Knock sensor question
Knock sensor question
I had an EGR code and a knock sensor code and just removed and cleaned the EGR and so far, no code. I did a search reading up on the KC and it was noted about putting a 460ohm resister in the wiring harness. I know there are only two terminals on the KS, but does it go between them or to one of them and ground. If to one of them and ground, which one, if it matters. The mileage on this car has gone from 30+ to about 25mpg on the highway. I have not done a mileage check since the EGR cleaning, but it seems to run better.
Your help is appreciated.
Randy
Your help is appreciated.
Randy
After cleaning the EGR, your mileage should go back up. If your wanting to know which wire to put the Resister on for the KSyou need to do some reading on which KS you have. There was an updated version of it. I do not know them off the top of my head though so i appologize. And if im not mistaken youd put the resister to the Positive lead. The engine Block is the Ground.
:EDIT: oh and if your only putting the resister there becasue of the code, so that you can run 91 Octane or higher. Dont bother The KS was probably just ghost coding.
:EDIT: oh and if your only putting the resister there becasue of the code, so that you can run 91 Octane or higher. Dont bother The KS was probably just ghost coding.
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to the OP just buy a new one to be sure you dont want to take a shortcut now that will lead you to a world of hurt later.
What a rip
I pulled the KC off my spare engine, but have not put it on the the engine in the car yet. Only took a couple of minutes, but there is no way I can get my hands down in the hole like in the video. Ebay has KC's for $25 and up.
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
I pulled the KC off my spare engine, but have not put it on the the engine in the car yet. Only took a couple of minutes, but there is no way I can get my hands down in the hole like in the video. Ebay has KC's for $25 and up.
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
I pulled the KC off my spare engine, but have not put it on the the engine in the car yet. Only took a couple of minutes, but there is no way I can get my hands down in the hole like in the video. Ebay has KC's for $25 and up.
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
...omg...tell him you can do it in under a half hour (prepare for it) and if you can do so, to give you a job as head service tech. Take no less than $40 an hour
So i finally changed my knock sensor with a friend while doing the front brakes:
took me around an hour and a half. dammit i read the tutorial a long time ago and i forgot about it when i did it this weekend, and it was raining so we went under a highway bridge...
So we drove there, did the front brakes, around 2hrs, afterwards we went for the ks.
the intake manifold was still freakin hot, so we fabricated a bunch of homemade bootleg combination of extensions and stuff, unscrewed most of it but it was still there... after about an hour+ of frustration, i realized that my hand slid in there no problem lolllll, shoulda seen the look of my friend's face.
Unscrewed manually, took the ks out: had some minor corrosion (about 1/5 of contact surface), took a screwdriver and scraped off the corrosion on the jack (forgot sandpaper at home), put the new sensor in under 5 mins...
started the car, drove a bit: no difference, still good ol sluggish acceleration...
went back home late at night, researched on the org for a couple hrs: realized i had to clear the codes and drive for about 50miles for the ecu to relearn everything.
Conclusion: after resetting the code, started the car: no cel, 5 secs later, boom cel comes on, check ecu, ks gone but still have my 0401 (intake air temp sensor).
so far so good. Drove to work today about 20 miles back and forth seeing some improvement so far, definitely not as sluggish as it was, hopefully it gets even better.
I did not clean the contacts for the ground yet, i want to see if its the actual ks that was damaged, if the code comes back, it has to be the ground on the intake manifold (dark and greasy around that area) or the harness (freaked out for a second when i only saw 1 wire in the harness!).
the old sensor seemed ok in apparence, will upload pic if i have time, might still be good...
Some tips: Like someone mentioned to me a couple months ago, let the max cool off for a good couple hrs or its gonna be hot as hell in there.
Also, when trying to get in there, stand on the driver side fender, and use your left hand to get in the valley, had less trouble than when i used my right hand. Also there is a small connector that might be in the way, disconnect it for extra room... good luck!
took me around an hour and a half. dammit i read the tutorial a long time ago and i forgot about it when i did it this weekend, and it was raining so we went under a highway bridge...
So we drove there, did the front brakes, around 2hrs, afterwards we went for the ks.
the intake manifold was still freakin hot, so we fabricated a bunch of homemade bootleg combination of extensions and stuff, unscrewed most of it but it was still there... after about an hour+ of frustration, i realized that my hand slid in there no problem lolllll, shoulda seen the look of my friend's face.
Unscrewed manually, took the ks out: had some minor corrosion (about 1/5 of contact surface), took a screwdriver and scraped off the corrosion on the jack (forgot sandpaper at home), put the new sensor in under 5 mins...
started the car, drove a bit: no difference, still good ol sluggish acceleration...
went back home late at night, researched on the org for a couple hrs: realized i had to clear the codes and drive for about 50miles for the ecu to relearn everything.
Conclusion: after resetting the code, started the car: no cel, 5 secs later, boom cel comes on, check ecu, ks gone but still have my 0401 (intake air temp sensor).
so far so good. Drove to work today about 20 miles back and forth seeing some improvement so far, definitely not as sluggish as it was, hopefully it gets even better.
I did not clean the contacts for the ground yet, i want to see if its the actual ks that was damaged, if the code comes back, it has to be the ground on the intake manifold (dark and greasy around that area) or the harness (freaked out for a second when i only saw 1 wire in the harness!).
the old sensor seemed ok in apparence, will upload pic if i have time, might still be good...
Some tips: Like someone mentioned to me a couple months ago, let the max cool off for a good couple hrs or its gonna be hot as hell in there.
Also, when trying to get in there, stand on the driver side fender, and use your left hand to get in the valley, had less trouble than when i used my right hand. Also there is a small connector that might be in the way, disconnect it for extra room... good luck!
I did change mine out yesterday with a 3/8th ratchet, several extensions, a swivel and a short 6 point 12mm socket. To put the other one on, used a long set of needle nose pliers to place it on the post with out the harness attached. Put a piece of tape on the inside of the socket to hold the screw and placed it on the sensor using the extension. I tightened the screw up and then put the spring clip on the connector in place and used the long pliers to push it back on the sensor. The only fuss was getting enough light up in the hole to see what I was doing while having the pliers and ratchet in place.
I did not look to see if I could have moved the plate that holds all the vacuum hoses and tubes in place, but without doing that, there is no way I could have gotten my hand in there, even undoing the connector that was in the way.
I want to thank everyone for their responses and hope this helps others to check and replace their Knock Sensor.
Randy
Just out of curosity, I called the local Nissan dealer and asked what it would cost to get a Knock Sensor replaced. How about $694 for parts, labor and taxes. The guy says "This job takes about all day". I wonder how these people sleep at night.
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
Thanks for all your help and comments.
RandyA
Man, you must have really long arms and small hands. If I stood on the driver's side fender, I could not even reach the engine.
I did change mine out yesterday with a 3/8th ratchet, several extensions, a swivel and a short 6 point 12mm socket. To put the other one on, used a long set of needle nose pliers to place it on the post with out the harness attached. Put a piece of tape on the inside of the socket to hold the screw and placed it on the sensor using the extension. I tightened the screw up and then put the spring clip on the connector in place and used the long pliers to push it back on the sensor. The only fuss was getting enough light up in the hole to see what I was doing while having the pliers and ratchet in place.
I did not look to see if I could have moved the plate that holds all the vacuum hoses and tubes in place, but without doing that, there is no way I could have gotten my hand in there, even undoing the connector that was in the way.
I want to thank everyone for their responses and hope this helps others to check and replace their Knock Sensor.
Randy
I did change mine out yesterday with a 3/8th ratchet, several extensions, a swivel and a short 6 point 12mm socket. To put the other one on, used a long set of needle nose pliers to place it on the post with out the harness attached. Put a piece of tape on the inside of the socket to hold the screw and placed it on the sensor using the extension. I tightened the screw up and then put the spring clip on the connector in place and used the long pliers to push it back on the sensor. The only fuss was getting enough light up in the hole to see what I was doing while having the pliers and ratchet in place.
I did not look to see if I could have moved the plate that holds all the vacuum hoses and tubes in place, but without doing that, there is no way I could have gotten my hand in there, even undoing the connector that was in the way.
I want to thank everyone for their responses and hope this helps others to check and replace their Knock Sensor.
Randy
did u reset the ecu yet? all good?
its been 4 days now since i changed mine, check the ecu today, didn't come back so far, yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeea!!!
it feels good when i think about the old owner who paid 600$+ for a ks job... well i do feel bad for him, but you know what i mean lol

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