Here the pic of it. it's about 10mm wide. I'm assuming it would be easier just to get some brembo blanks from IRP?

 

Looks like it, especially considering the corrosion. I installed some Brembo blanks and MetalMaster pads (at a nice price) from IRP almost 2 years ago. Had them cadmium plated locally, and I'm amazed at how they've held up. Almost no corrosion, and the rotor faces show very little sign of wear after what must be 30,000kms. Money well spent in my opinion.

 

Did the metal masters come with shims? I plan on putting in an order for the blanks tomorrow. Not sure what pads I want tho. I got these cheap autozone ones that are dusting like crazy right now.

Only thing is I really don't want to give the dealership like 30 bucks for 2 shims, as I have the rest of the hardware kit.

 

I ordered the rotors and pads over lunch... Brembo Blanks and Metal masters.

 

What kind of pads are you using?

 

I had OEM nissans, now theres new rotors (brembo blanks) and metalmasters.

 

thats not a rotor problem.. i would check to see whats going on with the caliper and or brake.. also check to see if the pins are lubed and not rusted.

 

i agree that this is not a rotor problem. although the problem ruined your rotors.
these are the rears right?
had the same symptom on my rears.
frozen calipers.
this leads to uneven contact of pads/rotors and rust where there is no contact.
if the rear rotors relatively new and have enough thickness left, turn them at autozone, replace the pads and rebuild the rotors
i fixed mine by replacing the calipers (rebuilt ones), new pads and rotors...
stops on a dime now...

 

only one of the rotors looked like that. Yes it was the rears. The pins were fine. How would I know if the calipers were frozen.

And finally where were you guys 3 weeks ago when I was doing this LOL...

 

the self adjusting ebrake mechanisms of the rear brake calipers make it prone to seizing. the only way to prevent this is to use the brake on a regular basis and "exercise" them.

since the rotors / pads must be exchanged in pairs, you should get new rotors and pads for both rears

since you mentioned that the pins are ok...
I would buy a rebuilt caliper from autozone or if you're adventurous enough...
you can "unfreeze" the caliper by using a machine vice and banging on the lever where the ebrake cable is supposed to activate. after unfreezing, rebuild the caliper with a caliper rebuild kit.

there are many write ups regarding this...

 

I have new pads and rotors on the car. You can't "push" the piston back in as the rears have to be screwed back into the caliper... Which I did, it wan't really easy but it worked. It may be the e-brake thing, but I use my e-brake on a daily basis.

 

yes, you need to screw the caliper with long nose pliers or a tool to make room for the new pads.... i'm assuming that you already went through this when installing the new pads.

just check regularly to see if the calipers are working properly and you should be good...

 

you can just get OEM brakes with new HPS hawk pads, and bleed the breaks.
i guarantee that this will work the best.

 

Thats the plan. I have to get the car up and make sure the e-brake is working properly, as the release button on the handle seems a little depressed from what I remember it being...

 

awwww shooot,

i have the EXACT same problem,
both rears are rusted, pulling e-brake makes no resistance...

i just ordered new ebay cheapo drilled rotors & ceramic pads for 210$,
how much is the caliper fix gonna cost me at a garage?

i was also thinking of bleeding the brakes at the same time, super spongey feel i've got no stopping power at all, i pump to brake at red lights

any more info is really appreciated!

 

better replace your rotors..

 

We can't tell you how much it's going to cost, you need to research that for yourself.

It depends on if they get new or reman calipers, or if they rebuild them themselves. It depends on where they get the calipers or rebuild kits from. It depends on how many hours they charge for the process, as well as their hourly rate. It depends on how much they charge in shop supplies, and how much tax is.

 

yeah i feel what you sayin,

just tried to get an overall average estimate so i wouldn't get screwed over

 

i had that prob on my Max too, replaced the calipers and rotors and voila... my calipers ceased up and i didnt even kno they werent working till my front pads were goin ever so often

 

SIMPLE QUICK E-BRAKE FIX
I had e-brake probs with my Max and I took a torch to the seized up adjustments and took WD-40 to loosen up the crap inside of the adjuster (be sure to let the adjuster cool before WD-40, you may get flames...I kno did it...lol.). Keep activating the e-brake until the sides are free to move with the adjustment spring returns back to normal position. I suggest having another person to help you with this fix, it makes it much easier. My e-brake works now. Be sure to do both sides. Just PM my if you need more details.

 

Nice man how much did you pay for your calipers? oem?

but were your rear rotors looking like the ones on the first pic?

 

love the brembos...good luck wit everything

 

Yea those rotors are gone. Fix em' up!