What would you do with two Gen 4's?
02-02-2009, 08:26 PM
#1
What would you do with two Gen 4's?
First, hello to all and what a great forum! Almost TOO much material to assimilate, but I have been wading through as much as I can in the last week or two.
I bought a 1996 Max GXE automatic for my youngest (17) son after he did in the 96 Taurus he had. It has 150,000 miles on it, I was able to get it for $900. Body is decent, dark green paint with a lot of minor scratches but no real dents.
Oldest (19) son liked it a lot so we sold his 1997 Explorer and got him a 1997 GXE for $2300, but it only had 84,000 miles on it. It is metallic beige, body straight, has the optional Moonroof, no scratches or dents except a gouge in the rear bumper.
So now I have 2 new ones in the driveway and am trying to figure out what they are going to need to get both my kids thru college. Recommendations would be helpful, and I have gone thru most of the threads dealing with maintenance.
Both cars passed Calif smog test on first try with no adjustments. Here's what I know about the cars so far.
1996 GXE with 150,000 runs stronger than the 1997. No codes (no ghost codes either), has had dino oil changes every 3000 miles, has an aftermarket stereo, new tires and new brakes. Battery is dated 10/2005. No idea when or if plugs or fuel filters were done. A/T fluid is clear and pink, but smells just a tad burnt. Front brakes and rotors were replaced at 136,500
I put a new air filter in it (old one was in pretty good shape), nothing else, it runs great and steers straight. It does have a squeal on start-up, and in idle it sometimes makes a light whistling noise in the engine compartment near the belts. Maybe a pulley, don't know yet.
1997 GXE with 84,000 miles shows KS code (P0325) in OBDII. This car had the (automatic) trans replaced under warranty at 58,000 miles due to 'rough shifting'. Probably just needed a change to synthetic ATF, but who knows. Had the starter replaced last August, and has a new battery and new tires. Brakes (front and back) were done 13,000 miles ago. Has had oil changes done at 3000 mile intervals, and had the valve cover gaskets replaced at a Nissan dealership about 2 years ago. I put an air filter in it as well; old one was really dirty. ATF is clear, pink and smells sweet. Car drives nice but drifts a bit to the right at freeway speeds; not really a pull, but not perfectly straight.
If you had these two vehicles sitting in your driveway, what would you do in terms of maintenance (not mods) and in what order if time/money was a factor?
BTW, I have already ordered an OEM knock sensor on Ebay. Hopefully that will pick up the power in the 1997 to at least equal the 1996. The 97 shifts harder from first to second than the 96 does, but maybe a few quarts of Amsoil ATF will fix that later.
I did buy a Haynes manual too. Probably don't need it with all the DIY stuff here, but good to keep in the trunk.
Thanks in advance, you guys really know your Nissans!
I bought a 1996 Max GXE automatic for my youngest (17) son after he did in the 96 Taurus he had. It has 150,000 miles on it, I was able to get it for $900. Body is decent, dark green paint with a lot of minor scratches but no real dents.
Oldest (19) son liked it a lot so we sold his 1997 Explorer and got him a 1997 GXE for $2300, but it only had 84,000 miles on it. It is metallic beige, body straight, has the optional Moonroof, no scratches or dents except a gouge in the rear bumper.
So now I have 2 new ones in the driveway and am trying to figure out what they are going to need to get both my kids thru college. Recommendations would be helpful, and I have gone thru most of the threads dealing with maintenance.
Both cars passed Calif smog test on first try with no adjustments. Here's what I know about the cars so far.
1996 GXE with 150,000 runs stronger than the 1997. No codes (no ghost codes either), has had dino oil changes every 3000 miles, has an aftermarket stereo, new tires and new brakes. Battery is dated 10/2005. No idea when or if plugs or fuel filters were done. A/T fluid is clear and pink, but smells just a tad burnt. Front brakes and rotors were replaced at 136,500
I put a new air filter in it (old one was in pretty good shape), nothing else, it runs great and steers straight. It does have a squeal on start-up, and in idle it sometimes makes a light whistling noise in the engine compartment near the belts. Maybe a pulley, don't know yet.
1997 GXE with 84,000 miles shows KS code (P0325) in OBDII. This car had the (automatic) trans replaced under warranty at 58,000 miles due to 'rough shifting'. Probably just needed a change to synthetic ATF, but who knows. Had the starter replaced last August, and has a new battery and new tires. Brakes (front and back) were done 13,000 miles ago. Has had oil changes done at 3000 mile intervals, and had the valve cover gaskets replaced at a Nissan dealership about 2 years ago. I put an air filter in it as well; old one was really dirty. ATF is clear, pink and smells sweet. Car drives nice but drifts a bit to the right at freeway speeds; not really a pull, but not perfectly straight.
If you had these two vehicles sitting in your driveway, what would you do in terms of maintenance (not mods) and in what order if time/money was a factor?
BTW, I have already ordered an OEM knock sensor on Ebay. Hopefully that will pick up the power in the 1997 to at least equal the 1996. The 97 shifts harder from first to second than the 96 does, but maybe a few quarts of Amsoil ATF will fix that later.
I did buy a Haynes manual too. Probably don't need it with all the DIY stuff here, but good to keep in the trunk.
Thanks in advance, you guys really know your Nissans!
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-02-2009 at 09:03 PM.
02-02-2009, 08:59 PM
#4
02-02-2009, 09:02 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 243
The '96 should be a bit quicker than the '97 (less weight) but it shouldn't be all that noticeable. Squeaking on the '96 might just be the serpentine belt. My last car, a '96 Lexus LS 400 required a new one when I bought it (yes, I sold the Lexus and bought my Maxima, that should tell you something!).
They are great cars. With regular maintenance they will last over 300,000 miles!
They are great cars. With regular maintenance they will last over 300,000 miles!
02-02-2009, 09:05 PM
#7
Sounds like you know your stuff man.
In that case, take a look at the bushings. Specifically, the tie rod, ball joint and sway arm bushings. Might want to look at the flex section and the condition of the exhaust in regards to rust/dents.
Other than that, good luck!
In that case, take a look at the bushings. Specifically, the tie rod, ball joint and sway arm bushings. Might want to look at the flex section and the condition of the exhaust in regards to rust/dents.
Other than that, good luck!
02-02-2009, 09:08 PM
#8
When I get over 10,000 posts here and they manage to get a college degree, I'll look into the turbo and exhaust mods 8-)
BTW, what is it with stock Maxima wheel covers? When they get old, the finish wears off and they just like base flat-beige plastic. Replaced them with cheap but nicer looking covers on the 1996...1997 is still uglier.
BTW, what is it with stock Maxima wheel covers? When they get old, the finish wears off and they just like base flat-beige plastic. Replaced them with cheap but nicer looking covers on the 1996...1997 is still uglier.
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-02-2009 at 09:12 PM.
02-02-2009, 09:18 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 243
4th Gen Maxima GXEs have some really raunchy wheel covers for sure. I'd reccommend a trip to the local junkyard. See if you can get some 15" 7-spoke "sawblade" Maxima wheels there. Or the 16" 5-spoke wheels from a '97-'99 SE. My '96 was missing its donut spare when I bought it so I got a full-sized sawblade alloy for $40 from a salvage yard.
02-02-2009, 09:38 PM
#11
LOL, this thread may go on for awhile...
Do 1992 maxima wheels fit the 4th gen Maximas?
There is a set for sale cheap and locally, ugly, but they are alloys rather than steel with plastic hub covers. This is what they look like.
Do 1992 maxima wheels fit the 4th gen Maximas?
There is a set for sale cheap and locally, ugly, but they are alloys rather than steel with plastic hub covers. This is what they look like.
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-02-2009 at 09:41 PM.
02-02-2009, 10:07 PM
#12
Those are the 4th gen "honeycomb" wheels. Stock wheels for my '95 GLE. Yes, they will fit.
02-02-2009, 10:10 PM
#13
Hows it goin Troop, well time and money being factors i would probably get a second oppinon on those trannys. It sounds like their in need of some TLC... please clearify with the statement you made on the Fluid conditions..
96: 'A/T fluid is clear and pink, but smells just a tad burnt.'
97: 'ATF is clear, pink and smells sweet.'
give us a shade of pink if you will.. cause that sounds contaminated..
if i were you, i would take care of the tranny's first.. cause honestly, what goods a car with 'no go'..
Drop the pan, check the fluid conditions from there, and react as neccessary.
96: 'A/T fluid is clear and pink, but smells just a tad burnt.'
97: 'ATF is clear, pink and smells sweet.'
give us a shade of pink if you will.. cause that sounds contaminated..
if i were you, i would take care of the tranny's first.. cause honestly, what goods a car with 'no go'..
Drop the pan, check the fluid conditions from there, and react as neccessary.
02-02-2009, 10:52 PM
#14
Regarding the trans, all I did was take a look at the AT dipsticks and a smell test. Not sure what else I can to to explain except take a couple pictures...don't think that will tell much. These cars won't be driven hard, but I will probably go to a full synthetic ATF in the next couple of weeks. Need to find my wheel ramps first, I haven't had to work on cars for 10 years, as I have been leasing both the cars we drove.
02-03-2009, 12:59 AM
#15
Wow what a useful post!
Just because they are automatics, doesn't make them garbage. Example Jime has the fastest Maxima here and he's auto.
To OP:
biggest things to watch with these vehicles are the Coilpacks, MAF, and some of the sensors as you have already found out.
After 100K miles inspect the bushings around the suspension area, as well as the bearings, CV axles.
My usual maintenance on a vehicle over 100k milage is a full brake replacement (flush brakes, rotors, pads), replace the struts, check bushings and tie rods, flush radiator, change out the tranny fluid, change the oil, change the spark plugs, and give the car a nice detail.
These are reliable cars and major mechanical failures are rare (with non-FI and non spraying cars). They should treat your sons well to get through college.
Lastly welcome to the site.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 02-03-2009 at 01:02 AM.
02-03-2009, 05:33 AM
#16
So the title of my post read's "Transmission Coolers".
Well worth the money for a fourth gen auto, especially one with fluid that "smells just a tad burnt."
Nowhere does my post say the transmissions are garbage but they are one of the weak links on a Maxima whether auto or manual.
Thanks DaveVQ, it's tough to flame and yet offer some sound advice but you managed it. No wonder I've been on the org for almost 6 years and still have a low post count.
Well worth the money for a fourth gen auto, especially one with fluid that "smells just a tad burnt."
Nowhere does my post say the transmissions are garbage but they are one of the weak links on a Maxima whether auto or manual.
Thanks DaveVQ, it's tough to flame and yet offer some sound advice but you managed it. No wonder I've been on the org for almost 6 years and still have a low post count.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 02-03-2009 at 10:27 AM.
02-03-2009, 05:56 AM
#17
So the title of my post read's "Transmission Coolers".
Well worth the money for a fourth gen auto, especially one with fluid that "smells just a tad burnt."
Nowhere does my post say the transmissions are garbage but they are one of the weak links on a Maxima whether auto or manual.
Thanks DaveVQ, it's tough to flame and yet offer some sound advice but you managed it. No wonder I've been on the org for almost 6 years and still have a low post count.
Well worth the money for a fourth gen auto, especially one with fluid that "smells just a tad burnt."
Nowhere does my post say the transmissions are garbage but they are one of the weak links on a Maxima whether auto or manual.
Thanks DaveVQ, it's tough to flame and yet offer some sound advice but you managed it. No wonder I've been on the org for almost 6 years and still have a low post count.
Tranny cooler are not neccessary if the car has no mods, they use the built in cooler on the radiator, why spend the $50 if he doesn't have to. These cars hit 300k miles without tranny coolers just fine, as daily drivers. Change the tranny fluid to Amsoil Synthetic is more effective then adding a tranny cooler.
Now if he was modding and adding power I'll say yes it'll help.
Last edited by phenryiv1; 02-03-2009 at 10:27 AM.
02-03-2009, 06:26 AM
#19
Forcing constant downshifts with the autos are the weak points, other then that, Jime is out there on a stock Auto tranny pushing 280+whp and hitting 100 shot on a stock tranny, I believe its the original that came with the motor. Seems fine to me
02-03-2009, 07:39 AM
#20
Both boys are pretty conservative drivers, in fact pretty conservative overall. Don't think they will be racing the cars, just basic transportation to and from work and school.
02-03-2009, 07:54 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
Posts: 460
Although that may be true these cars are loads of fun for being stock! I have fun with mine every time I get out of work. Some thing about the car saying "make me go faster dammit!" or "lets see what I can do".
02-03-2009, 10:57 AM
#22
I dont know how big of a problem it is out in Cali, but here in the midwest and points north and east core support rust is a big problem. Take a look under the bumper where the radiator sits and make sure its clean. If so, do the stuff suggested and you should be golden.
02-03-2009, 04:02 PM
#23
I paid the guy $20 and he delivered the set of 4 to me at work today, so I"m into a set of Max ugly alloy rims to replace the fugly wheel cover/steel wheels for $70. That works.
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-03-2009 at 04:13 PM.
02-03-2009, 04:22 PM
#24
I paid the guy $20 and he delivered the set of 4 to me at work today, so I"m into a set of Max ugly alloy rims to replace the fugly wheel cover/steel wheels for $70. That works.
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
02-03-2009, 04:40 PM
#25
i would like to cast a vote. take the two cars and make one maxima limo.
that would be effing sweet to see 8 seats in a maxima
or would that be a quest? eh. either way, originality ftw.
that would be effing sweet to see 8 seats in a maxima
or would that be a quest? eh. either way, originality ftw.
02-03-2009, 05:12 PM
#26
I paid the guy $20 and he delivered the set of 4 to me at work today, so I"m into a set of Max ugly alloy rims to replace the fugly wheel cover/steel wheels for $70. That works.
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
Got a set of OEM NGK platinum plugs for the 97 today...they are pregapped to .044
Do you guys leave them alone or close the gap to the .039-.043 that the factory recommends?
I guess who cares about .001", eh?
Nice score on the wheels!
Always check the gap. All the plugs I buy around here are "pre-gapped" I get them home, check them, and they are all over the place. Anywhere from .038-.046 No joke. Gap to .044 and go!
02-03-2009, 07:18 PM
#28
Amsoil synthetic should do him fine...
Forcing constant downshifts with the autos are the weak points, other then that, Jime is out there on a stock Auto tranny pushing 280+whp and hitting 100 shot on a stock tranny, I believe its the original that came with the motor. Seems fine to me
Forcing constant downshifts with the autos are the weak points, other then that, Jime is out there on a stock Auto tranny pushing 280+whp and hitting 100 shot on a stock tranny, I believe its the original that came with the motor. Seems fine to me
TO the OP, as others mentioned, start being aware of potential signs and noises of failures esp for the higher mileage max. cv axles, wheel bearings, misfiring due to coils (IMO go w/ nissan brand, stay away from cheap aftermarket or used coils), KS, etc. as long as you stay on top of these, car will run fine
02-04-2009, 01:46 AM
#32
02-04-2009, 02:25 AM
#33
I dont know how big of a problem it is out in Cali, but here in the midwest and points north and east core support rust is a big problem. Take a look under the bumper where the radiator sits and make sure its clean. If so, do the stuff suggested and you should be golden.
Rust? What's rust?
Haha no but seriously, most CA cars have little to no rust whatsoever. Depending on how close the OP lives to the ocean though, or if the cars spent a lot of time near the coast he may have a bit, but generally speaking he should have absolutely nothing to worry about.
I have a 96 that is my college car, 5 speed with right at 120k miles now. I put 20k on it last year alone! Bought it with 100k, replaced the KS, o2 sensors, changed the boots on the CVs, and cleaned the MAF. Also replaced the filter with a K&N drop in unit only because I got it for free.
It is a great college car. Reliable, decent mileage, fun as hell to drive, pretty safe, rides well, etc. Basically it doesn't do any one thing great, but does a lot of things pretty well. Your sons should be fine, it sounds like you know your way around a car pretty well.
Just out of curiosity, which schools are they going to?
02-04-2009, 07:27 AM
#34
02-04-2009, 04:36 PM
#37
And I will probably take a few pictures if I can get both my boys in the driveway at the same time, seems they are always busy. Of course, all costs double; when I buy window tint for one kid, gotta do it for the other as well.
I have more time on my hands since I have been excommunicated by Mike for my unfunny cartoon.
Take care!
02-04-2009, 04:58 PM
#38
i downshift my auto pretty often
TO the OP, as others mentioned, start being aware of potential signs and noises of failures esp for the higher mileage max. cv axles, wheel bearings, misfiring due to coils (IMO go w/ nissan brand, stay away from cheap aftermarket or used coils), KS, etc. as long as you stay on top of these, car will run fine
TO the OP, as others mentioned, start being aware of potential signs and noises of failures esp for the higher mileage max. cv axles, wheel bearings, misfiring due to coils (IMO go w/ nissan brand, stay away from cheap aftermarket or used coils), KS, etc. as long as you stay on top of these, car will run fine
02-04-2009, 06:52 PM
#39
Haha nice! I am a third year at Cal Poly. I LOVE it here, tell him he made an awesome choice. Visited almost every school on the West Coast over the past three years(between all my friends, UCLA, UCSD, UCSB, UCD, UCSC, UCB, as well as some state schools) and I would pick CP over any of them.
