Dealership Inspections
Dealership Inspections
Im new so hello everyone. 
Im thinking of purchasing a 95 Max with 112k miles.
I thought about taking it by a nissan dealership and getting a onceover.
Is this a good idea, if I want to know everything that needs attention?
Robert

Im thinking of purchasing a 95 Max with 112k miles.
I thought about taking it by a nissan dealership and getting a onceover.
Is this a good idea, if I want to know everything that needs attention?
Robert

A good small shop will cost you far less in the long run, and they're less likely to try to upsell you each and every little thing.
I would like to buy it, but I do want the CEL light checked out and Airbag light.
I don't know if he will let me run the codes on it, since you have to pop the cover off, and turn a ****.
I know a good mechanic, but he lives a few towns over, even further from where Id pu the car.
Im wiery of driving the car 35 miles to my house, because of the leak in teh radiator.
I don't know if he will let me run the codes on it, since you have to pop the cover off, and turn a ****.

I know a good mechanic, but he lives a few towns over, even further from where Id pu the car.
Im wiery of driving the car 35 miles to my house, because of the leak in teh radiator.
If i were you pull the VIN # run a Carfax check on it, i'm sure there is a .org member here that has a membership to that. Take lots of pics post them and let the member's here disect them. Knock on each of the panels to see if they've been repaired, look under the car for leaks, pull on the front tires to check for loose wheel bearings, how much tire tread is left? Brakes still good? Check all the fluids - brakes, oil color, ATF, Antifreeze? Any service records on hand? So much to think about when buying a used car. Good luck....
As long as the leak isn't too bad you'll be fine driving it. Just watch the temp gauge and bring extra water to top it off.
Protip - on a 4th gen you need to check all the regular car stuff plus be sure to look for rust on the lower radiator support. Do a search on that and you'll see why.
Protip - on a 4th gen you need to check all the regular car stuff plus be sure to look for rust on the lower radiator support. Do a search on that and you'll see why.
UPDATE: Checked the CEL code: 0707, which IIRC is the rear o2 sensor in the cat right?
He's replacing the radiator before I buy it because I think it might blow if I drive it to my house (35miles away).
I might take it by someone to give a once over at any rate, but nissan dealership wants $165 for a detailed inspection.
I wonder how many gaskets I need to do both valve covers.
Heres some pics in this thread -> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post6866005
Have to scroll up a bit.
lemme know what yall think, for $2000 (before radiator replace, $1800) I offered
He's replacing the radiator before I buy it because I think it might blow if I drive it to my house (35miles away).
I might take it by someone to give a once over at any rate, but nissan dealership wants $165 for a detailed inspection.

I wonder how many gaskets I need to do both valve covers.
Heres some pics in this thread -> http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post6866005
Have to scroll up a bit.
lemme know what yall think, for $2000 (before radiator replace, $1800) I offered
Last edited by Rob_0126; Feb 11, 2009 at 04:22 PM.
UPDATE: Checked the CEL code: 0707, which IIRC is the rear o2 sensor in the cat right?
He's replacing the radiator before I buy it because I think it might blow if I drive it to my house (35miles away).
I might take it by someone to give a once over at any rate, but nissan dealership wants $165 for a detailed inspection.
I wonder how many gaskets I need to do both valve covers.
He's replacing the radiator before I buy it because I think it might blow if I drive it to my house (35miles away).
I might take it by someone to give a once over at any rate, but nissan dealership wants $165 for a detailed inspection.

I wonder how many gaskets I need to do both valve covers.
Or you could just go OEM, prices aren't too bad through Dave B or Courtesy.
Who, Dave B? No, give him a call.
That's basically it, age. You'll also need RTV for the valve cover gaskets.
If you want to inspect it yourself I would check for these things at a minimum:
1. All the controls, lights, wipers, swtiches, and stuff inside works
2. The oil and the coolant aren't getting together and are the proper color. You'll typically get a chocolate milk type color if they mixed (blown head gasket).
3. Front end problems:
- Does the car drive straight down the road with your hands off the wheel? Any shakes at 70-80mph?
- Run your hands along the tread of all 4 tires. Check the inside and outside of tread in particular for uneven wear and a "choppy" feeling. If the tires are wearing even that is great. If not, it could be tire pressure, alignment, or front end parts are worn.
- Grab the front tires at 3 and 9 oclock. Shake and pull them side to side like you are trying to turn the wheels. There should be no clunking, banging or loose feeling. If there is that is probably tie rods.
- Grab the tires at 12 oclock and push/pull it vigorously. If it is loose or there are clunks you're probably looking at ball joints.
- Get under the front of the car with a flash light an look for torn boots on the ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner and outer cv boots. Those are easy to see when they are torn.
Those are easy to check and are the mostly likely components that would 1. fail with age, 2. keep you off the road, 3. be expensive to replace. There is lots more to check but that would be the minimum to help keep yourself from getting a lemon. At $2k any car that looks good an runs well is a relative bargain.
Last edited by 98maxse5spd; Feb 12, 2009 at 06:23 AM.
Yes. Supposedly it doesn't affect performance or mileage.
If you want to inspect it yourself I would check for these things at a minimum:
1. All the controls, lights, wipers, switches, and stuff inside works
2. The oil and the coolant aren't getting together and are the proper color. You'll typically get a chocolate milk type color if they mixed (blown head gasket).
3. Front end problems:
- Does the car drive straight down the road with your hands off the wheel? Any shakes at 70-80mph?
- Run your hands along the tread of all 4 tires. Check the inside and outside of tread in particular for uneven wear and a "choppy" feeling. If the tires are wearing even that is great. If not, it could be tire pressure, alignment, or front end parts are worn.
- Grab the front tires at 3 and 9 oclock. Shake and pull them side to side like you are trying to turn the wheels. There should be no clunking, banging or loose feeling. If there is that is probably tie rods.
- Grab the tires at 12 oclock and push/pull it vigorously. If it is loose or there are clunks you're probably looking at ball joints.
- Get under the front of the car with a flash light an look for torn boots on the ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner and outer cv boots. Those are easy to see when they are torn.
Those are easy to check and are the mostly likely components that would 1. fail with age, 2. keep you off the road, 3. be expensive to replace. There is lots more to check but that would be the minimum to help keep yourself from getting a lemon. At $2k any car that looks good an runs well is a relative bargain.
If you want to inspect it yourself I would check for these things at a minimum:
1. All the controls, lights, wipers, switches, and stuff inside works
2. The oil and the coolant aren't getting together and are the proper color. You'll typically get a chocolate milk type color if they mixed (blown head gasket).
3. Front end problems:
- Does the car drive straight down the road with your hands off the wheel? Any shakes at 70-80mph?
- Run your hands along the tread of all 4 tires. Check the inside and outside of tread in particular for uneven wear and a "choppy" feeling. If the tires are wearing even that is great. If not, it could be tire pressure, alignment, or front end parts are worn.
- Grab the front tires at 3 and 9 oclock. Shake and pull them side to side like you are trying to turn the wheels. There should be no clunking, banging or loose feeling. If there is that is probably tie rods.
- Grab the tires at 12 oclock and push/pull it vigorously. If it is loose or there are clunks you're probably looking at ball joints.
- Get under the front of the car with a flash light an look for torn boots on the ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner and outer cv boots. Those are easy to see when they are torn.
Those are easy to check and are the mostly likely components that would 1. fail with age, 2. keep you off the road, 3. be expensive to replace. There is lots more to check but that would be the minimum to help keep yourself from getting a lemon. At $2k any car that looks good an runs well is a relative bargain.
Airbag light on, the CEL was a rear o2 sensor. Don't know what would cause airbag light to come on in these cars.
Just a dirty engine is my only concern, however, at this age, what would i expect. Im not looking forward to doing valve covers but a really good Faq on it would help.

I hate electrical problems, and with age, I don't want to put too much tension on any of the wires or harnesses, when changing parts, and cause an electrical nightmare.
I am gonna replace all vac. hoses, as I do with all my vehicles.
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