brandnew

iTrader: (5)

aight so tranny first i read this and got confused http://en.allexperts.com/q/Nissan-Re...ansmission.htm i didnt know there was a diff between flush and drain i have 160xxx on my tranny and dont know wether to do a flush or drain?

second my car shakes on the highway at various times during high speed... now i have changed inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, and control arms with ball joints and bushings.. now i have a loud hum coming from the front passenger wheel... guessing its a bearing and im going to replace this week.? could that make the car shake? i beleive i need struts to could that be it... i have the 04 se rims with 245/40/18 that prolly need replacing due to the wear of the tie rod sway bar links and control arms that were bad. i did have a an alignment done after that work but still get shaking??? thanks for the help in advance!

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

i think the general consensus on tranny drain vs flush is that when you have so many miles, there might be "stuff" inside the tranny holding it together and making it mesh properly, etc. , if you flush that "stuff" out, problems start occuring. atleast thats what i gather.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you search around at all? There's been at least one thread on flushing the auto within the last week. Don't flush, just drain. It's exactly what it sounds like, flushing (generally) involves a machine forcing fluid through the trans. Draining involves...draining and refilling.

For the shaking, have you not had the wheels balanced yet? Though for the cost, you might just want to wait until you get the new tires.

FYI, your sig pic is way too big.

650x488 (plus the second picture underneath it? 550x325 is the limit, overall.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-sig-pic.html

maximized98

iTrader: (16)

He wants everyone to see his led tails!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

brandnew

iTrader: (5)

actually was trying to put that pic into the avatar but couldnt figure out n didnt resize thats all..... but thanks for the help... n yes the tires have been balanced... n for sum reason search never pulls up what i want... i know how you get on every1 who doesnt search..

but if you have a bad wheel bearing isnt that dangerous? so shouldnt i change it since i do a lot of highway driving?

jdooley

I would have suggested balancing but pmohr beat me to it. Another tire related issue that can occur is delamination. It is an insidious tire failure that doesn't always show up during a balance. It can be looked for while the tire is on the balancer and will typically look like a side to side motion in the tread but can also manifest as an out of round condition. If not being looked for it can be overlooked.
Another thought, I recently found one of my front axle nuts about a quarter-turn loose which was enough to create some very horrific noises in the left front end.
One last question, does the shaking tend to want to twist the steering wheel out of your hands or is it more subtle than that?
Leaving any worn component in the front end to linger too long is rarely a good idea because they tend to create a cascade failure. Example worn shocks can cause cupping on tires and bad tie rod ends can cause uneven tire wear as well as slow destruction of other components in the steering/suspension.
I just thought of one more thing, did you check or otherwise replace the inner tie rod ends?

jdooley

Sorry, I just re-read that you did replace inner tie rod ends.

JerseyDrape

I also have a hum in the passenger front wheel. Whirling sound at highway speeds. There's play at 3 and 9 indicating tie rod problems, but could the bearing be bad with no 12 and 6 play?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes.

JerseyDrape

Thank you for the reply. I don't mean to hijack this thread but I'm too new to post my own thread... That being said, I've been searching these forums for the past few days trying to diagnose my problems.

Like I said there's 3 and 9 play in the wheel, and there is also some oil all over the back of the block and on the LCR. I'm going to inspect to see if it's leaking from the steering rack. But my question is could a bad steering rack have play in only one side, and not the other? My driver side front wheel has no play in it at all, it's just the passenger. Or is the only way to have play from a bad tie rod, with the leak being a secondary issue?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Bad tie rod end on the pass side .... if the rack is leaking, you'll need to replace it. Kevlo911 did a write up on it - just search. That 'oil' could be from the CV joint as well ... gotta check and see. If it's PS fluid, you should be able to tell just by looking at the rez.

To tell if the bearing is bad, lift and support the car, spin the tire and listen. If the bearing is bad, it'll make a 'rubbing' sound. If there's excess play at 12 / 6 it's likely a hub issue (which includes the bearing).

To the OP:

Could be a bad axle causing the shimmy too. I agree with not flushing, just drain a fill. If you flush a trans with that many miles on it, you'll blow the seals and possibly pumps. Yikes!!!

Bassbreaker

iTrader: (8)

hum + wobble at high speeds = bad wheels bearing

Has1Shame

just sounds like your wheels aren't balanced... is your tranny smacking into gears? or is it just when you drive... id say drain and fill