Ok....my 1995 GLE with 270K won't start. It started with a hard start issuse and the starter went. So i bought a new starter and it turned over really strong. I figured it was the CPS(POS) but when i got another junkyard one, it still never went. I changed the camshaft position sensor with a new one and still no start. My plugs arn't getting spark. Would the CPS(POS) cause this? If it jumped it timing would it cause no spark. The only codes i have are for the Camshaft PS and O2 sensor...I don't know what to do...

any suggestions?

 

Yes, the CKPS POS can cause a no spark issue. Same with the CKPS REF or the CPS.

Hard starting or erratic cranking can throw a CKPS REF or CPS code, FWIW. I'd still check continuity on the CPS harness from the engine bay to the ECU.

The chances of it jumping timing enough to cause no spark is slim.

Checked the grounds on the LIM?

 

i never checked the grounds on the LIM mainly cause i do not know where they are to. Do the fsm show where it is? I'll check the continuity of the harnesses tomorrow to see if they are in spec

 

It's just the two ground straps bolted onto the LIM at the front, in between the #2 and #4 injectors, IIRC.

 

R u a nissan mechanic or something?? How do you know so much about this stuff. LOL sorry don't mean to thread jack I just need to know this

 

I've been a mechanic at Nissan, several smaller shops, a Nissan performance shop, etc.

But mostly I just read a lot, the best way to learn short of doing it hands-on.

 

thanks pmohr, no trouble to tell you are/were a mechanic. I'll check those few things tomorrow but i don't think there would be anything wrong with the grounds because i never touched them...it either has to be the CPS(REF) or CPS(POS). And My money is on the (POS) one.

 

yeah test the CPS, look for a resistance of 1,440-1760 ohms for the hitachi andd 2,090-2,550 for the mitsu. if the lights on for the CPS why did you replace the CKPS(REF)? whats the location of the sensor you changed?

 

I changed out the cps(POS) and Camshaft PS but the (POS) one i got from a junk yard and for all I know it wasn't working in the 1st place. It's not the camshaft PS so i'm hoping Nissan will take it back.

 

I vote PMOHR to be a moderator

 

Ah, if only.

 

So the Camshaft position sensor never worked($125) and nissan won't take it back. This is bull. Did anyone else ever have trouble bringing electrical parts back? The tech there said they have special tape that when under a certain light has the nissan logo on it. Is he bull chiting me?I'm not buying more parts from them if they won't help me out. It's not fair. He never told me that i couldn't bring it back if i used it and it only said that no returns on electrical parts on the invoice...scammmmm

 

From what I've seen, most parts departments will have 'No refunds on Electrical or Special Order parts' on a sign up by the counter.

Generally speaking you can't return used parts to a dealership either.

Depending on the parts guy, they may very well do the return anyway, especially if you know them.

 

I don't know him...and he said he could take it back, send it to where he gets it from, and if they say ok, he'll give me credit. But he also said that it was a 60 day process....
I'm gonna try calling their GM and see if he'll do me a favor..

 

hey phmor, or anyone else,

the FSM states to check the CPS(POS) to connect it to the harness connector, turn the ignition to "on" and check voltage between terminals 2 and 3 when quickly bringing a screwdriver close to, and keeping away from the sensor core. My question is how do you get at the terminals if the connector is plugged in?

the other 2 cps's are only easy cause you just take them out and check resistance....

 

FWIW there's only one CPS, and two CKPS'.

You backprobe the connector with the leads on the multimeter, or use some paperclips or something.

 

this is the multi meter i have.


as you can see the probes are like pens. I don't know what you mean my back probe and you can see from the kind i have why i was confused on how to get to the terminals while it was plugged together

 

Back probing it means...probing it from the back.

You can shove those leads in the back of the connector, through the weather packing. Or, again just use paperclips or somesuch.

 

ok...i'll give it a shot when i get home...hope it works...well if the other 2 test out ok, then it should be that one. It's the one that has given me trouble before. i'll pull the codes again to see what comes out. Thanks

also, would the CPS(POS) being shot cause this no spark issue i'm having? Or is that just related to the camshaft PS

 

So, i checked the camshaft PS, it was in spec. Checked the CPS(REF), it to was in spec.
BUT
The CPS(POS) was giving a really weird reading. instead of fluxuating between 0 and 5volts, it was fluxuating between 11.5 and 6 volts. What does this mean? It was really confusing me...phmor? lol

 

bump...i find this really odd....why would it be showing more voltage than what's supposed to be going through it?

 

BUMP

anyone? I tried 2 different CPS(POS)'s and got the same results

 

i just read over an older thread, and pomhr, you were commenting on it. The guy never had spark in 2 of his coils. It really wanted to start (like mine does) but it just wouldn't. Turned out his timing was off by one tooth. he just brought it to a mechanic and got it done. That would cost a small fortune. I hope mine never jumped it's timing because i cannot afford to bring it somewhere to get it done. And I do not have the garage to do it myself...let alone if i did do it myself it would probably take a full weekend or more. I really think it's the CPS(POS) tho cause it's giving me these weird voltages.

Does anyone have any feedback on why it would be doing this??


althought now to think of it, the problem was gradually getting worse till my starter died...i don't see how it could "gradually skip a tooh/teeth"

 

Bassbreaker
I would check the harness and sub-harness for right voltage numbers and continuity
page EC-268 and 269
then go to page 270
good luck

 

it'll have to wait till tuesday now...i have the fsm at work where i can open it...no adobe on my home comp

could you tell me what the voltages should be? I could check em out tomorrow then and report back quicker..

 

links to 4 pictures from fsm,
click picture to get bigger view
right mouse click on each picture and choose save to location on your comp
then print them for easy reading when working on your car.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=71srkl&s=5
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=34eccn8&s=5
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=rjqe4p&s=5
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2h4gth5&s=5
s

 

thanks man...i'll go check out to see if there is 5 volts coming from the harness itself...

 

well.....I can't afford insurance on 2 cars and the max has been a money pit for the past 4 or 5 months. I'm sure the other .org members would like some of the parts i have. I'm gonna start a thread on a full part out in the next day or so.
It's a black on black GLE...full car..most everything is mint...all power options work

 

i'll try this again. I really want to get the car started at least. I put in a new CPS(POS), Camshaft PS and it still will not start. I checked the codes and all that was there was 0505 (not codes detected) What could it be. It REALLLLY wants to start, but just won't fire up.

 

I'm starting to get starting issues... just wanted to see if your issue got solved.

Thanks.

 

are your starting issues like this threads at all? do you have spark? have you grounded your starter? have you changed your plugs? are all coils firing? have you checked your crank sensors? is your starter going out?mileage on the car?

 

A month or so ago the car would start instantly.
It's a Maxima 99 GXE auto with 106000 miles on her. Right now it's a delayed, slow start. I checked battery before starting the car 12.5V When car is running battery shows 14.5V if I turn on the lights, radio and heater and/or AC the battery will show 14.1V
That's all the checking I did.
I think battery/alternator are OK. What should be my next step?
Thank you for your reply.

 

when did you last change your plugs, ngks should be your next move,
also if youve had tranny work re-ground your starter.
then check all your coils ohms.
after that i would start looking for an OEM starter rebuild.
also, take a look at your starter switch, it solved my issue.

 

1 Plugs were changed at 60K and 100K. I used Nissan OEM plugs both times.
2 No tranny work was ever done on the car.
3 I swapped out all of my coils between 36K and 70K. Every time CEL went on I'd find the one that's bad and install a new coil. No CEL at present time. Is it worth checking?
4 Will look for OEM reman starter - they are pricey! The ones at www.rockauto.com click at $210 + shipping. Ouch! Don't know a better place.
5 I saw videos and read some on disassembling the starter switch. However I don't know what to do with it once I get there. It's just a switch on a bunch of wires. Do I cut the wires and solder on the new one, or will the wires end with a connector of some sort?

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

its just a plug, you unscrew the switch per the tutorial, unplug it from the harness, and plug in the replacement,
since you have such good repair record i would def change your starter switch first, its a 28 dollar repair and it should fix at least some of the problem.
you could always fish the classifieds for a starter like i did, mine was free cause i bought a bunch of other parts but they shouldn't be to much.
but unless your starter starts to go terminal i would wait for such an expensive purchase.

i dont know what OEM nissan plugs are, but NGK's are the choice of the board. not saying your wrong, just mentioning.