MaximaMan

My problem:
This has to do with vibration in the steering wheel. AS i drive down the freeway around 80mph my steering wheel picks up a very appearent vibration/shimmy. At 60mph its a very slight vibration, but as i go faster the vib. worsens. My alignment is golden, i just got new tires put on and my car drives straight as an arrow. What could be the problem?
PART 2.
I live in Utah so driving up and down our canyons can be pretty fun untill this started to happen as well. AFter driving down the canyon and using my breaks frequently when i press the breaks to slow down just a litlte....not even hard breaking but just to stop speeding up my car vibrates too! Harder i press the breaks the harder my steering wheel and cars vibrates. I wouldn't be surprised if the two problems go together.

What advice can u give me? Anytthing i can look at at home, or questions to ask my nearby garage? Thanks a lot (in advance)
Brandon

AndyXXL

Could be a reason due to damaged hub, wheel bearing or unbalanced tire. It's really hard to warp a hub but that somehow happened to me. My steering wheel was vibrating after 60 mph and while applying brakes too. There is no way to check for damaged hub, the only way to find out is to replace it along with wheel bearing.

kaniksu

My car doesn't vibrate with speed, but does so with braking. The harder I brake the harder it vibrates. Feels like my car is going to fall apart.

Alec

AndyXXL

That's a sign of warped rotors.

clee130

Daniel B. Martin is no longer with us for the time being.

MaximaRversion2

looks like i need new rotors too

MaximaMan

Where'd Daniel Go? I haven't checked in ehre for a long time and next thing i know our greatest asset is gone?

cbr2

iTrader: (1)

Definitly Rotors.. (100%) and they will only get worse and the vibration will cause damage of other parts.. This job is quite easy.. But you will want to replace your pads at the same time.. You remove your wheel and look on the back of the caliper.. You will see 2 bolts.. (14 mm) I think) you remove these.. Now pull your caliper off (you might need to pry it off.. Now remove your old pads.. You will now see that your rotor would come off easy if it were not for the caliper bracket.. If you look on the back side of the backet you will it affixed by 2 large bolts. So take a 17mm(maybe 19MM) open end (using the closed side of it) place it on and break the bolt free, I use a hammer because I am small and weak.. Taking these bolts off your bracket will now fall off.. Now in the center of the rotor there might be a phillips head screw.. You need to remove this.. Now pull the rotor off.. If you are having problems removing it because it is rusted on.. You need to find a bolt that fits those small holes in the center part of the rotor.. It will pop off then.. After that install in reverse order.. Using lock-tite on the bolts that hold the caliper bracket only!.
GL

CFster

Copywrite infringement?

Vinipux

have your mechanic TURN the rotors, and that will stop, that's all

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

where did u get that idea?

CFster

It was a question. I have no factual evidence to support a claim like that...

CFster

mattC

iTrader: (2)

hey colin... you're back! w00t!

- matt

CFster

WAAASUUUP!!!