What would you do with two Gen 4's?
02-05-2009, 08:11 AM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
As stated above, check out the radiator coolant condition and flush if required. Check the condition of the spark plugs and both belts.
If you are unsure of the condition and age of the AT fluid, you might want to do either a drain and refill or a flush. However, I am no expert on ATF as my car is a 5-speed.
If you are unsure of the condition and age of the AT fluid, you might want to do either a drain and refill or a flush. However, I am no expert on ATF as my car is a 5-speed.
02-05-2009, 08:23 AM
#43
LOL, you don't find the $30 Pep Boys wheel covers to be stylish? They were a big improvement over the stock wheel covers...
While I'm here, can anyone remember how to remove the black thingy that blocks the entrance to the KS? It has 3 small vacuum hoses connected to it, and an electrical connection clipped to the top. The harness and hoses come off easy, but how do you move the unit? If I could get that out of the way I could probably get the KS replaced today. Not sure how to remove it, looks like some sort of clip holds it in.
While I'm here, can anyone remember how to remove the black thingy that blocks the entrance to the KS? It has 3 small vacuum hoses connected to it, and an electrical connection clipped to the top. The harness and hoses come off easy, but how do you move the unit? If I could get that out of the way I could probably get the KS replaced today. Not sure how to remove it, looks like some sort of clip holds it in.
02-05-2009, 08:42 AM
#44
While I'm here, can anyone remember how to remove the black thingy that blocks the entrance to the KS? It has 3 small vacuum hoses connected to it, and an electrical connection clipped to the top. The harness and hoses come off easy, but how do you move the unit? If I could get that out of the way I could probably get the KS replaced today. Not sure how to remove it, looks like some sort of clip holds it in.
Well anyway, the bolt to get that thing off is UNDERNEATH the part
! It can be kind of tricky to get it off. Here's how I did it:I used a small (about 4 - 5 inches) 10mm open end wrench. I felt around under the valve, and slipped the closed end of the wrench on the bolt. Once I had it on, I placed a spark plug socket extension down there, so that it was perpendicular to the open end wrench. Remember, since you're working from above the bolt, you'll need to push clockwise to loosen it, and pull counter clockwise to tighten it.
Once I had the extension in place, i held the wrench onto the bolt with one hand, and used my other hand to push / pry at the wrench with the spark plug extension. This broke the bolt free pretty easily. Once it broke,I was able to loosen it the rest of the way with the wrench alone (takes a while, b/c due to the limited working space, you have to push, remove, reattach to the bolt, and repeat this process a bunch of times before you can loosen the bolt by hand.) Of course, if you have one of those ratcheting gear wrenches, it will make that job 100 times easier, since there will be no need to take the wrench off the bolt until it is removed.
__________________
02-05-2009, 08:58 AM
#45
Many thanks, I would have been trying to figure out how to get the EGRC removed from the metal bracket from the top.
BTW, every time I see the infamous quotes in your sig, I chuckle. Hope I'm never featured there!
BTW, every time I see the infamous quotes in your sig, I chuckle. Hope I'm never featured there!
02-05-2009, 09:19 AM
#46
That's the EGRC Solenoid Valve. I managed to break mine while replacing the KS, because I shoved my arm in there without removing it. I guess I put too much weight on the part or something, because I immediately had the code after the job was done.
Well anyway, the bolt to get that thing off is UNDERNEATH the part! It can be kind of tricky to get it off. Here's how I did it:
I used a small (about 4 - 5 inches) 10mm open end wrench. I felt around under the valve, and slipped the closed end of the wrench on the bolt. Once I had it on, I placed a spark plug socket extension down there, so that it was perpendicular to the open end wrench. Remember, since you're working from above the bolt, you'll need to push clockwise to loosen it, and pull counter clockwise to tighten it.
Once I had the extension in place, i held the wrench onto the bolt with one hand, and used my other hand to push / pry at the wrench with the spark plug extension. This broke the bolt free pretty easily. Once it broke,I was able to loosen it the rest of the way with the wrench alone (takes a while, b/c due to the limited working space, you have to push, remove, reattach to the bolt, and repeat this process a bunch of times before you can loosen the bolt by hand.) Of course, if you have one of those ratcheting gear wrenches, it will make that job 100 times easier, since there will be no need to take the wrench off the bolt until it is removed.
__________________
Well anyway, the bolt to get that thing off is UNDERNEATH the part
! It can be kind of tricky to get it off. Here's how I did it:I used a small (about 4 - 5 inches) 10mm open end wrench. I felt around under the valve, and slipped the closed end of the wrench on the bolt. Once I had it on, I placed a spark plug socket extension down there, so that it was perpendicular to the open end wrench. Remember, since you're working from above the bolt, you'll need to push clockwise to loosen it, and pull counter clockwise to tighten it.
Once I had the extension in place, i held the wrench onto the bolt with one hand, and used my other hand to push / pry at the wrench with the spark plug extension. This broke the bolt free pretty easily. Once it broke,I was able to loosen it the rest of the way with the wrench alone (takes a while, b/c due to the limited working space, you have to push, remove, reattach to the bolt, and repeat this process a bunch of times before you can loosen the bolt by hand.) Of course, if you have one of those ratcheting gear wrenches, it will make that job 100 times easier, since there will be no need to take the wrench off the bolt until it is removed.
__________________
wish i knew how to remove it when i replaced my KS.
And CRiME, i had the same problem with my EGRC Solenoid, pulled the codes after my KS replacement and got the same problem.. went back a week later and unplugged the sensor and such; replugged them in securely and vwalla! code disappeared. mabey it has something to do with a bad conection? well worth a try IMO.
02-05-2009, 10:38 AM
#47
I do too. That's why this is the greatest site. Who knows, maybe you'll make the wall of shame one day ! And CRiME, i had the same problem with my EGRC Solenoid, pulled the codes after my KS replacement and got the same problem.. went back a week later and unplugged the sensor and such; replugged them in securely and vwalla! code disappeared. mabey it has something to do with a bad conection? well worth a try IMO.
02-05-2009, 11:47 AM
#48
mo' bettah?
I guess it makes a 97 look like a 95, if you know your rims. Still an improvement.
This change did create one issue. Tire shop that installed them recommended that I go to the dealer and buy the lugnuts that have the flat washer on them. He was concerned that the 'tapered' lugnuts for the steel wheels were not right. You could see on the alloys that there was a mark on the rims where the original lugnuts made contact.
I went to a local Nissan dealer, and he showed me the correct ones. They also had a tapered end, to keep the wheels centered. But they also had a rubber or plastic washer against a lip at the o.d. of the nuts.
Nissan dealer told me not to worry, the steel-wheel nuts would work fine on the alloys. Thoughts? Anyone have any old OEM alloy lugnuts sitting around? Dealer wanted about $5 each for them, nice of him to tell me that I really didn't need to buy them.
Waywego, if you see this, that is the spot the boat used to be in 8-(
I guess it makes a 97 look like a 95, if you know your rims. Still an improvement.
This change did create one issue. Tire shop that installed them recommended that I go to the dealer and buy the lugnuts that have the flat washer on them. He was concerned that the 'tapered' lugnuts for the steel wheels were not right. You could see on the alloys that there was a mark on the rims where the original lugnuts made contact.
I went to a local Nissan dealer, and he showed me the correct ones. They also had a tapered end, to keep the wheels centered. But they also had a rubber or plastic washer against a lip at the o.d. of the nuts.
Nissan dealer told me not to worry, the steel-wheel nuts would work fine on the alloys. Thoughts? Anyone have any old OEM alloy lugnuts sitting around? Dealer wanted about $5 each for them, nice of him to tell me that I really didn't need to buy them.
Waywego, if you see this, that is the spot the boat used to be in 8-(
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-06-2009 at 09:29 AM.
02-05-2009, 03:30 PM
#49
OK, projects #1 and #2 finished.
Got the '95 rims mounted and balanced
Got the Knock Sensor installed, cleared the codes, none reappeared.
What a job though! I have big hands (wife will vouch for that) and no way was I getting mine in there. I did manage to get it all done with just a couple tools: 12-inch ratchet extension, swivel 1/4" socket, extension claw and plumbers putty.
I centered the KS over the threads and used the plumber's putty to keep the bolt in the socket while I tinkered around with it. Took an hour just trying to get it right, but finally the threads caught.
LOL, then my plumber's putty kept the socket and swivel thing on the bolt head when I removed the 12" extension. Took me another 20 minutes to get all that stuff off the bolt and fish it out of the "V" between the cylinders.
I wanna hang the engineer who figured out how to put a maintenance part in such a difficult place.
Next time I'm gonna wait till school is out and pay $5 to one of the neighborhood kids to start the bolt for me.
BTW, the radiotor support beam on both cars looks good. A little surface rust, but look like they can go another 15 years.
Got the '95 rims mounted and balanced
Got the Knock Sensor installed, cleared the codes, none reappeared.
What a job though! I have big hands (wife will vouch for that) and no way was I getting mine in there. I did manage to get it all done with just a couple tools: 12-inch ratchet extension, swivel 1/4" socket, extension claw and plumbers putty.
I centered the KS over the threads and used the plumber's putty to keep the bolt in the socket while I tinkered around with it. Took an hour just trying to get it right, but finally the threads caught.
LOL, then my plumber's putty kept the socket and swivel thing on the bolt head when I removed the 12" extension. Took me another 20 minutes to get all that stuff off the bolt and fish it out of the "V" between the cylinders.
I wanna hang the engineer who figured out how to put a maintenance part in such a difficult place.
Next time I'm gonna wait till school is out and pay $5 to one of the neighborhood kids to start the bolt for me.
BTW, the radiotor support beam on both cars looks good. A little surface rust, but look like they can go another 15 years.
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-08-2009 at 09:12 PM.
02-10-2009, 07:37 PM
#51
Update and question:
The boys and I did some routine maintenance on the 96 and 97 today. Changed the oil and filters in both, R&R'd the fuel filter in both, cleaned both TB's. Changed the plugs in the 97; at 84,000 miles the old ones in it looked like they could easily go another 70,000 miles. Almost no wear showing compared to new platinums, and just a light gray color on the tips.
Noticed while working on them that on BOTH cars, the CV boots are torn, and on the 96 (150,000 miles) the steering rack boot is torn.
How hard of a DIY is replacing CV boots?
How about the steering gear boot?
Both sort of look like they could be a PITA.
Thanks in advance...
BTW, is it just me or do most Gen4 owners think that Nissan could have done a lot better in designing that cover you have to remove to get to the oil filter???
The boys and I did some routine maintenance on the 96 and 97 today. Changed the oil and filters in both, R&R'd the fuel filter in both, cleaned both TB's. Changed the plugs in the 97; at 84,000 miles the old ones in it looked like they could easily go another 70,000 miles. Almost no wear showing compared to new platinums, and just a light gray color on the tips.
Noticed while working on them that on BOTH cars, the CV boots are torn, and on the 96 (150,000 miles) the steering rack boot is torn.
How hard of a DIY is replacing CV boots?
How about the steering gear boot?
Both sort of look like they could be a PITA.
Thanks in advance...
BTW, is it just me or do most Gen4 owners think that Nissan could have done a lot better in designing that cover you have to remove to get to the oil filter???
Last edited by trooplewis; 02-10-2009 at 07:43 PM.
02-10-2009, 08:04 PM
#52
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
The prevailing wisdom seems to be that replacing the CV half shafts is indicated when the boots have been torn for an unknown amount of time. Removing, cleaning, and repacking the joints and replacing the boots is more work than replacing the whole shaft, and only moderately less expensive. CV shafts are $60-$80 each from a parts store, or you can order refurbished shafts with new CV joints from www.raxles.com. Replacing the shafts is not a difficult job with adequate tools and time - if I can do it most anybody can.
02-10-2009, 08:41 PM
#53
makes sense, but I have *4* of them to mess with, plus the steering boot.
If the consensus is replace the whole unit, then should I ignore the torn boots and wait until an axle or CV joint fails and do it then?
I remember with older VW's, they made CV boots that you could install directly on the vehicle with no dis-assembly other than cutting off the old CV boot. Nothing like that for Maximas, eh?
If the consensus is replace the whole unit, then should I ignore the torn boots and wait until an axle or CV joint fails and do it then?
I remember with older VW's, they made CV boots that you could install directly on the vehicle with no dis-assembly other than cutting off the old CV boot. Nothing like that for Maximas, eh?
02-10-2009, 09:16 PM
#54
There are split boots you can buy without disassembly of the front end, but I wouldn't risk it. Just replace the whole shaft. You'll be glad you did in the long run. I also wouldnt want to wait til anything "fails" on any of my cars. As for the steering rack boot, I think that the passenger side is split on both of mine and I'm going to replace the whole rack eventually as they are prone to go bad too. You might take a better look at them where all the lines connect to the rack. Chances are they are both leaking. But to answer the original question, I haven't ever seen just the boot for the rack available.
Just my .02
NM91
Just my .02
NM91
02-11-2009, 06:18 PM
#55
Did a lot of research using the Search function here, the consensus seems to be , "if your boot is cracked, replace the entire axle assembly".
I suppose my curiosity is, what is the advantage to doing that?
The prevention of the disease costs as much in time and money as the actual disease, if you see my point. IF the CV joints are not making noise, why replace, especially since nothing is gained in terms of time, effort, or money. It's not like when it goes out that the vehicle is not drivable.
I suppose my curiosity is, what is the advantage to doing that?
The prevention of the disease costs as much in time and money as the actual disease, if you see my point. IF the CV joints are not making noise, why replace, especially since nothing is gained in terms of time, effort, or money. It's not like when it goes out that the vehicle is not drivable.
02-11-2009, 06:21 PM
#56
Did a lot of research using the Search function here, the consensus seems to be , "if your boot is cracked, replace the entire axle assembly".
I suppose my curiosity is, what is the advantage to doing that?
The prevention of the disease costs as much in time and money as the actual disease, if you see my point. IF the CV joints are not making noise, why replace, especially since nothing is gained in terms of time, effort, or money. It's not like when it goes out that the vehicle is not drivable.
I suppose my curiosity is, what is the advantage to doing that?
The prevention of the disease costs as much in time and money as the actual disease, if you see my point. IF the CV joints are not making noise, why replace, especially since nothing is gained in terms of time, effort, or money. It's not like when it goes out that the vehicle is not drivable.
If the boot is split, and you don't know how long it's been like that, it's more than likely that dirt has gotten into the joint, and is already starting to wear it down internally.
If you want to take the risk of having to replace it anyway further down the road, go ahead and replace the boot. That's just your personal preference
02-11-2009, 07:08 PM
#57
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
The way I look at it, replacing the axles on my Maxima was a lot more fun than walking on a treadmill at the YMCA like a dumb animal.
03-16-2009, 07:41 PM
#59
Update...
Did some more maintenance on the 97 today.
Replaced both hood struts with "Strongarms"
Drained radiator, flushed with a couple gallons of distilled water, ran it till warm, flushed again, then added a gallon of Toyota Red antifreeze.
Removed the tranny pan (I now sympathize with the other poster who complained about sore arms/shoulders after removing and reinstalling 21 bolts. What a PITA). I didn't even remove the screen when I got it off cuz I didn't want to mess with 6 more bolts.
I had purchased 4 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF...I was VERY surprised when I checked how much came out of the tranny; it was almost 6 1/2 qts. Don't recall reading anything about that amount of trans fluid.
Ran out to Napa and all they had was Royal Purple, so I bought 2 quarts of that AT $14+ PER QT. Made Mobil 1 ATF look like a real bargain at $7/qt. So now I guess I have Royal Mobil in the trans, or something like that.
Changed out the oil on my wife's Camry while I had the ramps out, used Penzoil Platinum in that. Lotta time laying on my back in my driveway today.
Replaced both hood struts with "Strongarms"
Drained radiator, flushed with a couple gallons of distilled water, ran it till warm, flushed again, then added a gallon of Toyota Red antifreeze.
Removed the tranny pan (I now sympathize with the other poster who complained about sore arms/shoulders after removing and reinstalling 21 bolts. What a PITA). I didn't even remove the screen when I got it off cuz I didn't want to mess with 6 more bolts.
I had purchased 4 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF...I was VERY surprised when I checked how much came out of the tranny; it was almost 6 1/2 qts. Don't recall reading anything about that amount of trans fluid.
Ran out to Napa and all they had was Royal Purple, so I bought 2 quarts of that AT $14+ PER QT. Made Mobil 1 ATF look like a real bargain at $7/qt. So now I guess I have Royal Mobil in the trans, or something like that.
Changed out the oil on my wife's Camry while I had the ramps out, used Penzoil Platinum in that. Lotta time laying on my back in my driveway today.
Last edited by trooplewis; 03-16-2009 at 08:08 PM.
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