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replacing cv axle, got questions

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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 02:48 PM
  #41  
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had it towed to a mechanic.

done with this. never do this kind of job again, not fun at all.

Originally Posted by JtzMax
For starters .... you'll ruin the hub if you move the car w/o the axle in.

Secondly, the rubber boot only covers the roller bearnig of the CV joint. You should not need force (or the force) to put an axle in.
Old Sep 24, 2009 | 12:18 AM
  #42  
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I used to love it when I was working at the shop and a customer brought me they're 1/2 done work. Made my job easy - most of the time - and I could charge them out the nose. G'luck in other words.
Old Sep 24, 2009 | 06:22 AM
  #43  
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i would recommend if u change the drivers side axle to put wheel bearing grease on the cur clip before install.
Old Sep 24, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TMAXDOUT
i would recommend if u change the drivers side axle to put wheel bearing grease on the cur clip before install.


Read the thread


Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #45  
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What he's saying is precisely correct, it can help in a lot of instances. You put some grease around the snap ring so that it is held "centered" on the splines rather than letting gravity pull it off center. With some snap rings it can help if they are a little more stretched than others. I've had axles that wouldn't go in because the snap ring was a little too stretched out and would interfere with installation, but putting grease on it centered it on the axle and made installing it a snap (no pun). Others that have tighter snap rings didn't require this.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #46  
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Neal ... sorry if you misunderstood my post. I was simply saying that the OP already took the car to a shop. Not saying it's not good advice.

I appolagize if I offended anyone.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:43 PM
  #47  
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It is okay to reuse that dust shield on the pass. side axle?

My new pass. axle didnt come with one.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
It is okay to reuse that dust shield on the pass. side axle?

My new pass. axle didnt come with one.
If it comes off without damage, then sure.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 07:14 PM
  #49  
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Not to rub it in your face OP but Passenger side axle... piece of cake.

Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.


Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #50  
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I did this too but it just wouldn't pop in.

Originally Posted by Nealoc187
What he's saying is precisely correct, it can help in a lot of instances. You put some grease around the snap ring so that it is held "centered" on the splines rather than letting gravity pull it off center. With some snap rings it can help if they are a little more stretched than others. I've had axles that wouldn't go in because the snap ring was a little too stretched out and would interfere with installation, but putting grease on it centered it on the axle and made installing it a snap (no pun). Others that have tighter snap rings didn't require this.
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #51  
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oh well, the job is done. By gones ..
Old Sep 26, 2009 | 11:51 AM
  #52  
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aglee!! pass side is very easy to pop in, while taking it off is hard, tiny space there.

been there, done that, even it ended up in a mechanic shop

Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
Not to rub it in your face OP but Passenger side axle... piece of cake.

Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.


Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
Old Sep 28, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #53  
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My experience with axle replacement:

Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer

Installation: Very big rubber mallet

Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.

This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.

To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.

YMMV.

JackMeUp
Old Sep 28, 2009 | 04:04 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by JackMeUp
My experience with axle replacement:

Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer

Installation: Very big rubber mallet

Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.

This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.

To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.

YMMV.

JackMeUp

Dude ... what are you jacked up on exactly? You don't use force, or 'the force' to remove or install axles. I've never heard of anyone using a chain before - that's a new one. I guess if you don't know what you're doing, this might work ... but I'm gonna take your word for it and do it like the professional that I am.

wow ...
Old Sep 29, 2009 | 02:35 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by JtzMax
Dude ... what are you jacked up on exactly? You don't use force, or 'the force' to remove or install axles. I've never heard of anyone using a chain before - that's a new one. I guess if you don't know what you're doing, this might work ... but I'm gonna take your word for it and do it like the professional that I am.

wow ...
I guess these Maxima axles are easy then. Every other car I've done it on the axles are stuck in the trans real good. Like I said, YMMV. I use chain to attach the slide hammer to the axle. If you use anything else it eats up all the "snap" from the slide hammer.

Try replacing axles on a 2nd gen MX-6 without using any force...

And the true WTF here is people recommending to use prybars and crowbars to remove axles. These apply force at an angle, when force needs to be applied in-line with the bore, straight in, straight out.

Ever bought a rebuilt axle that has all sorts of gouges and dents on the trans-end outter cup? That's what prybars and hammers get you...
Old Sep 29, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #56  
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I spoke too soon. I knicked the damn axle seal. I was sooo careful too, i had 2 people helping me guide it in, slowly. Didnt even get resistance from lining up the teeth.

Is the seal the one around the lip of the hole or is it deeper inside?

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