holymoly

You guessed it. On the last spark plug, this has never happened to me, the ceramic top breaks and all the parts are lodged so I cannot access with rachet.

I've tried grinding the ceramics to pieces with a long screwdriver, but no luck.

Obviously the engine is running rough on 5 pistons.

What are my options?


P.S. I can't believe I did this and on the least accessible plug.

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

Maybe a strong shop vac could suck it out?

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

suck what, the spark plug out of its threads? The metal part is still screwed into the engine...

holymoly

I'm going to get a long tool with a pointy end and smash the embedded ceramic, and yes suck out the loose pieces.

ramanx806

try to take pics if u possibly can.

holymoly

you must be joking...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

so the hex flats are still attached to the base of the plug?

If so, just get some needle nose pliers and pull out as much loose debris as you can, then just grab a regular spark plug socket.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

thats nice now when you remove the plug all that crap is gonna fall in right away...


get some compressed air and blow it out...


then and only then remove the plug when everything around it is clean..

holymoly

Since this plug is at center of engine at the back, really tough to access, I am trying to break to pieces using a long round sanding file with a fine point, but it only appears to wedge more the ceramic. Can't break it. I even fashioned two straws head to head to suck out any pieces, but there aren't any.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

chew a crap load of bubble gum and stick it to something that fits in the plug hole. Do work.

Mkay, if there aren't any pieces then why are you worried? Just take out the rest of the plug.

holymoly

I can't access the plug with wrench because the ceramic is wedged with the hex plug. Maybe I can get an extra long needle nose pliers to at least loosen the plug using the inner circle of the plug.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

so again, why can't you use a really long screwdriver and dislodge the ceramic bits? If you don't have one go buy one. And seriously, there is nothing hard about accessing any of the rear plugs if you remove the evap bracket and all hat other crap that is in the way. Stop using that as an excuse. Take off the hood struts, prop the hood up with something vertically, grab a light, lay down on the engine and get o work...

holymoly

Hey Dave, what you think I've been doing?

Just because it is hard to access doesn't mean I'm right over the engine hacking away at the wedged ceramic. Just spent three hours at it. Nothing is loosening.

The only tool store doesn't have 11" nor 16" needle nose pliers that at least I could unscrew the remaining round spark plug head.

Hope my mechanic does.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Why are you trying to remove the plug when there's still all that crap in the plug tube? If you remove the plug, you're just potentially making more of a problem for yourself.

Remove all of the stuff in the plug hole, then worry about removing the plug itself. It's been posted several times, you just seem to be ignoring it.

And personally if I was driving around like that, I'd at least unplug the injector; no need to waste fuel or wash down the cylinder.

ATTappman

There's something I don't understand, about this thread and a previous one about how to restore the spark plug threads in the cylinder head. How do you remove a spark plug tube? Is it press fit into the head? I don't understand why you can't just take the valve cover off and pull the spark plug tube out of the head, making it easy to get to the plug. The tubes are separate parts, only about $3 each, so even if you destroyed it when pulling it out it's not that bad.

I've never paid attention to what holds the tubes in place when I've had the valve covers off. How do you get one of them out of the head?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Should just be press fit in there.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

unless you wanna undo the damage or partout your max.....

ATTappman

How tight is the fit? Could you pull it out with a pair of Channellocks, or would you need to drill some holes in it and use a slide hammer or a hoist or something like that?

Before resorting to orthopedic surgery techniques with long-nosed instruments it seems like it would be easier to pull the tube out of the cylinder head.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

They're in there pretty damn good. I've carried a few loaded VQ heads by the spark plug tubes without problems.

I think in all likelihood, you'd destroy the tube trying to pull it out and probably still not get anywhere with it.

ATTappman

Somebody posted recently about a mechanic putting a Helicoil in a spark plug bore. I don't see how you could do that without taking the tube off. There must be some way to do that.

holymoly

Took it to my mechanic who I am told broke down the ceramics, used grease to extract pieces, and air gun to get to plug, along with some choice swear words.
All told I am out $150.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you you keep track of oill consuption and watch for smoke. Do a compression test with you next tune up, ceramic could really score your cylinder/piston.

holymoly

with the 6th cylinder plug not functioning I naturally had the "Service Engine Soon" dummy light on.

With the worke done, it is still on.... hmm

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

clear the light.

holymoly

I followed the Haines manual on clearing the light using the on-board computer and it did clear for a few minutes, but its back.

I really think the light is a false alarm, oh the codes are 05-05 meaning all's clear.

Is it?

holymoly

Would disconnecting the battery do it?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Disconnecting the battery do what, clear the codes? Yes, by means of brute force.

Have your charging system tested.

holymoly

Remember the service engine light only turned on simultaneously when I was driving on 5 cylinders.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

The light is from the misfire/dead cylinder.... reset it

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F

^thats from pmohr's sig. how to reset ecu

holymoly

Cool Vid.

Read back and I did the right, wait and left thingy on the on-board box.

The light cleared but came back after a few minutes.

But I'll try that again.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

If it comes on again check the code, it might actually be something different

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay, and the code was...what? 0505?

As I said before (and was apparently ignored), have your charging system tested.

holymoly

Before I do that, don't see how charging system is related, should I try disconnecting the battery?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay, if you don't see it to be relevant, then forget I mentioned it.

You could give it a shot, what do you have to lose?

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

Pmohr is a maxima.... if he says check chargin system, check ur chargin system

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

For what it's worth - the FSM shows the tube being assembled with RTV to hold them in place.

Personally, I've installed a complete set of these tubes in new Cosworth heads. It ain't easy.... I had to 1) freeze the new OEM tubes (to shrink them) 2) wipe with PB Blaster 3) tap them in with a rubber mallet. No RTV - they are not coming out again.

If I had to remove them, I would use metal shears and cut them down to the head, then use pliers to twist and tear the metal around in a circle until I could pull out what's left of the tube. Repeat 5 more times.

ATTappman

Thanks.

holymoly

I've reset the OB computer a few times but service engine soon comes back.

Don't think anything is really wrong, but how to check charging system yourself?

The shop wants to charge $80 just to scan and presently out of work and not inclined to provide a donation.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

easiest way is to check the voltage across the battery terminals with a volt/multimeter while the car is running. should be around 14V.

If thats inconclusive, do a search on charging system

holymoly

excuse my ignorance, but charging system; is that a battery check?