A/C - no cold air unless it is cool/cold outside
A/C - no cold air unless it is cool/cold outside
If it is hot outside then the coolest the vent temp gets is around 75 degrees F.
Pressure on high/low is good, no leaks, replaced bad cooling fan, compressor clutch kicks in.
I looked at the FSM and it says to test out the air mix door motor/controller. Do these things really go bad and if so could that be why there isn't any cold air?
Anyone know where I can get one if it is that? Or what else it could be at this point?
Pressure on high/low is good, no leaks, replaced bad cooling fan, compressor clutch kicks in.
I looked at the FSM and it says to test out the air mix door motor/controller. Do these things really go bad and if so could that be why there isn't any cold air?
Anyone know where I can get one if it is that? Or what else it could be at this point?
If the air mix door does not operate properly or if the seals of the door are perished then you may have the problem you describe. You can check this out by temporally plugging the water lines to the heater box and going for a drive.
Last edited by cedric; Jun 16, 2009 at 05:30 AM.
OK, I'm guessing since I don't know what water lines you are referring to I should take it in somewhere?
Loosen the hose clip and pull the rubber hose out. Plug the line with something suitable (make sure that the plug is nice and tight). Do this with both lines.
Now go for a drive and check out your AC. If it is cooling properly Then you it is definitely a problem near the heater box.
This is located behind the dash board and the the dash board has to be removed to access it. However some parts of it can be accessed from the sides of the dash board (ie heater box door motor actuator etc).
If you live in an area that is not seasonal and you do not need the heating function you can make do with keeping the heater lines plugged. However this is not recomended.
Remember to unplug the heater lines after the repair.
Cedric,
OK, thanks! Do you have time to explain how that all ties in? I'm not sure why the heater box would have anything to do with cooling? I'm even more confused now that you've explained the test to me. I guess my question is how could the heater box, etc. affect the cooling of the air in a negative way?
OK, thanks! Do you have time to explain how that all ties in? I'm not sure why the heater box would have anything to do with cooling? I'm even more confused now that you've explained the test to me. I guess my question is how could the heater box, etc. affect the cooling of the air in a negative way?
The reason why the heater box could be the problem is because if its not working properly, the system might be blowing cold air from the AC along with some heat therefore making the air coming out of the vent cool, but not cold.
you have a 95 with 300,000 miles. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the refrigerant seeped out over all those years. I'd go to your nearest autozone, pick up some R134A and try to top-off your cooling system. Put it on max cool, burp the fill line to ensure it's just R134A you're putting in your system and measure the temp coming out of your vents.. If it's dropping than problem solved, if not, you've got some bigger issues else where.
Cedric,
OK, thanks! Do you have time to explain how that all ties in? I'm not sure why the heater box would have anything to do with cooling? I'm even more confused now that you've explained the test to me. I guess my question is how could the heater box, etc. affect the cooling of the air in a negative way?
OK, thanks! Do you have time to explain how that all ties in? I'm not sure why the heater box would have anything to do with cooling? I'm even more confused now that you've explained the test to me. I guess my question is how could the heater box, etc. affect the cooling of the air in a negative way?
The heater box is heated by the hot water from the engine.
Hope this helps
Last edited by cedric; Jun 26, 2009 at 05:33 AM.
I had the exact same problem with my 97 I30. The system held coolant no problem, clutch turned on and off like it was supposed to, cooling fan on the condenser worked as it should, but no air colder than 75 measured with an infrared thermometer. I ended up replacing the compressor, accumulator, and seals, with brand new parts. Recharged the system and now it works perfectly. It turns out that the compressor was not compressing the air anymore. This was just caused by being used so much over the 180,000 miles in the southern heat. I know this isn't a cheap fix, but I had tried everything else before hand.
I'm pretty sure that the system dryer and accumulator are the same thing. It is highly recommended that if you change the compressor that you also replace the accumulator/dryer and vice versa.
(after you bypass the heater core trick)
when it's hot out...go outside and hit the AC On full blast.
then open the hood and hose down your AC condenser...that's the part that's in front of your radiator. thin alum radiator looking thing. keep cold water running on it. try not to get the engine really wet.
check the vent temps and see if it's any cooler.
you might have a blockage in the condensor.
have you every used AC sealer (in a can) in the system?
when it's hot out...go outside and hit the AC On full blast.
then open the hood and hose down your AC condenser...that's the part that's in front of your radiator. thin alum radiator looking thing. keep cold water running on it. try not to get the engine really wet.
check the vent temps and see if it's any cooler.
you might have a blockage in the condensor.
have you every used AC sealer (in a can) in the system?
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