i connected everything. does it need to reset?

 

Ironically, the EGR on my 96 with almost 250k miles on it was not clogged.

 

First time pulling the UIM on my 2000 i30 for a valve cover gasket change. Can someone tell me what these brackets are for, and why we wouldn't need to replace them upon replacing the manifold? (We are talking about the ones just in front of the firewall, the passenger side has 4, 12 mm bolts, and the driver side has 2?)

Also, what would be the hose routing without these egr hoses connected as the above poster has mentioned? what would be the consequences of not reattaching them?

Also, i haven't gotten those bolts off yet, and hope to soon, after all the bolts are removed, (or assumed to be) from the upper air intake, how stuck is it going to be? Basically, going in there is this something i need to take a gentle blows of a mallet with to make it budge? or if i need to resort to that, it only means there may be some bolts i have missed.

Also, this is tough for me, as all the writeups seem to be for gen 4, or 5.5. and I have 5. if anyone is sitting on a walkthrough for a 5th gen for valve gasket removal and manifold removal, or how it differs from this great writeup, i would greatly appreciate it!

thanks

 

The two support brackets are, IMO, completely unnecessary.

Once you've removed all the bolts, the intake will just lift off. Beat it, and you'll likely break it (unlike the cast aluminum intakes, which will take some abuse).

Look through the 00VI threads, they pretty much cover removal/installation (especially Ceaser's thread).

 

ROFL!!!!!!!! Lexus 2jz-ge engines require the removal of the upper intake manifold to change the spark plugs. LOLOL. Granted it is easier.

 

Great write-up. Wish I found this thread before I tackled mine. Just finished and I forgot to reconnect the rear u-shaped coolant line. Coolant everywhere.

Anyone know how to install it without taking off the UIM? Otherwise, I'm tearing her off again tomorrow morning. Argh...

 

my 98 max just died on me,my mechanic told me its the battery and the starter and quoted me 600 for both with labor i think that's to expensive i refuse to get ripped off so im going to try to replace the starter myself.with no mechanical experience do you guys think it to hard for my first project?i have to admit this thread made everything look so easy i feel like i can do it.

 

http://www.youtube.com/boredmder#p/u/12/nw-ECOC7GUs

 

Pmohr thanx, that's a great video .it really breaks it down and makes it look simple.

 

Along the same lines ... as I will use this guide to install MEVI

I have been given a MEVI but the rear coolant pipe has broken off..

How do you reroute/baypass it? And is it bad to do so

 

Every car has stupid designs of some orientation or component in it. Typically, even if the engineer(s) figure out there is a problem, management has some bs deadline they've lied about and will start forcing designs forward even if they are not ideal.
Also, I think the basic VQ was developed to not go into a fwd sedan, so some things that are pretty stupid might have been almost unavoidable without huge re-designs.
AND, at the time, Nissan financially was going down the toilet, so the pressure might have been greater right around the 4th gen time before Renault bought them

 

I just wanted to say thank you... I followed your pictures and advise and took off the intake manifold without a hitch.

thank you

 

What are the chances or liklihood of damaging the screw heads/screw holes when removing the valve cover and the manifold? That's one of my major concerns since I have limited tools and limited mechanical experience.

This is definitely something I'd like to try myself though.

 

With the right size 6pt socket, you won't round the valve cover bolt heads because they're not on that tight. However, when you put the bolts back on, be careful to clean out any dirt, grease, oil, debris, or whatever, that falls into the bolt holes while you're removing the cover. Also, it's tedious to get the valve cover to seat just right on top of the spark plug tubes, and you have to make sure the valve cover bolt holes are lined up with the holes in the cylinder head. Otherwise you might start threading the bolt at an angle. It's easy to damage the threads in the cylinder head. Start threading a bolt in very slowly in, and if you encounter sudden resistance, unscrew and check the bore for dirt. Don't spray anything into the bore that won't quickly evaporate - you don't want any liquid in the bottom of the bore.

Last time I pulled the rear valve cover, I had to run a rethreading tap in 6 of the 10 bolt holes. I don't know why. I still wound up with one that wouldn't clean up, so I just torqued it down even though I had to use much more torque than is specified. If I ever have to remove it again, I'll have to tap that hole with a bottoming tap instead of a rethreading tool.

 

I don't have any tricks, but I do have a few tools that make it a whole lot easier.

Long reach hose grip pliers from Harbor Freight


Craftsman cable operated hose clamp pliers from Sears


The hose grip pliers I originally bought when I was having trouble with the heater core lines on my mom's Grand Am. They have been invaluable ever since.

The Craftsman pliers I bought while removing the UIM. They run $43 with tax, but they are well worth it. Once I get the GXE running I'm going to tear into the SE and replace both valve cover gaskets, so I'll get plenty of use out of them.

Actually, I do have one trick. I left both lines attached to the UIM and disconnected the other end of each. The one towards the rear engine side of the UIM is fairly easy to reach. For the other, I just lifted the UIM slightly and rested it on top of the EGR guide tube. This gave me enough room to get both sets of pliers onto the hose and remove it no time.

 

Great write-up! Thank you. I wish I read this before I took everything apart - would have made things easier and faster.

Does anyone know if the lower intake manifold to head gaskets need sealant?

I took the lower intake manifold out, cleaned the gunk. The old gasket did not have traces of sealant, but that doesn't mean it shouldn't have. Haynes manual says "remove old gasket and traces of sealant" but under installation section just says "install new gasket" and doesn't mention anything about sealant.

I just want to make sure - those really skinny gaskets don't look like they need sealant, but you never know.

Thanks!

 

I just did this job yesterday for the first time. I took your advice on those hose pliars. Man, i would not have wanted to do the job without them. Heres my contribution:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32042

The 12mm wrench in that set saved me more headache than i can imagine. It was a godsend for the rear bracket bolts, and the lower egr tube bolt. I would definetly recommend picking that set up especially for that price.

I cant believe you guys are cutting that bolt off with a hacksaw. Man it took 60 sec with a rotary tool. Definetly a wise investment.

On a side note. I got everything back together just fine(or it appears so far) except I broke the stupid PCV valve insulator. Of all the things. So now I've got a vacuum leak that causes my rpms to waver. Gotta wait a couple of days for the dealer to get it in stock. I guess I'm just thankful that it wasnt something expensive.

 

Nissan dealer service woman said her boss said those gaskets do not need sealant. Thanks guys/girls!

 

I am as well, waiting for dealer parts, due to those waving rpms. Do not mix up the egr valve gasket with the egr guide tube gasket! Big setback!

 

Isn't the valve gasket a large triangle whereas the tube gasket is a small oval?

 

Apparently, they're completely different. The valve gasket is smaller and oval shaped, whereas the tube gasket is more triangular/diamond shaped, and slightly larger than the valve one. I was ignorant and installed a valve one on the tube without removing the manifold... and that's what started all of my problems. Autozone has 3 different types; valve, tube and spaced EGR gaskets. And looking at this one site I stumbled upon, Courtesy Parts, I found that item 14719 and 14120G are completely different!

 

yes excellent write up...I had #5 fuel injector go last week @ 211k miles..original injectors , since I had the upper intake off, I replaced the original valve cover gaskets..unclogged the EGR tube and all the sludge just inside the upper intake where the EGR tube connects, cleaned the gunked throttle body, cleaned the IAC and all the plungers inside it, the sparks plugs did not look too bad after 80k on them but replaced all since I had the car apart ,I used Bosch Platinum Plus 4001 plugs @ $2.95 each from AutoZone , new fuel filter & then replaced all three injectors for cylinders 1,3 & the the resistance tested open #5 injector with new GP Sorensen injectors bought from Auto Zone @ $77.00 a piece...I figure I will save the two used and operating injectors as spares..I left the originals injectors 2,4 & 6 as they are simple to replace should they go bad ..just removed them and put in a ultrasonic cleaner and reinstalled them....put everything all back, reused the upper intake manifold gasket & the original IAC valve gasket ..replaced the paper throttle body gasket as it is easier to separate the throttle body from the UIM and not deal with tearing existing vacuum lines....any way THE CAR FLIES AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

...I have had this max since Jan. 2003 and have put 100 k miles myself on it. once again a fine write up!

 

So just to clarify it is safe to leave those 2 intake manifold bracket bolts off ?
Because if it is im leaving them off as it is a PITA to replace them!

One more thing when taking off the manifold from the egr guide tube like in the OP post above, there wasnt a gasket of any kind there.
When i get it back together will my car run without this supposed gasket ?



Is there a gasket for this tube ? If so am I in trouble ?

 

It is likely the gasket dropped into the engine bay after you took out the 2 bolts.

 

Ok so I took those 2 "extra" bolts off the back of the UIM and used them for my IACV and no problems so far ! Im also not running a gasket on the egr guide tube pictured above and so far no problems..

Thanks for the tips guys

When I tackle this on my Black Maxima im going to go a little further and take off the lower manifold too so I can change the Knock Sensor without cutting up my hand.

 

i gotta do this job soon. and dang that egr tube was clogged, what problems could that cause for the motor?

 

good job man! I just did Cyl#1 injector yesterday and it was a pain to get that manifold off. Everything needed cleaning so I am going to have to take it all apart again soon. Nice job on the pics.

 

Quote:i gotta do this job soon. and dang that egr tube was clogged, what problems could that cause for the motor?

Mine was plugged up and giving a CEL code, so needed to clean that up to clear it. Also, by cleaning things up (including the IAC), my cold start RPM's were back up to normal (> 1000) and now it idles better too.

 

I'm dreading this but I know I have to clean that egr and change gasket... Thank You for making it look easier than I thought It would be...

 

That would be a stupid choice to make, Maxima's may be a pain in the *** to work on, but it's so worth having a Maxima over a POS Camry.

 

Great post and very detailed.

 

Thanks for the pics and post! I am getting a EGR and a knock sensor code. The dude at advance auto that checked the codes for me gave me quote for BWD/Intermotor EGR Valve... 153.99. Knock sensor BWD/Intermotor... 138.99. After reading this post im under the impression the EGR valve is clogged and just needs a good cleaning... will cleaning it clear the code and give me some power back? I plan on replacing all the gaskets and knock sensor at the same time... Should I get the cheaper knock sensor and gaskets at advance or go straight to the dealer? Thanks in advance for your advice!

99 Max
120,000 miles

 

What EGR code, exactly? There are many, and they all relate to different problems.

 

Damn he just said "EGR Valve code you need to replace it". I will go back tomorrow and get exact codes. Thanks!

 

PO400 - EGR flow malfunction
PO325 - Circuit malfunction / Bank 1 or Sensor 1

PO325 code came up twice on the same scan.

Thanks pmohr!

 

I wouldn't worry about the knock sensor code until the EGR is dealt with.

More than likely you just need to clean out the EGR passages. This thread is for a pre-'99 and as such doesn't have an electronic EGR valve, but the process is somewhat similar. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ing-p0400.html

 

I appreciate the advice and direction to the correct post to read, I was only able to get one egr tube gasket from the parts store so hopefully one is salvageable. Time to bust some knuckles thanks again boss!

 

Thanks ATTappman.

You save me a lot me $$$. I needed to change the hose at the back of the UIM, right by the EGR guide tube. It was leaking coolant due to a crack hose. But after putting things back together... I got a P1105 error code on the OBDII scan because of "Service engine Soon" light that came on after this task. The car is running fine though with no hesitations or idling concerns.

Any idea on what is causing this for me to check will be much appreciated. Please list all possibilities so I can check each one. Thanks.

BTW, I have a 98 Infiniti I30 for this problem. I also have a 97 Maxima. The Maxima is performing way better than the i30, really don't know why.

 

I looked at your other reply/posting:

P1105 could indicate the MAP/BARO solenoid valve, instead of the MAP sensor. The solenoid valve has a vacuum hose that connects to the bottom of the throttle body. It's very easy to miss this and leave that hose disconnected, if you've had the throttle body/UIM off. If that hose is disconnected, it will throw a P1105.

I checked all hose(s) possibilities being disconnected. There was one that was disconnected like you mentioned above. The funny part is, I do not remember pulling or disconnecting this one. And when I look at it (without touching) it looks connected, but when I pulled it... sure enough it was not even connected. I must have pulled it during the UIM fixes.

So far the code is gone... Whew! thanks again. This forum is AWESOME!

 

I have cracks in my UIM on my 99 maxima w/ 254k miles and will be replacing it soon. This post will REALLY HELP! thanks bro!

question:
Would it be a good idea to clean the MAS sensor w/ DSL?
thanks