hey, my rear valve cover gasket is leaking, does anyone have a how to or know how to and what tools i need to replace it? im pretty sure i can do it myself... when my dad asked the dealer they said $1300

 

you will need to remove the upper intake manifold to access the rear valve cover. no special tools are needed, you'll be fine with basic sockets and wrenches. You should also replace the upper intake gasket and EGR tube (to manifold) gasket since you'll be removing those.

 

also, i have the FSM if it helps can someone tell me what page its on?

 

im kind of a newb at terminology but the upper intake manifold is the silver metal thing right? and can you show me where the upper intake gasket and egr tube to manifold gasket is? like if i went to an autozone do i ask them for an upper intake gasket and egr tube?

 

You want an EGR tube gasket. Not the tube itself.

The upper is the big metal thing. The gasket is between the upper and the lower(you will see it, it is long black, 1/4" thick and has 6 ports.

 

The upper manifold is callout #2 on page EM-8 in the factory service manual. The gasket you need is shown between callout #2 and #9 (lower intake manifold). The EGR tube is on EM-11.

You would ask for a valve cover gasket, upper intake manifold gasket, and EGR guide tube gasket,

 

im sorry, but what are callouts?

 

everything that you are asking is available to you if you search!!! Check out some threads about changing your rear fuel injectors...It's an "how to" on that which outlines how to remove the UIM. Search is your bff. lol. Thats why I don't have tons of post. Before I ask, I search...most times I come up with the answer I'm looking for. Do the job in your drive way. The dealer will rape you with no lube if you take her to them!!lol If you can take things apart and remember how they go back together then you can do this job.

 

damn 1300??? lol I just paid 900 (still way to much) for a performance shop to put in the nwp spacers, remove the vias, and replace my valve cover, ignition coil, and plugs...oh and synth oil change lol

 

Wow! That's way too much!!!! All you need at least is a weekend and some common sense.

I noticed my front and rear gaskets are leaking too which is probably why I need to fill oil from time to time or when I drive aggressively. I will buy the over haul vq gasket kit on ebay and do it this spring when it is much warmer out. That 900 - 1200 could be some nice upgrades

 

dont have a weekend to do it, and no tools....i just might have common sense tho...who knows

 

Honestly if you even started in the morning you will be done by night if this is your first time. You WILL run into problems; hard to reach spots, don't have proper tools, etc. Who knows.

I say a weekend so after you finish you can enjoy the car after or if you have a problem you might be down for a day or so.

 

they did it in 4 hours....i cant complain to much...

 

damn man i could of done if for next to nothing for you. to bad i was away for a while, but then again i still have a bunch of projects to do myself

 

yeah i know...ive had people say after i did it lol!! i just never have time to commit to such a big project and im impatient when it comes to my car

 

If you can wait, just get a rebuild kit on eBay, cheaper than buying all of the gaskets individually (depending on source). Also, you should consider replacing the KS at this time if you have to, you're only a half dozen bolts away with the UIM off.

 

+1 makes replacing the KS a breeze.all you need is a 10mm or a 12 i cant really remember and a extension. and i agree with getting the gasket package as well you never know when you will need a new gasket on a sunday

 

A+1

 

I've got an invoice from the local Nissan dealership, previous owner had the valve cover gaskets and both belts replaced there. $650 labor for the whole job, I think the parts were about $60.

 

unless you know a chick or child with small enough hands

If you plan to do this yourself, the best thing to do is to read through the steps in the FSM (field service manual) *availible via Pmohr's home page - btw, thanks!* It's not a hard job, just time consuming. Worth doing it yourself to save the money if nothing else. I like to do my own work for so many reasons, money and self pride are the two biggest though. lol

 

or be a man...





My hands aren't small, but I sure as hell didn't want to unbolt no manifold. The only tip I can give you is buy a u joint tool or w/e its called that swivels around so you get that nice 50* bend. And when you go to install it, tape the knock sensor enough so it can stay on your tool so it don't fall. That's what I did and it worked wonders. Hope that helps!

 

the only real pain on taking out the UIM is those 2 bottom bolts there hard to find thats the only difficult part i ran into

 

use a mirror, work smart, not hard.

 

This thread is 2 years old but maybe it will go thru. I suspect my rear valve cover is leaking, but I can't see a darn thing either from above or below. I drips pretty much as described above. I know it is not leaking out the exhaust studs, it is higher. So either it is the VCG or perhaps some guru here knows another source. I have tried tightening WHAT I SUSPECT are valve cover bolts but who the heck knows for sure. They are tight...or at least what I'm tightening are.

I suspect the only way to get to them is to remove the intake collector, is this correct? Is that going to be a PITA? I have an FSM digital copy but apparently between 1982 and 1996 they turned the organization over to the Taliban and for the life of me I cannot find even a mention of the valve cover gasket much less a picture. So if any one has chapter and verse that would be very nice. I also need to replace the PVC...haven't found it either.

I'm familiar with the L28 and Chevy 350, but these FWD cars and sideways engines are a novelty. 200,000 miles and haven't had to do anything to this car other than replace brakes and the rubber cap on the front struts.

Thanks for any help as no way I'm paying Nissan $900 for this.

 

This stuff is in the "how to's" sticky under the 4th Gen section. Tighting bolts will not fix a leaking gasket, it will only snap bolts and cause you more problems. In order to replace the rear valve cover gasket you'll have to remove the upper intake manifold and other conjoined components. If you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself most shops charge about $400 for the job.

 

Yes, the intake manifold has to come off. It's an hour job, if that to replace the rear valve cover gasket. Rear valve cover removal is in EM, under timing chain.

I made a video on the whole job a while back, just need to get around to editing and uploading it, which may be next weekend.

I would be surprised if you could get on more than one or two valve cover bolts with the intake manifold still in place.

The PCV valve is just to the right of the throttle body, behind the cable drum.

 

Great idea on the video. I'll be looking forward to seeing it. Thanks for the PCV local. I never would have looked under timing chain replacement.