I can't rev the car up past 4,000 rpms, whether in park or while driving, it drives fine besides that.

I got the car's water pump changed and camshaft sensor replaced, it sat in the shop for a week and the car was filthy when I got it.
The problem started about a few days ago after the car had been out of the shop for about 3 days.
I'm not sure on vacuum hoses or PVC, gonna have to check on that.
No modifications.

 

Did you bother to test the MAF, or just post here? You need to give us MUCH more info ... we can't read minds and if you don't tell us the basic facts, how can we help you?

Did you do anything to the car recently?
How long has it been a problem and when did the problem start?
Are you sure you don't have a PVC or vacuum line off anywhere?
Any mods ... if so ... what are they?

More info and you'll get more help.

 

I got the car's water pump changed and camshaft sensor replaced, it sat in the shop for a week and the car was filthy when I got it.
The problem started about a few days ago after the car had been out of the shop for about 3 days.
I'm not sure on vacuum hoses or PVC, gonna have to check on that.
No modifications.

Sorry I didn't give enough info out, I was in a hurry and on my way out, my uncle bought a 7th gen and he wanted me to see it

 

codes??

Have you done anything recently and possibly forgot to plug the maf back in??

 

Help m3 2 i think MAF is just about done to my car wont past 4rpm either and it stays in gear 1 (AT trans) is it because i use engine degreaser and degreased everything the wrong way??

 

I didn't do anything to it that touched the intake, the MAF sensor is plugged in AFAIK.

I had a camshaft sensor and IACV last time I checked for codes, the cam sensor should have cleared because the shop replaced it, and the iacv has been there for a while.

 

So, you have a CEL right now? Pull the codes and post them. I'd be at the shop complaining ... since they just worked on it. Have you taken it to them to see if it's something they might have done? Why was the cam sensor replaced to begin with?

IACV is usually a vacuum leak (bad seat against the TB) so check to make sure it's tight and all the lines are plugged in.

 

You mean you washed the engine? If you didn't take anything apart, most likely no. Don't tell me all this happened right after you washed your engine. As with OP, if you have a check engine light (CEL). Pull codes. And MAFs are easy and cheap to clean, I'd try that before replacing anything.

 

The RPM limit would be consistent with a defective MAF, but could have other causes as well. Make sure that your air filter is clean! There are voltage tests that can be done to diagnose. A search in the forums should give you what you need to proceed.

 

I just wanna say .... Welcome to the .Org!!!! Not too often we get a Jr member who knows what they're talking about, most of them just spit junk out.

Good post too btw! lol

 

I'll check it out in the morning, I'm gonna take the intake apart and check whats up with the MAF sensor and see if it needs cleaning/replacing. I also should mention...my starter's going out and the car only starts well during cold starts.

 

Ok so i checked it out, I didn't see any ruptures in the hoses of any type, except for the seal of the MAF sensor itself, take a look. Could this cause my malfuction/rough idle?



sorry about the crappy cellphone pic, but you guys get the idea.

 

Without a doubt! That is the cause of your problem. You could try to silicone it, or better yet, replace it. IIWM, I'd silicone it and try that at least.

 

Mmk sweet man thanks, what product should I get to silicone it?

 

I'd say that most any sillicone would work ok. Hell for that matter, gasket sealer would work too. Anything to patch that hole that will remain flexable (as the old rubber anyway). You could even epoxy it if you wanted. I would sillicone or gasket sealer (the make your own kind (grey or black).

 

I've been having problems stalling when stopping or idling, and after looking around this site decided to start with a MAF cleaning and move on to TB cleaning or IACV cleaning if that didn't work.

Being a newbie, I found the instructions and vids to do this, and after about 5 minutes saw the same rubber cracking you did. Mine is even worse, but oh well seems like its cheap to get a new one and since the MAF is off perfect timing too.

It just seems odd that with such substantial cracking the problem crept up suddenly, shouldn't I and the OP have seen more of a gradual deterioration?

Also, after the searching, it seems this rubber thing is referred to as a resonator box insulator or an air duct insulator; I'm told its Nissan Part 15623 (with an extensio corelated to your vehicle type). Going to try and get one tomorrow and I'll let you know for sure.

 

Hey JizMax, how exactly does one test na MAF? I have searched high and low on this board and not sure how to do it. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, put in the new rubber seal and instead of stalling at stop signs it stalls while driving now.

I want to try and make sure I have a working MAF before moving on to other parts. I have a little crack in the rubber seal since I pulled it from a part yard but I will silicone this up tomorrow probably but doubt that its the issue since its pretty small.

 

yeah make sure to use maf cleaner not brake cleaner or nething else that you think might do the trick

 

sorry to go off topic...but how much is your % tint ? same all windows ?

 

I have no idea, the previous owner installed it I suppose.

But back on topic, I have 2 vacuum leaks on my intake, both the sensor seal and the boot are cracked, I put some silicone on it and it hasn't given me any problems since, however, I still have a rough and high idle, so I need to take care of that. If anyone needs the part numbers for both parts, I have the diagram the guy at the parts counter gave me with both part numbers.