I just changed my clutch master cylinder and its taking forever to get some good pressure on my clutch, however the rod on the slaves does move, but the clutch pedal pressure is low. Ive been bleeding this for the past two days. I just bought a slave cylinder today to change it and see if it makes a difference. Does it normally take this long?

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

Are you bleeding at both bleeders?

BENCH BLEED?????????

I am using both bleeders, it worked once, but i wasnt happy with how it felt going into gear so i decided to bleed it again, then nothing after that

...yes, bench bleed.

Quick article on it: http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...nch/index.html

oh ok. no i havent, but would i need to do that for the clutch master cylinder, thought thats for the brakes?

its the same exact thing except the clutch works backwards..

since you removed the master cylinder you need to bleed the entire system which is a b;tch and a half.. it takes for ever...

just have a patient person helping you..

Same thing, different word.

I bench bled mine, didn't have an issue bleeding at all after that.

Then again, I am using the full SS clutch line. Makes everything so much easier.

Thats funny, we got it to work but there is still air in the line, because the clutch comes and goes. It really takes patience, and i lack alot of that

would it be possible if i could see pics of the line, i was thinking of removing all of the stock line and run a straight one to the slave from the master

ok im still having problems, im still bleeding, it goes in gear enough so i can drive, but i have to practically fight with the car to get it in gear. now im wondering if i put i longer rod in the slave if that will make ite better, because when we use a bar and push the fork, it engages in gear easy, but im open for suggestions.

11 minutes a 37 seconds

lucky you lol

did you get it to work. i have similar problems but my clutch jus drops to the floor.

for sure..it makes a night and day difference

PICS PLZZZZZZZZ

What's to take pics of?

It's just a SS braided line that goes directly from master to slave, bypassing all of the stock crap they call a clutch line. Eliminates the upper bleeder, too.

I swapped my car so between all of the crap that goes on there stock, or a single $40 line, it was an easy choice.

ok, i still havent figures it out, i changed the rod to a slightly longer one from a toyota celica, it worked for 5 min while the engine was running, then as soon as i was ready to drive the car, it began giving trouble. I havent bled the system as yet since i have put in the longer rod, so i am gonna try that sometime this week. also the old rod that came out the slave has visible worn damage at the edges, so im now wondering if the fork is bent. awwwwwwww I blame all of this on the pressure plate :-(

been thinking about doing single line...

I'm a natural manual but never liked having to bleed both lines....

suuuure... blame the pressure plate


stock PP?

Bleed the system and see how the car reacts then. Why did you upgrade to a longer rod? Longer rod will lead towards less travel for the TOB... might not be able to engage/disengage well. Could result is drasticly shortened lifespan of your clutch.

I changed the rod because there was play between the fork and the pressure plate and when i pry on the fork it engages in gear very well, so the current rod isnt travelling far enough to disengage the PP, however the rod that i changed used to work before, so the only thing i can think of if when I bleed the system again and it doesnt work is that the fork is bent. hopefully when i bleed it will work, im also wondering if the slave isnt holding the pressure, because it worked then stopped.

I have a ACT extreme PP in the car, any suggestiions plz

Yea. your using a longer rod so its cant travel enough via peddle to engage/disengage. Get another 4th gen or correct length rod, or just get a whole new slave and install it. Bleed the system and see the results. If problems still occur you can start looking bigger like it being the PP or something inside the transmission

Thats honestly my issue right now, the slave is new, but I'm goin to try the dealer slave, i also heard the dealer slave and master are a 1/4 " longer than the aftermarket ones, can anyone confirm

Ok, its working now. I eliminated the stock lines that run from the master to the slave, and now its working fine (knock on wood)

So you bought the SS line? Where did you get it from? I'm waiting on mine now.

SS LINE????????? i was asking about it and no one told me what it was. I just went with a line from NAPA, and created my own line

...we told you what it was above. Just a stainless steel braided hose that runs from master to slave. Only $40 in the classifieds.

takes about 30 min by myself when i watch the spanish channel. oh you mean the car?

oh ok my bad, I was thinkinf steel braided lines but that NAPA line was what was available to me at the time and I just wanted to see if that was my problem. Ill put in the SS line because i still havent removed the stock lines as of yet. Im just happy its not my pressure plate.

Do you guys have any cooling problems with the fluid?

this is the same exact problem i have dont know why

Try to change the lines

I spent a couple hours trying to bleed that idiotic stock setup alone when i swapped to a manual, then I decided to bypass the 2nd bleeder and run right to the slave. I used the stock rubber hoses and ran a hard line to the rubber hose, then it bled out in 5 minutes alone...

Same here, saved me alot of stress and time

did any one know what to do whit this problem

Sorry for the late reply, my problem is now solved, my fork was bent, but wasnt noticeable but it finnally gave out and broke, so we had to drop the transmission and change it, i also wanted to change my PP, but when we were ready to put it in the auto store gave me the wrong f---ing one, so i had to put back in my old one, which i believe contributed to the bent fork. anyway, car drive perfect now (knock on wood)