to replace theirs. My passenger side bushing could probably be changed too, but I don't feel like dropping the Y and risking one of the rusted studs snapping.
As pmohr said, the bushing is split so you can wrap it around without removing the entire rack.
For the driver side, jack the car up as high as possible and secure with jack stands. Both bracket bolts + the nut (all 19mm) can be removed from underneath the car. I believe some have suggested removing the air box and going from the top, but it was too far a reach for me. When looking at the bracket, the top two bolts are side by side. Use a deep impact socket for the one on the left and a regular socket for the one on the right.
You'll need a cheater pipe to go over your 1/2' drive ratchet to get the torque to remove those bolts (~70 ft/lbs).
Once the bracket is removed, use a pry bar between the subframe and the rack to push the rack a little towards the front of the car. This will give you enough clearance for the bracket to clear the lower stud and be moved out of the way towards the driver side tire.
While still prying, get a flat head screw driver to pry the old bushing off.
For re-installation, get some brake grease that is safe for rubber or the lubricant that they provide with the Energy Suspension bushings. Coat the entire bushing, including the inner diameter with grease. Also grease the rack itself where you'll be slipping the bushing on to.
Using the pry bar again, move the rack forward and push the new bushing on with your fingers. Ensure the rear of the bushing fully wraps around and meets in the back.
Then slip the bracket over the new bushing, again while slightly prying the rack forward so you can maneuver it in place.
Re-installation of the bracket is the reverse of removal with torque specs around 52-72 ft/lbs
07-16-2015, 02:35 AM
#6
Hey guys,
I came across this post when I was pre-planning to tackle my mangled driver side bushing. So, just wanted to share my experience for people who looking to replace theirs. My passenger side bushing could probably be changed too, but I don't feel like dropping the Y and risking one of the rusted studs snapping.
As pmohr said, the bushing is split so you can wrap it around without removing the entire rack.
For the driver side, jack the car up as high as possible and secure with jack stands. Both bracket bolts + the nut (all 19mm) can be removed from underneath the car. I believe some have suggested removing the air box and going from the top, but it was too far a reach for me. When looking at the bracket, the top two bolts are side by side. Use a deep impact socket for the one on the left and a regular socket for the one on the right.
You'll need a cheater pipe to go over your 1/2' drive ratchet to get the torque to remove those bolts (~70 ft/lbs).
Once the bracket is removed, use a pry bar between the subframe and the rack to push the rack a little towards the front of the car. This will give you enough clearance for the bracket to clear the lower stud and be moved out of the way towards the driver side tire.
While still prying, get a flat head screw driver to pry the old bushing off.
For re-installation, get some brake grease that is safe for rubber or the lubricant that they provide with the Energy Suspension bushings. Coat the entire bushing, including the inner diameter with grease. Also grease the rack itself where you'll be slipping the bushing on to.
Using the pry bar again, move the rack forward and push the new bushing on with your fingers. Ensure the rear of the bushing fully wraps around and meets in the back.
Then slip the bracket over the new bushing, again while slightly prying the rack forward so you can maneuver it in place.
Re-installation of the bracket is the reverse of removal with torque specs around 52-72 ft/lbs
I came across this post when I was pre-planning to tackle my mangled driver side bushing. So, just wanted to share my experience for people who looking to replace theirs. My passenger side bushing could probably be changed too, but I don't feel like dropping the Y and risking one of the rusted studs snapping.
As pmohr said, the bushing is split so you can wrap it around without removing the entire rack.
For the driver side, jack the car up as high as possible and secure with jack stands. Both bracket bolts + the nut (all 19mm) can be removed from underneath the car. I believe some have suggested removing the air box and going from the top, but it was too far a reach for me. When looking at the bracket, the top two bolts are side by side. Use a deep impact socket for the one on the left and a regular socket for the one on the right.
You'll need a cheater pipe to go over your 1/2' drive ratchet to get the torque to remove those bolts (~70 ft/lbs).
Once the bracket is removed, use a pry bar between the subframe and the rack to push the rack a little towards the front of the car. This will give you enough clearance for the bracket to clear the lower stud and be moved out of the way towards the driver side tire.
While still prying, get a flat head screw driver to pry the old bushing off.
For re-installation, get some brake grease that is safe for rubber or the lubricant that they provide with the Energy Suspension bushings. Coat the entire bushing, including the inner diameter with grease. Also grease the rack itself where you'll be slipping the bushing on to.
Using the pry bar again, move the rack forward and push the new bushing on with your fingers. Ensure the rear of the bushing fully wraps around and meets in the back.
Then slip the bracket over the new bushing, again while slightly prying the rack forward so you can maneuver it in place.
Re-installation of the bracket is the reverse of removal with torque specs around 52-72 ft/lbs
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