I'm planning on installing a 470k ohm resistor to bypass the KS. I was looking for feedback and tips from people who have done this or know enough about it. Has it panned out in the end, should it be soldered, any problems you may have run into, etc. I tried searching for a comprehensive thread on this topic, but came up otherwise empty handed. Thanks in advance.

what does this do?

bypasses the knock sensor^^

I haven't done it but that being said. I couldn't imagine it would be too difficult the only goofy thing is the KS appears to only have 1 wire on the harness but they are both in there.

Why not drop 40 bucks on ebay to get the A100 and have a actual knock sensor?

ive used this bypass for a little bit to determine if my ks was bad. I wouldnt recommend using it for a long time. Just until you can find a replacemnet

I have done this recently because a bad coil caused it to go. I have a '99 which means there's so much crap in the way of the KS that I will be probably taking off the manifold this summer. For now I have the resistor in there and I just stuck it in and put tape over both plugs. I only use premium fuel (shell) and I know what to do if it ever were to start knocking. I would say only use it as a temp fix because a KS is cheap insurance just a p.i.t.a. to replace.

i've been running the resistor for about the past year and no problems (premium fuel only). one thing i've noticed is that i do about 85mph @ 2950rpms whereas before 3000rpms had me doing 80mph - fuel savings? can't tell for sure, because my odo doesn't work, but i drive 25 miles/day (mixed), not sparing the throttle, and put about 13 gals each fill up (every 15 days - 11 or 12 of driving).

^^^ +1 yeah i wouldnt be using anything but prem fuel as you should be using it in the first place. but im guilty as charged to with the whole premium thing to but ill start using premium again when i put all my mods in

My knock sensor itself is fine, I had it replaced since the KS code came up. I have a few EVAP codes, but no time or money to go on a wild goose chase.

I've got a few 470K R's if you need one.

i actually did this last week to determine if it was my ks or bad or the harness, so im using the bypass until i get the harness

ONLY 91+ should be used with the bypass or you will blow up your engine....or cause detonation

If the KS and the harness are fine and the code is being triggered by something else, will the KS bypass trick work? The timing should still be set back to normal, right?

Haha I just read the how-to about this the other day, the author said that you should always be hearing for knocks since you are the human knock sensor and that you should be esspecially careful during hot days and take it easy on the throttle and such when you start to hear a knock

All credit goes to the original author of the how-to who I do not remember at the moment

Anyone?

The knock sensor shouldn't have anything to do with that. The only thing that will change that are gear ratios.

Yes. Use premium fuel from a good source and replace the KS before it gets warm out to be safe.

What would be the point of replacing my KS when I know it works? I already replaced the old one thinking it would fix the problem. I think my KS code is being triggered either by a faulty KS harness or more likely the EVAP problems I'm getting codes for.

Its there for a reason. Bypassing it is not a very smart idea.

oh snap didnt realize it was a evap problem and not a egr problem. yeah you may have a some un metered air coming though somewhere throwing off your a\f causing you to run lean. figure out your evap situation first. then go from there.

what evap codes do you have??

Try the resistor to see if the KS code goes away.