For the guys with auto ecu w/ 5psd
For the guys with auto ecu w/ 5psd
Hey guys
Those that have done the 5spd converison and left the auto ecu, is there anyway to get rid of the 2 codes "park neutral switch" and "tcm transmission"
i need to pass inspection and cant pass it with it. i can not find a 5spd 99 FED ecu.
I have 2 wires jumping in the fuse box from the park and neutral, it tricks it only sometimes.
Also for those who have this setup, does your car randomly rev up especially when its cold all by itself?
Those that have done the 5spd converison and left the auto ecu, is there anyway to get rid of the 2 codes "park neutral switch" and "tcm transmission"
i need to pass inspection and cant pass it with it. i can not find a 5spd 99 FED ecu.
I have 2 wires jumping in the fuse box from the park and neutral, it tricks it only sometimes.
Also for those who have this setup, does your car randomly rev up especially when its cold all by itself?
You shouldn't have the P/N switch code. You don't have it wired up correctly.
I wired mine to the stock P/N harness in the engine bay, no codes.
You won't get rid of the auto codes, because you don't have an auto.
It shouldn't randomly rev up, but it will hang at ~2k when clutching in, coming to a stop, etc.
I wired mine to the stock P/N harness in the engine bay, no codes.
You won't get rid of the auto codes, because you don't have an auto.
It shouldn't randomly rev up, but it will hang at ~2k when clutching in, coming to a stop, etc.
codes
Hi there MaxFanatik this might sound stupid but in MA 95 and down is only safety so my light was on so I simply took out the bezel and the engine light out and wala !! engine light in on no more .. or do what pmohr said he knows his sh*t ..
i never did the swap bought the car this way....
but NJ is strict as hell, even tho the light is not on the code will still be there.... i guess i gotta keep looking for a fed ecu.
and it revs up when its cold as hell outside it revs up to 1600 and stays ther till it get warm....and ya the rest is the way u said it is at aorudn 1800
but NJ is strict as hell, even tho the light is not on the code will still be there.... i guess i gotta keep looking for a fed ecu.
and it revs up when its cold as hell outside it revs up to 1600 and stays ther till it get warm....and ya the rest is the way u said it is at aorudn 1800
i never did the swap bought the car this way....
but NJ is strict as hell, even tho the light is not on the code will still be there.... i guess i gotta keep looking for a fed ecu.
and it revs up when its cold as hell outside it revs up to 1600 and stays ther till it get warm....and ya the rest is the way u said it is at aorudn 1800
but NJ is strict as hell, even tho the light is not on the code will still be there.... i guess i gotta keep looking for a fed ecu.
and it revs up when its cold as hell outside it revs up to 1600 and stays ther till it get warm....and ya the rest is the way u said it is at aorudn 1800
thats just cause it's cold out.
mine does this rev up problem some times as well i cant help you with that I am trying to figure it out my self.
Does it do that intermittently? or all the time?
WOW are you kidding my car revs up 1500 everyday in the winter here in MN and take about 5-8min to go down depending on how cold it is out.
thats just cause it's cold out.
mine does this rev up problem some times as well i cant help you with that I am trying to figure it out my self.
Does it do that intermittently? or all the time?
thats just cause it's cold out.
mine does this rev up problem some times as well i cant help you with that I am trying to figure it out my self.
Does it do that intermittently? or all the time?
i dont care about the reving i got used to it.
i care about more how can i trick this ECU!
You'll never fully get around the 2 auto tranny codes, unless you have a auto in there. I had AT Comm line and one other one back when i had the JWT ecu in there.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
You'll never fully get around the 2 auto tranny codes, unless you have a auto in there. I had AT Comm line and one other one back when i had the JWT ecu in there.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
I ran with a 5MT ECU for a little while, it was amazing how much better it felt to drive the car. The little things like the throttle hanging affect how the car feels more than you'd think, until you drive a factory 5 speed.
You shouldn't have the P/N switch code. You don't have it wired up correctly.
I wired mine to the stock P/N harness in the engine bay, no codes.
You won't get rid of the auto codes, because you don't have an auto.
It shouldn't randomly rev up, but it will hang at ~2k when clutching in, coming to a stop, etc.
I wired mine to the stock P/N harness in the engine bay, no codes.
You won't get rid of the auto codes, because you don't have an auto.
It shouldn't randomly rev up, but it will hang at ~2k when clutching in, coming to a stop, etc.
The absolute worst...lol I still haven't gotten used to it...no realy way around it huh?
To the OP A 99 ecu is going to be hella hard to get your hands on...BUT your in luck...I'm going to PM this guy on NYCMaximas that was selling one. I can pick it up for you....here's the link to his f/s thread over on the other forum
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=38618
How far ar you in Jersey may you can pick it up...Also you need to get the key re-programmed I know someone out here that does it for cheap..I think like 60 buc or something. I'll ask my boy tomorrow..if you do pick it up PM me and I'll take you to the guy
maxima kid thanks.. i posted to see if he has it avialble... why would u need to reprogram the key? im not changing the ignition.
Last edited by MaxFanatik; Feb 9, 2009 at 10:09 AM.
You'll never fully get around the 2 auto tranny codes, unless you have a auto in there. I had AT Comm line and one other one back when i had the JWT ecu in there.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
My issue was shifting, when you clutch in to shift, the revs wouldnt drop properly causing the shifts to be a little jerky. IMO at first i didnt care, but after awhile it got kinda annoying.
ya 1st and 2nd gear is so annoying with the jerkyness!!
The cold start high idle is the IACV. And in related news...if you unplug your IACV, or do not use it, you will not get the rev-hanging when driving at lower rpms (coming to a stop, etc). I was auto ecu/5 speed for a long time and never had any problems until I re-installed my IACV. Then driving the car was absolutely OBNOXIOUS.
I do notice that even with the 5 speed ECU the iacv engages at low rpms but rather than like 2500, it is like 1500 (very low).
These IACV's suck.
I do notice that even with the 5 speed ECU the iacv engages at low rpms but rather than like 2500, it is like 1500 (very low).
These IACV's suck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




