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Big Starting problem. Please Help!!

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Old May 27, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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Big Starting problem. Please Help!!

I read most of the threads here that relates to car starting problem. but i cant seem to find a solution to my issue

Info about my Max

98 Max SE 5spd
DEK motor with no EGR
pathfinder cams
bigger injectors
3.5 oil pump

here is my problem

my car has starting problems. it cranks but takes forever to get it started. sometimes it makes a sound that seems to me like it backfires. Also sometimes theres no crank but it makes this sound similiar to(as if when the car is on and you turn the key more) that.

1)I purchased a OEM rebuilt Starter
2)both crank sensors
3)Grounded wires to the chasis,starter negative bolt and negative battery terminal
4)checked my fuses

Sometimes, Im not getting any crank. and when i do. it just keeps cranking but no start..

please help me out guys

thanks

I am getting no good turnaround to this situation. If you guys might know what else i need to replaced.. please leave your input
Old May 27, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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ects
Old May 27, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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i have the same prob did u buy starter from advance auto parts? i hate that sound
Old May 28, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mrjamaica98mx
i have the same prob did u buy starter from advance auto parts? i hate that sound

no. i bought my new rebuilt starter at a local rebuilder around my zip code..im going back to him today to have him check the starter
Old May 28, 2009 | 08:33 AM
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First, any codes?

Did this occur with the DE, or just with the DE-K?

Did you swap the flywheels? Made sure you didn't damage the timing ring?

Did you do anything immediately prior to this starting problem?

What size injectors, and have you done any sort of tuning?
Old May 28, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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The starter grounds through the transmission bell housing. Sometimes corrosion gets between the contact surface of the two halves of the transmission. Run a jumper strap (any gauge wire will do) from one of the starter bolts to a bolt on the other side of the trans. Just for good measure, you can continue running it to the negative battery terminal.
Old May 28, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
First, any codes?

Did this occur with the DE, or just with the DE-K?

Did you swap the flywheels? Made sure you didn't damage the timing ring?

Did you do anything immediately prior to this starting problem?

What size injectors, and have you done any sort of tuning?
as far as codes. yes .. they are EGR and EVAP. but im sure i dont have the EGR but not 100% sure about evap

no i didnt swap the flywheel. but i check for ring damages.. theres none

this was happening to my DE before i did the DEK. after i did the dek swap. it still starts but delayed. cranks for a while before starting

no i havent gotten the time to do any tuning

i believe the injectors were from a 3.5 but not 100%
Old May 28, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ptatohed
The starter grounds through the transmission bell housing. Sometimes corrosion gets between the contact surface of the two halves of the transmission. Run a jumper strap (any gauge wire will do) from one of the starter bolts to a bolt on the other side of the trans. Just for good measure, you can continue running it to the negative battery terminal.

i've tried that as well.. still no good..
Old May 28, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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i feel like the car wants to start. the way the car csound while its cranking. feels like its gonna start but it dies again cranks and repeats itself.. could it be the fuel pump or fuel filter?
Old May 28, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Have you tried to see why it won't start? Does it not get fuel, or spark?

Sure the both of the CKPS' and the CPS are all good? Bolted in place and the connectors fully locked in place with no corrosion or debris in there?
Old May 28, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Have you tried to see why it won't start? Does it not get fuel, or spark?

Sure the both of the CKPS' and the CPS are all good? Bolted in place and the connectors fully locked in place with no corrosion or debris in there?
yes.. those are checked throughly and patiently. all those are in there good no corrosion
Old May 28, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopee
yes.. those are checked throughly and patiently. all those are in there good no corrosion
So again...fuel, spark, what?

And did you actually test them?
Old May 28, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Have you tried to see why it won't start? Does it not get fuel, or spark?

how can check for those? if i take out the fuel pump.. the oring gasket will break and will not be able to reinstall without a o-ring replacement.. as far as spark plugs.. that i havent checked. but get that checked out tomorrow with the Spark plug puller..
Old May 28, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopee
how can check for those? if i take out the fuel pump.. the oring gasket will break and will not be able to reinstall without a o-ring replacement.. as far as spark plugs.. that i havent checked. but get that checked out tomorrow with the Spark plug puller..
Why would you take out the fuel pump? That would be the opposite of what you want to do, since without a pump you no longer get flow...

Make sure you're getting a good amount of fuel up front (assuming you don't have or don't want to get a fuel pressure gauge), pull a coil and make sure you're getting spark from it.

Personally I'd pull up one of the rails and check for flow, or at least get a noid light.

Is your ECU getting power? CEL come on when you turn the key to on?

Last edited by pmohr; May 28, 2009 at 06:58 PM.
Old May 28, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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I had the same problem, turned out my tranny was lose and the crank sensor on the tranny wasn't reading right or something. It took 4 months and 7 mechanics to figure it out
Old May 28, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Why would you take out the fuel pump? That would be the opposite of what you want to do, since without a pump you no longer get flow...

Make sure you're getting a good amount of fuel up front (assuming you don't have or don't want to get a fuel pressure gauge), pull a coil and make sure you're getting spark from it.

Personally I'd pull up one of the rails and check for flow, or at least get a noid light.

Is your ECU getting power? CEL come on when you turn the key to on?
i didnt take out my fuel pump. how do i check if im getting a good amount of fuel. my car is running rich .. might be too rich..

should i get a adjustable fuel pressure regulator?..im gonna check the plugs and coils tomorrow..

yes my CEL tunrs on when the car is ON
Old May 28, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hasuna91
I had the same problem, turned out my tranny was lose and the crank sensor on the tranny wasn't reading right or something. It took 4 months and 7 mechanics to figure it out
i changed both my crank sensors yesterday.. i made sure they were on tight and not loose.. but thanks for your input buddy
Old May 28, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopee
i didnt take out my fuel pump. how do i check if im getting a good amount of fuel. my car is running rich .. might be too rich..

should i get a adjustable fuel pressure regulator?..im gonna check the plugs and coils tomorrow..

yes my CEL tunrs on when the car is ON
You could get an AFPR, if you wanted to.

Pull the hose off of the filter, see if you've got good flow. Can you hear the fuel pump prime?

Without knowing if you get fuel or spark, it'll just be random guesses.
Old May 28, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You could get an AFPR, if you wanted to.

Pull the hose off of the filter, see if you've got good flow. Can you hear the fuel pump prime?

Without knowing if you get fuel or spark, it'll just be random guesses.
yeah i know where your comming from..i hear something when i turn the key to on but not start.. but dont know if its the fuel pump or not. not 100% sure
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ptatohed
The starter grounds through the transmission bell housing. Sometimes corrosion gets between the contact surface of the two halves of the transmission. Run a jumper strap (any gauge wire will do) from one of the starter bolts to a bolt on the other side of the trans. Just for good measure, you can continue running it to the negative battery terminal.
You mean run a ground wire from the one of the two bolts that holds the starter to the tranny to the neg part of the battery?
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wirelessdude04
You mean run a ground wire from the one of the two bolts that holds the starter to the tranny to the neg part of the battery?
Yes.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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thank you.... Will see if this improves anything
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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It took me 8 months to figure this out. Other guys here used the ground wires and were able to get their cars running. After much waiting and trial and error, I took a part the transmission for the second time. My problem sounded like yours but began after I changed my clutch. After taking the trans out for the second time, I placed the wire wheel on a small drill. I went around the motor side several times, making sure the motor was cleaned free of rust, debris, all abnormalities removed. I did the same on the trans side. I put them back together and I kid you not, the car fired up like it was brand spanking new. Keep in mind, I have a new fuel pump, 2 new crank sensors, new cam sensor and new starter. Now the car starts like a champ.
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