Electrical Shortage
09-25-2009, 01:52 PM
#1
Electrical Shortage
Ok My alternator Recently Went. so i replaced it[duh]
::story::
Car ran fine for a day then after heading home from work. I notice my gauges all dropped to 0. I figured the fuse to the gauges just blew [thought:no big deal], kept driving home. Then i noticed my radio started to flicker on and off, and my headlights and interior lights all went really dim. (figured the alternator wasnt charging battery but the battery and alternator or both fine)Engine started to sputter and then stalled out. Car would not start after. Had it towed home.
::Now::
Ive Replaced the blown meter fuse and check all other interior fuses.
Got a Jump Start to start it. Seems to run fine. I put it in reverse Meter fuse IMMEDIATELY blows. I drive around the block everything starts to dim again and i can feel the engine wanna stall out so i drive it back home.
I cant find any loose/hanging/crossed wires to cause a short or whatever. This all started after the alternator replacement. I checked over all the alternator connectons all are on and tightened.
Very ANNOING PROBLEM PLEASE HELP!
-sorry about the long post just wanted to get all the info out and right.
::story::
Car ran fine for a day then after heading home from work. I notice my gauges all dropped to 0. I figured the fuse to the gauges just blew [thought:no big deal], kept driving home. Then i noticed my radio started to flicker on and off, and my headlights and interior lights all went really dim. (figured the alternator wasnt charging battery but the battery and alternator or both fine)Engine started to sputter and then stalled out. Car would not start after. Had it towed home.
::Now::
Ive Replaced the blown meter fuse and check all other interior fuses.
Got a Jump Start to start it. Seems to run fine. I put it in reverse Meter fuse IMMEDIATELY blows. I drive around the block everything starts to dim again and i can feel the engine wanna stall out so i drive it back home.
I cant find any loose/hanging/crossed wires to cause a short or whatever. This all started after the alternator replacement. I checked over all the alternator connectons all are on and tightened.
Very ANNOING PROBLEM PLEASE HELP!
-sorry about the long post just wanted to get all the info out and right.
09-25-2009, 05:08 PM
#5
I have a very similar problem that I have had for quite some time. My gauges (tach, speedo, etc.) all drop to zero periodically with the speakers turning on and off alternately. My headlights go back and forth between bright and dim. So far I haven't had any problems with the vehicle continuing to run. I haven't replaced the alternator because the battery seems to stay charged. The red battery/brake dash lights come on periodically, but go away at random. I've been trying to figure this out for a while now too.
09-27-2009, 09:20 AM
#6
09-27-2009, 09:21 AM
#7
09-27-2009, 10:33 AM
#8
No, the hard plastic one, with two wires coming out of it.
The fuse should have a number associated with it. Check on the diagram on the fuse box cover that tells you what each fuse goes to. To check the system voltage get a multimeter (check Radio Shack or Sears if you don't have one), start the car, and check the voltage across to battery terminals.
Figure out which fuse it is, check the voltage, try removing the plug and placing the car in reverse, then post your results.
The fuse should have a number associated with it. Check on the diagram on the fuse box cover that tells you what each fuse goes to. To check the system voltage get a multimeter (check Radio Shack or Sears if you don't have one), start the car, and check the voltage across to battery terminals.
Figure out which fuse it is, check the voltage, try removing the plug and placing the car in reverse, then post your results.
09-29-2009, 02:12 PM
#9
ok thanks for the help guys
but this is what ive done.
i got a new nuetral safety switch.installed it. and got a jump to start.
put the car in reverse. fuse stayed.
turned off the car to try turning it on again w/o the jump. to see if it starts it did, soo in thinking problem solved, i put it into reverse for a around the block test run. as soon as i put into reverse again dashboard died, fuse popped, and so went back to park, engine started stuttering. i shut it off.
then i checked my reverse light wiring thru-out the trunk for a wire that might be touching or ground or bad bulbs or anything obvious.Nothing wrong.
then i tried disconnect the reverse wire from the nuetral safety switch.
started car w/ jump and reverse wire unconnected. put into reverse fuse stays so i took it around the block everything runs fine.
then with it connected again the problem persists.
so now im thinkin theres a short or wire prob not from the switch to the battery [which i originally thought] but a prob from the switch to the reverse lights.
but this is what ive done.
i got a new nuetral safety switch.installed it. and got a jump to start.
put the car in reverse. fuse stayed.
turned off the car to try turning it on again w/o the jump. to see if it starts it did, soo in thinking problem solved, i put it into reverse for a around the block test run. as soon as i put into reverse again dashboard died, fuse popped, and so went back to park, engine started stuttering. i shut it off.
then i checked my reverse light wiring thru-out the trunk for a wire that might be touching or ground or bad bulbs or anything obvious.Nothing wrong.
then i tried disconnect the reverse wire from the nuetral safety switch.
started car w/ jump and reverse wire unconnected. put into reverse fuse stays so i took it around the block everything runs fine.
then with it connected again the problem persists.
so now im thinkin theres a short or wire prob not from the switch to the battery [which i originally thought] but a prob from the switch to the reverse lights.
09-29-2009, 06:37 PM
#11
That's because when you put it in reverse power is supplied to the backup lamps, one of them has a short. When you disconnect the reverse wire power is no longer provided to the lamps. Check out the sockets of those lamps either you have an exposed wire or water got in there. Try connecting the reverse wire at the switch and removing the back up bulbs one at a time.
The Meter fuse is used for the backup lights but it also protects the circuit for the charging/alternator, interior lamps and a few other items such as cruise control and ABS . It may be you old alternator was OK because a fault in the backup lights may have affected the charging circuit.
The Meter fuse is used for the backup lights but it also protects the circuit for the charging/alternator, interior lamps and a few other items such as cruise control and ABS . It may be you old alternator was OK because a fault in the backup lights may have affected the charging circuit.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-29-2009 at 06:54 PM.
09-30-2009, 10:25 AM
#12
That's because when you put it in reverse power is supplied to the backup lamps, one of them has a short. When you disconnect the reverse wire power is no longer provided to the lamps. Check out the sockets of those lamps either you have an exposed wire or water got in there. Try connecting the reverse wire at the switch and removing the back up bulbs one at a time.
The Meter fuse is used for the backup lights but it also protects the circuit for the charging/alternator, interior lamps and a few other items such as cruise control and ABS . It may be you old alternator was OK because a fault in the backup lights may have affected the charging circuit.
The Meter fuse is used for the backup lights but it also protects the circuit for the charging/alternator, interior lamps and a few other items such as cruise control and ABS . It may be you old alternator was OK because a fault in the backup lights may have affected the charging circuit.
09-30-2009, 10:28 AM
#13
ok without doing what you said to yet Nopike, the engine wont start now.
what would keep it from not starting because the fuse didnt blow or anything since it recently started and ran fine
what would keep it from not starting because the fuse didnt blow or anything since it recently started and ran fine
09-30-2009, 11:15 AM
#14
What do you mean won't start? Won't crank or cranks but does not start? Do you hear any noises when you turn the key? Where are they coming from? Are headlights bright? Make sure battery positive and ground terminal connnections are clean and tight. Take a wire brush and clean them. For your radio, healights and interior lights to go dim at the same time it would mean your battery voltage is low or your connection at the battery is bad.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-30-2009 at 11:56 AM.
02-27-2010, 05:17 PM
#16
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1
am having a similar issue with my '99 Maxima. I replaced the alternator, then, after driving the car for a couple of miles and turning it off, it will not restart. I verified prior to driving the car that the alternator was charging the battery. The dash lights come on when I turn the key, but that is it...no sounds or anything under the hood. Interestingly, when I remove the key, the dash lights stay on. I have to remove the negative battery cable to get them to go out. When I re-install the battery cable, the dash lights do not come back on. But, this whole phenomenon repeats itself if I try to start the car. I read where someone else in another thread mentioned their dash lights stay on when the key is removed, but that issue wasn't addressed in subsequent replies. This all started after the alternator was replaced. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Also, where can I find replacement OEM-style electrical connectors when the OEM connectors get damaged...i.e. the black connector w/ 2-wires that plugs into the alternator? Thanks in advance.
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