So I need to change all 4 motor mounts on my fairly rusted 96, auto w/ 191K. This will be the first time I am changing these. The mounts are sagging and I feel jerks when I shift from P to R. I at least need to change the rear and front mounts.

I don't have air-tools and I am willing to do this myself. BUT I would hate to have the bolts brake in half or something crazy like that. (I took my 2 front tires off last time for brake pad change and 6 studs broke just tryna get my tire off...LMAO). Hate to see this happen again, this time on a mount!! Its the first time I'm changing mounts... so:

1) Has anyone broken a motor mount bolt? I searched past topics on this and no one mentioned anything. Can't be that easy I think. I hear of other cars mount bolts braking all the time during a change, and haven't heard of a case for our cars yet. Our cars cant be that indestructable, so any feedback is appreciated.

2) What are some good tips to loosen rusted bolts besides marinading them in PB-Blaster? I'm planning on soaking them and gently tapping them everyday for a week straight. How does a torch help in my case if I decide to use and how do i apply the heat? Do I heat and then try to take off, or do I heat and let it cool before I take them off?

3) Impact or breaker bar for getting rusted nuts free without breaking? I would think an impact wrench is too powerful and it would just brake the rusted bolt. Maybe im wrong????

As you guys can see, rust is one hell of a concern for me.

 

those are some big *** bolts... soak the side that the thread goes in to... you will be fine...


remember to be careful and support the engine when you do this...

 

Putting and lining up all the mounts is the hardest part. May take u a while. You can def do the timing cover, the Trans mount with hand. The rear and front mounts will be a lot harder do too the long extensions but it can be done. It just wont be easy.

 

When you say the rear and front will be harder due to the long extension, you mean due to the long extension of the breaker bar and extension sockets interfering with the floor since those mounts are lower to the ground? Sorry, don't know if that made sense but I just wanted to clarify.

 

Well for the rear mount, I have to use some pretty long extensions to take it off…I always just get all my extensions and use an impact gun from the driver side wheel well… (yes that is a VERY long extension haha)…

I might be wrong, but im sure if you were patient enough and had very strong fingers you could figure out another way…but this is the easiest way I could figure doing it…I do it every time I have to remove the x member…

PB blaster is a plus! So your heading in the right directions…

As for lining up the bolt holes for the motor mounts its hard to do on all the mounts sometimes…it kinda just depends…my recommendation is to buy a bottle jack to help with “tilting” the motor to help you line things up a big quicker…make sure you use a big block of wood or something as to not break the upper oil pan or dent ur lower pan…just have common sense when your supporting the motor to angle it in the position you need it in…but most likely it shouldn’t be TOO hard…

Overall I would highly recommend having an impact gun to at least remove the xmember and the front and rear mounts…everything else u can do by hand….but it makes everything a WHOLLLEEE lot easier with the right tools..