how to wire low beam to go on with high beam
get it.. i want both filaments on together
02-01-2009, 09:48 PM
#8
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lol thats silly. The purpose of the high beams are to show more light than the lows. So why would the lows be any better?
Just buy some projectors and hid kit. That should solve all your problems. Get it? lol
Just buy some projectors and hid kit. That should solve all your problems. Get it? lol
02-01-2009, 09:52 PM
#9
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i understand that high beams are to put out more light.... but with both high and low beam filaments on more light will be expelled from the headlight its kinda like doing the fog light mod where as more light will come out with the high beams on as well as the fogs with them both being on
Last edited by GoNe; 02-01-2009 at 09:56 PM.
02-01-2009, 10:01 PM
#10
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Do you have fogs? Cause if you dont get some. If you do get a hid kit for them. I know what you mean by switching from low to high you see a little more light, but it isn't that much noticeable. Barely if anything.
02-02-2009, 12:43 AM
#13
Wow, this sounds like a very confusing conversation. Somebody is asking alot and the other is explaining. (Good job Petro2342) 
-GoNe - if you want light output do as the others have said and get an HID kit. I have the HID 30,000K pinkish purple tint - if you have foglights upgrade the bulbs to 100w bulbs, if your not happy with that set up - get some PIAA's. Any will do i have some 959's i will be installing soon and trust me i'll be seeing into the next day with all them on. Plan on upgrading your alt'nator and wiring unless you want some frying.........good luck. Any more questions?
-GoNe - if you want light output do as the others have said and get an HID kit. I have the HID 30,000K pinkish purple tint - if you have foglights upgrade the bulbs to 100w bulbs, if your not happy with that set up - get some PIAA's. Any will do i have some 959's i will be installing soon and trust me i'll be seeing into the next day with all them on. Plan on upgrading your alt'nator and wiring unless you want some frying.........good luck. Any more questions?
02-02-2009, 01:16 AM
#15
Not the grounding, the running both filaments at once; it was designed to only run either the high or low filament at a time.
02-02-2009, 06:00 AM
#16
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Having both filaments running is going to have both generating heat, and they're so close together that I agree with DaveVQ and pmohr that it will overheat.
OP: Get some good halogen driving lights, put them on the bumper. Retrofitting to HID is an endeavor, and if you don't want to put in the time or money, get driving lights. And when I say "good" driving lights, I mean Hella clear-lens driving lights (no ridges, they're foglights) with a good quality clear halogen bulb. Not ebay H3 foglights with a 8000k kit like everyone else is going to recommend.
OP: Get some good halogen driving lights, put them on the bumper. Retrofitting to HID is an endeavor, and if you don't want to put in the time or money, get driving lights. And when I say "good" driving lights, I mean Hella clear-lens driving lights (no ridges, they're foglights) with a good quality clear halogen bulb. Not ebay H3 foglights with a 8000k kit like everyone else is going to recommend.
02-02-2009, 11:58 AM
#17
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The amount of heat generated with both filiments running at the same time will probably case the bulb to severely overheat and possibly explode.
Have fun cleaning that mess out of your headlights!
Have fun cleaning that mess out of your headlights!
02-02-2009, 11:59 AM
#18
Sounds like I need to grab my old bulbs and battery and entertain myself.
11-16-2009, 10:33 AM
#22
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sorry to bring this thread back up, but i was looking for How To on the same issue.....
You need to put a directional diode on the high and low relays so when the high beam relay gets power it switches on the low beam relay on as well.
Need a diode that's at least 16V.. and 1 amp i think. Our cars have the relays on separate side tho so you will need run a wire. So i was looking if there's another way without running a wire witch wouldn't be hard to do.
You need to put a directional diode on the high and low relays so when the high beam relay gets power it switches on the low beam relay on as well.
Need a diode that's at least 16V.. and 1 amp i think. Our cars have the relays on separate side tho so you will need run a wire. So i was looking if there's another way without running a wire witch wouldn't be hard to do.
11-16-2009, 10:45 AM
#23
You don't want to do this on the stock 9004 type bulbs. If you have a dual-bulb setup like the 9005/9006 BMW used to use or some of the others, then that will work just fine.
But running that much current through the ground electrode on a dual-filament bulb is a quick way to melt your headlight sockets and possibly start a fire. the tiny wires have to run so much current that they heat up at the highest point of resistance (the connectors) and melt the plastic around the socket. This further increases the resistance in the connection and creates more heat. and it's a downward spiral from there.
Thus... don't do it if you have single-bulb headlights.
But running that much current through the ground electrode on a dual-filament bulb is a quick way to melt your headlight sockets and possibly start a fire. the tiny wires have to run so much current that they heat up at the highest point of resistance (the connectors) and melt the plastic around the socket. This further increases the resistance in the connection and creates more heat. and it's a downward spiral from there.
Thus... don't do it if you have single-bulb headlights.
11-16-2009, 12:48 PM
#24
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Get a damn harness. Diodes will kill your output. A standard diode drops about 2v. That's 2v less at the bulbs, so they won't function as properly. Since the A32 already has 18ga black spaghetti headlight wiring, another 2v drop will kill them.
With a relay harness, you can get full battery voltage.
But even if the wiring is up to the task, do not run the filaments together. It would give you more light output, but would absolutely destroy bulb life, and risk the glass exploding. They are not designed to handle that much heat.
Get a good quality headlight restoration kit, and clean up the front plastic to remove any small nicks and scratches that reduce output. Then get a 9004 wiring harness, and some good non-tinted bulbs, and you're solid.
With a relay harness, you can get full battery voltage.
But even if the wiring is up to the task, do not run the filaments together. It would give you more light output, but would absolutely destroy bulb life, and risk the glass exploding. They are not designed to handle that much heat.
Get a good quality headlight restoration kit, and clean up the front plastic to remove any small nicks and scratches that reduce output. Then get a 9004 wiring harness, and some good non-tinted bulbs, and you're solid.
11-16-2009, 01:32 PM
#25
^^^ AFAIK, diodes only direct power, not drop any voltage. A resistor is used to drop voltage. I understand what you're getting at I guess, but not totaly sure I agree.
If you were to run both fillaments at the same time, it will burn up in the housing, possibly start a fire, and be a big mess to clean up. They aren't designed to run that way, don't do it. As mentioned above, if you want brighter lights - start with driving / fog lights. If you want to spend the money and do it right - do an HID set up. I would recomend this for the best results.
If you were to run both fillaments at the same time, it will burn up in the housing, possibly start a fire, and be a big mess to clean up. They aren't designed to run that way, don't do it. As mentioned above, if you want brighter lights - start with driving / fog lights. If you want to spend the money and do it right - do an HID set up. I would recomend this for the best results.
11-16-2009, 03:31 PM
#26
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i have R34 headlights with 9005 9006 bulbs, and a diode does not change anything it just directs current. I did this on an avalanche, it works like a charm, but his relays were next to each other. I have all of his front lights on =) (fogs, high, lows, parking) lol its bright as hell, makes me glad i have an auto dim mirror
11-16-2009, 03:51 PM
#27
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if u have both of them on at the same time for about 3 mins, u prob will fried the light controll unit or melt down the headlight housing. put ur thinkin cap on, and think about it. with 2low beams( 65wx2) and 2 high beam (110w x2) thats 350w thats 30 amps! ur alternator will blow up on you with in 10 mins! good luck blowin **** up
11-16-2009, 05:15 PM
#28
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i understand that high beams are to put out more light.... but with both high and low beam filaments on more light will be expelled from the headlight its kinda like doing the fog light mod where as more light will come out with the high beams on as well as the fogs with them both being on
11-16-2009, 05:31 PM
#29
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Diodes do drop voltage, 2v or less usually.
So, if your car's electrical system is at 13.5v, putting diodes in front of your bulbs will drop it to ~12v. Not a very smart idea.
As the potential difference is increased above an arbitrarily defined “cut-in voltage” or “on-voltage” or “diode forward voltage drop (Vd)”, the diode current becomes appreciable (the level of current considered “appreciable” and the value of cut-in voltage depends on the application), and the diode presents a very low resistance.
The current–voltage curve is exponential. In a normal silicon diode at rated currents, the arbitrary “cut-in” voltage is defined as 0.6 to 0.7 volts. The value is different for other diode types — Schottky diodes can be rated as low as 0.2 V and red or blue light-emitting diodes (LEDs) can have values of 1.4 V and 4.0 V respectively.
At higher currents the forward voltage drop of the diode increases. A drop of 1 V to 1.5 V is typical at full rated current for power diodes.
The current–voltage curve is exponential. In a normal silicon diode at rated currents, the arbitrary “cut-in” voltage is defined as 0.6 to 0.7 volts. The value is different for other diode types — Schottky diodes can be rated as low as 0.2 V and red or blue light-emitting diodes (LEDs) can have values of 1.4 V and 4.0 V respectively.
At higher currents the forward voltage drop of the diode increases. A drop of 1 V to 1.5 V is typical at full rated current for power diodes.
11-16-2009, 07:30 PM
#33
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How did you wire them.... The current for both filaments run through the same ground (-). I can see it not burning up wires if you relayed the lights with larger gauge grounds on each bulb and run the grounds direct to the battery. I guess it depends on how often you turn the highs on too... but I would still be a little concerned 
How long have you been runnin your lights on the Avalanche? How often are you able to use your setup with both filaments at the same time (highs on) (approx. time your highs are on consistantly)?
11-16-2009, 07:43 PM
#34
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HID ballasts are non-ohmic. They don't have any higher output at 13.5v than they do at 12v. If you used diodes in front of halogen bulbs, the diodes might melt, and would certainly reduce output.
Of course, if you put the diodes between the stalk and the relays, it's fine. Only when they're between the relays and the bulbs or ballasts is there an issue.
However,
These two statements are false.
Seriously? I mean, seriously? This does not seem like a bad idea to you?
Of course, if you put the diodes between the stalk and the relays, it's fine. Only when they're between the relays and the bulbs or ballasts is there an issue.
However,
diode does not change anything it just directs current
diodes only direct power, not drop any voltage. A resistor is used to drop voltage.
Seriously? I mean, seriously? This does not seem like a bad idea to you?
11-16-2009, 08:23 PM
#35
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i like to go out of the city area where its dark... and i mean dark and lots of deer.... having all on helps a lot. I just stuck the diode directly to the relay a and relay b in the avalanche... in the relay box under the hood the high beam relay and the low is next to each other, so i just took a diode and shorted it between the two relays so when the high beams turn on it turns the low beam relay on. Had it on for at least 20 min in the avalanche.
Last edited by Infowire; 11-16-2009 at 08:35 PM.
11-16-2009, 09:09 PM
#36
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i like to go out of the city area where its dark... and i mean dark and lots of deer.... having all on helps a lot. I just stuck the diode directly to the relay a and relay b in the avalanche... in the relay box under the hood the high beam relay and the low is next to each other, so i just took a diode and shorted it between the two relays so when the high beams turn on it turns the low beam relay on. Had it on for at least 20 min in the avalanche.
If you put the diode at the bulb socket, that would be an issue, since a 35w HID ballast is about 3A when it's running and up to ~10A during startup, or a standard ~60w halogen bulb would be about 5A at all times. A regular 1A diode will fry in that situation. Also, if you were using it with dual filament bulbs, that would be a problem, since they're not designed to handle both filaments on together, and would severely overheat.
With separate high and low bulbs, and with the diodes ahead of the relays, you are doing it the correct way.
Last edited by nalc; 11-16-2009 at 09:12 PM.
11-17-2009, 05:31 PM
#38
I think the confusion is where the diode should be placed: you'd throw the diode on the "switch" to relay #2, not inline with battery voltage & the headlamp. Plus placing the diode between battery & bulb doesn't make sense: protecting the relay from negative voltage from the bulb?
11-17-2009, 07:24 PM
#39
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I think the confusion is where the diode should be placed: you'd throw the diode on the "switch" to relay #2, not inline with battery voltage & the headlamp. Plus placing the diode between battery & bulb doesn't make sense: protecting the relay from negative voltage from the bulb?
The reason that it isn't a good idea to put them right at the bulbs is because they drop the voltage significantly, which will reduce the brightness of the bulbs, and will likely burn out the diodes quickly. If they are placed at the relays, the voltage drop is the same, but the relays need far less current than the bulbs, so the diodes will not burn out, and there will be no voltage drop at the bulbs.
11-17-2009, 07:28 PM
#40
