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Hi...

I looked at all the pictures... I can't see how to get in there and change the knock sensor without removing the intake manifold.

Any info, please send message.

 

If you've seen the pictures and you've seen the video, yet still can't 'see how to get in there'...then we can be of no help to you.

There is really no way better to explain than pics and a video. Short of someone being there in person moving you around like a puppet, that's the best that can be done.

 

I finally was able to break the screw loose with a socket, swivel and extension, then made use of my 12 yr old son's small hands to do the rest. All is great with the KS, but I am now seeing code 1005, which did not show up before the KS was replaced. Are they related, or just coincidence? Thanks.

 

1005 is EGR soleniod valve. I do not thing they are related

 

Thanks for the help. Looks like I have another part to fix.

 

yo man...this is a pain in the ***!!!!. I can fit my hands in there so i guess i should be able to do it. Im having trouble fitting the wrench inside. Any hints?? I was lookin for stuff to remove to make access even easier

 

You don't need to remove anything (unless you have a '99). Get yourself ~9-12" extension and a universal joint. Duct tape them all together to prevent them coming off and getting stuck on the bolt (just to prevent anger later).

So it'll go:

Socket -> 9-12" extension -> u-joint -> socket.

Easy as pie. I just did this last weekend on my GF's car and it took like 20 min total.

 

thats an AWESOME idea....i jus ordered the knock sensor from ebay so im still waiting for it to arrive. I have the socket wrench and extension just no U-joint. Im headed to the hardware store. I love easy fixes. Thanks.

 

Don't thank me, thank the .Org

 

Dude!!!

I got the u-joint and still no dice. That bolt is on there freaking tight!!! So frustrating. I was tryin for 1/5 hrs and After much pain and cursing i jus gave up. I need to get atop of the bolt to really torque it. Tryin to torque it at an angle jus aint workin. I made the most progress with the 12mm wrench but i dont have clearance to really torque it that way either. But im not gonna give up... Ima try another day. Try to spray some WD-40 down on that bolt! So it who is boss lol

 

Skip the WD-40, go for something a little more potent like PB Blaster. Good luck.

 

I'm new to this whole forum thing. I tried this myself and it was not as easy as you lead it to be... lol, but it was also my very first time working on anything under the hood.... After a couple bloody knuckles I managed to finish this within an HOUR! I did use electrical tape to hold everything together when I put it back together which I couldn't have done without it! Thank you so much for your pictures and details because I would never have finished this or much less found the knock sensor! PS... I ordered mine off ebay for $24 with free shipping!

 

I have no check engine light, but i have 4 codes:

Intake Air Temp, Speed Sens, Knock Sens and 1 other i forget.

So there are quite a few that dont trigger a CEL, id say if you can throw a scanner on every once in a while just to be sure, i had problems but if its something that doesnt throw a code it might not make a noticeable diff in driving, especially if it was gradual.

 

anyone in central nj willing to help me with this for some quick cash?

PM me.

 

Dont give up man...the KS isnt that hard to remove. The only problem is that the KS bolt may be on too tight. In that case, u need to use a 12mm wrench and attach the closed end around the bolt. Then using 2 long socket extensions (or somethin long lever) and the engine block as a sort of a pivot point, u shd be able to apply enough torque to remove the bolt. Thats what i did and it freakin worked!!!

Its def worth replacing it. It took my several tries but in the end i was able to do it

 

Agree. It is really quite easy. pmohr even has a video clip for that. Good luck.

 

will give it another try this weekend. thx

 

thanx for the writeup with the pics made it easy to stick the ratchet in there and open the bolt with minimal cursing.

 

Hey guys, just recently picked up my 97 GLE auto with approx 169k miles, when I purchased it the SES light was on, figured no big deal since I know Maxima's will trigger an SES for damn near anything. Had it scanned, 2 codes, EGR (dgaf) and KS, I was a little worried about the KS code, hoping the KS was just failing and it hadn't actually registered a knock. Had the codes deleted but the light came back on a couple days ago (as I figured it would)

This time there were 3 codes, the EGR and now 2 KS codes, and the KS codes could not be deleted. Now I'm starting to get worried. Do you guys know if the KS codes are just piggybacking from the EGR? I'm just worried now that theres 2 codes instead of 1...I can't determine if my engine is actually knocking or not, there is kind of a ticking sound in the engine bay but nothing really major...the car seems to be driving fine other than it's un-predictable starting patterns on occasion. But I guess I wouldn't really know what a strong VQ is supposed to feel like if I haven't had the car since it was new....what do you guys think?

I just had a go at taking the sensor out to see if it was damaged but it sure was a *****, I think I'll just try another time, hopefully I won't even have to tho and we can get this figured out before another attempt is necessary.

I don't have the code #'s, but I can go back and get them tomorrow if it's really necessary...thanks for the help in advance!!

 

my check engine light came on, i pulled the codes and it came up as the know sensor..no other codes...

 

my 95 maxima's cel came on and only the ks code is there...any one have any ideas as to why..thanks

 

the ecu isnt getting a signal from it you probably need to replace it

 

i think it will light a CEL unplug your KS and drive your car the CEL will come on

 

I also pulled the evap and ks codes the other day. P0325 and P1447. My mpg is still ok, kinda varries between 22 and 31, and engine seems to run smooth. You think I should replace my knock sensor? Any suggestions on how the evap code could be fixed?

 

Honestly it so easy to change that u SHOULD replace it. SEARCH. The How to is pretty self explanatory. As i have already explained the hardest (most frustrating part) is gettin the KS bolt to loosen. Once that is accomplished, the rest is pretty cake.

 

Yeah i think i can manage changing it...knock on wood...but can i dicsonnect that green plug thats in the way? If thats outta there it would be much easier to access the ks. It says to tighten the bolt by hand and theres no way in hell i can fit my hand in there

 

yo dat chets **** i havent had to replace mine yet but i think i might thanks for the heads up

 

I bought one of those $75 mini computer examiners and it's giving me a faulty knock sensor code. Have 176K on my Maxima, but I've had no engine problems. I guess I need to try your technique. Thanks. A big help.

 

Use a long handle flex head wratchet ($22 @ Sears). Pop on a 12mm, manuever the wratchet under the UIM, and lay it flat over the bolt. The raised handle will still allow you the leverage to "break" or loosen the bolt. From there go in with a small 12mm wrench to finish loosening the bolt. Don't forget to wrap your wrist and hand with Duct Tape if you are going to stick your arm under the UIM. You will thank me later.

 

LOL, the 2nd part is right, but it's not easy!

OK, I did this about 6 months ago on a 97 and I did it today on my kid's 96. It STILL is not easy, you need to have someone available with small hands. I tried and tried and I could not make it work with a box wrench.

Here is how I finally got mine changed:

1) had to remove the airbox and resonator box, in the process I removed the clip connections for the MAF sensor and whatever that other one is right necxt to it.

2) Unclipped and set aside the electrical connector that sits right in front of the entrance to the KS

3) Put a 90 degree swivel and #12 socket on a 12 inch ratchet extension. You can set this right on top of the bolt and get enough leverage to break it loose.

4) Called my youngest son out to snake his hand in there and unscrew the bolt the rest of the way. Then I had him start the threads on the bolt when I had the new one installed. All I had to do then was tighten it the last 1/4 turn to snug it down.
Both times he went to put his hand in there he had to 'figure out" how to twist/turn/bend his hand to get it in. Once it's in, there is plenty of room to tighten or unscrew the #12 bolt.

5) Re-connect the intake plumbing and all the electrical stuss that I had removed.

Total time, about 40 minutes.

So if you are frustrated because it seems like it should be easy and it's not, you are not alone. It can be done with the right tools, but it still ain't easy!!

 

I just did mine this weekend, I did the first three steps described above except I don't have kids (there was no way my big *** hands would fit in there). Since I was by myself I used the socket/swivel/extension and ratchet to remove the bolt all of the way. I then used some long pliers to reach in there and grab the bolt. Then I swapped out the old sensor (it was cracked all around) with the new one. To get it back in there I put the bolt through the sensor and used a piece of masking tape to tape the socket (with swivel and extension attached) on the bolt (the tape stuck over the socket and on the sides of the sensor). I put just enough on to hold it together. I then snaked it in, lined it up, and slowly screwed it in; the masking tape tore off as i turned the bolt (If you put too much tape on you'll have trouble). Once it was snug I stopped using the socket/swivel/extension and used the pliers again to remove the remaining masking tape I could reach. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. If you have big hands try doing it this way, there's no way you'll get your hands in there. The car runs much better now.

 

Easiest way to get at the bolt is with a 12mm flex head socket that's a 1/4" drive with a 9-12" extension. I bought a 12mm Snap-on socket off eBay, worth every penny of the $12 I paid for it for this job.

 

I have a 02 and i was told that the knocking, pinging, made by my car was from a bad sensor. Does anyone suggest that the problem is the Knock sensor?

 

Sounds like the KS is the problem.

There are a lot of methods to replacing the KS. SEARCH this thread.

Its a PITA but its not hard to DIY.

 

YEs u can unplug the green connector. Jus make sure to plug it back in before u start the car.

use the 12mm wrench once u have managed to loosen the bolt.

Took me 3 days, 20 bucks in new tools, blood, sweat, tears, and lots of profanity but i was able replace it in the end.

 

thanks for the words of encouragement.

 

ok, I just disconnected my MAF and my car wouldn't do that knocking/ping sound or shake. But when I connected it back, the knocking/ping, shake began, so what do you all think is the problem, knock sensor, MAF or both?

 

Well, it's time for me to replace my KS AND an O2 sensor. Least that's what the code reader says. Glad to find this thread with the info and the pictures. Took the "bull by the horns" and went str8t to eBay. Ordered a ks for about $22 from a vendor and immediately got back a reply that my order was placed. It's free shipping from Wisconsin I believe so it will probably take a bit to get here. After I get it and install it I'll come back with my .02

As to the O2 sensor. I checked with Courtesy Nissan in TX and they want $129. Geeeeesh. Again, looking on eBay. Much more reasonable. Anybody suggest one? I'm thinking the Denso O2 sensor. Cheers

 

is the part # on the our cars 22060P? does that mean that any 22060P knock sensor will work on ours cars, like even the ones off the pathfinder, reason asking cause if you go on courtesy nissan..some knock sensors are like 28 bucks for brand new oem sensors, wondering if i could put that on the max