ls1forlife

It is what it is. Its a 95 gle. 62k miles now. Got everything for 50$ to swap. I have been driving the car with the swap for over a year. Everything works great but:
1. Car will idle at about 1500 when it is moving. So it makes shifting, and slow takes of hard. Some ppl said all i need is a 5spd ecu 95-98? but i will have CEL? why is this?

2. I took out the abs brain to run the stock clutch hydro line. abs is all messed up. Front driver tire locks up easily, back brake doesn work too well, rotor has rust even after 12k miles on it. debating on swapping to a non abs master cylinder and bending the lines to fit. Any suggestions./comments before i do??

thank you every, who already helped. thanks in advance.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

u need a 95 5spd ecu.
You can use a brake master from a non abs car but you'll need to get rid of the ABS block in the bay and probably new lines.
I'm confused as to why you took out the abs brain to run the clutch line?

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

The stock clutch hardline is pretty twisty and I can see how it would be a pain to manuever it around the abs but I wouldnt have taken the abs off and simply used a custom stainless steel line from the master cyl to the slave cyl.

Put the abs back on and run the SS line.

ls1forlife

Thank you all. I used that stock clutch line because i thought it was needed for pressure or something(a nissan engineer told me they used it for a "constant pedal pressure")? The ABS unit is in, and plugged in. I drive the car with it. the problem is on hard stops the front driver side wheel locks up, and the back driver wheel is barely working? It looks like i can just bend the brake lines into a non-abs master cylinder.

As for the ECU, i just cant find a 95 5spd ecu, why would 96-98 through a CEL?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Bleed the brakes, run a SS clutch line, get a 5spd ECU.

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

Get rid of the IACV

ls1forlife

thank you everyone for your input.

I should have been more clear. The clutch line is in, i do not have a problem with it what so ever. all abs components are in like factory. i have been driving the swap for over a year. my issue is(besides the idle from the auto ecu) the abs isnt working. My front driver tire locks up with heavy breaking, and if the car is on the, abs wont put pressure to the rear driver wheel. i have constant surface rust on my rear rotor. Guide pins are brand new and lubed, so are all 4 calipers. Basically that abs module isnt allowing pressure to the rear drive side caliper. do i need to reset the abs or something?

the idle is from the auto ecu, because i cant find a 95' 5spd ecu. I dont think it has anything to do with the IACV, its not that crazy. when the car moves it will go up to 1500 and stay there until you come to a complete stop.

thanks again everyone!

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Maybe you missed my post. It could be that you have a bad ABS unit as well. When you removed it, did you blead the brakes? Look it up in the FSM (field service manual) ... here's a link;

http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1998/br.pdf - Thanks to Pmohr, thank you Paul! That link has served me well.

As for the idel, clean the IACV, take it all apart and clean it, all of it! Also, clean the TB and make sure your air filter is ok, not clogged or too dirty. Most 5spd guys I know have this issue from time to time. I have it too - at times. Your ECU should work, it'd be better to have a 5spd ECU and you can find one here .... http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-1995-1999-43/ You may have to post for one, or you may find one ....

Hope this helps, have a good day!

ls1forlife

thank you so much, Ill do all of that and look at the manual to see if i did it correctly. I bleed it from longest brake line to shortest. I didnt do anything special.

Ill try cleaning my IACV, but my car is recently tuned up and it has a orignal 62k miles. Im positive its my ecu, because it idles up when the car starts moving, not when its sitting there. Soon as you come to a spot itll idle down.

Thank you again, EXTREMELY HELPFUL

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

The auto ECM actually is responsible for the high idle when you start moving. It's very annoying because when you come to a stop it takes a couple of seconds for the idle to drop back to normal. The way you can test it is rev the engine in Park or Neutral and watch the tach. The revs wont drop back to normal right away when you let go of the gas...they drop to about 1200-1500 rpm and hang there for a second or two and then drop to normal. Try this same test but this time with the IACV disconnected

ls1forlife

ok great, would it be safe to leave it disconnected? and by doing this, the idle will stay around 700 and go back there at all times? will it trip the CEL?

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

From my understanding there is a fuse FOR the automatic Trans control unit. Just pull that fuse and call it a day...there might be other ways to do it, but like i said in your other thread i can almost assure you that this isnt because of your auto ECU (your idle issue).

A bad IACV doesnt just jump around in idel it can get stuck (because its dirty) and let too much air thru causing a high idle. THere are different problems that can happen from having a broken or dirty IACV...

Have you checked your codes on your ECU? Post up what codes you have. It might help

Because i wanted to get rid of the CEL, there was ALOT of codes as a result of running auto ecu on a 5spd swap and it was anoying as hell to read all those codes every time i had a problem or a bad sensor NOT related to the auto tranny codes.

You have to pick an ECU that matches the range of months, there are alot of varied differences with our 95, a 95 manual ECU from dec of one year may not work with a maxima that was produced in january of that same year.

ECM = ECU its the same thing pretty much.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

OH! man its been a while since ive done the whole "what ecu to get that will work" thing.

As someone stated in you FS thread you can get a 95 manual ECU FED spec. and it will work with no CEL....sorry, thats what i ended up running in mine....totally crossed my mind...

And as for the bleeding procedure on the maxima, its a bit different than "other" cars. Check the FSM, its a wacky bleeding procedure, kind of goes like an X but does not start from the farthest wheel...I cant remember as i havent bled my brakes in almost 2-3 years lol...i did my bbk and had a similar situation to yours because i was bleeding the brakes the wrong way.

EDIT : Searched and found this for bleeding brakes =

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...repencies.html

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

Yes it will be safe...you might have some cold start issues and yes, it will throw a code.

ls1forlife

but what is the chance the IACV only acts up when the car is moving?



Thank you so much for all your help!

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

I have been trying to think about WHY as well..haha

I know people have had issues similar to this because of problems with their Fast idle cam on the TB....that could be it too maybe?

Does it get slightly better as the car warms up? like does the idle somewhat drop? Maybe its an vacuum leak. Spray some TB cleaner around the IM were it bolts to the LIM and listen for the idle...if it fluctuates thats a leak...

But u still havent answered the question of what Codes you are currently pulling...Pull all your codes and post em, maybe one of them is related to your issue...

ls1forlife

Im going to run the codes this weekend(no scan tool)

but to answer your question: its a 62k original mile car, full tuned up. runs wonderful! even in cold starts itll idle up to 1100 then drop to about 700rpm. then i take off, but as soon as i put in in neutral itll stay at 1500, until about a second after. then it will idle down. Its very steady at about 1500 then it will idle down about a second after its still.

thanks again man, HUGE HELP

ls1forlife

will a 95 5spd ecu, fix my idle issue?

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Well you can pull the codes without a scan tool (incase you didnt know) this is in the Stickies :

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html

I think thats going to be ur best bet to HOPEFULLY have some code that could help us narrow this down, so the sooner the better hehe

ls1forlife

yea i know how to do that, just work 10 hrs a day. Im waiting to get it to a friends shop and i can use his tools. thanks again man

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Its no problem, just report back once you get the codes or any progress!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The idle issue is because of the 4AT ECU, that's really all there is to it. Later ECUs may throw a CEL because of different pinouts and different equipment. An FPCM code, rear O2, other emissions, etc.

ANY ECU 95-98 will work, just some quirks with the 4AT ECUs, and codes depending on the year. There's nothing about any of those years that will make them just plain not work (don't know why that was said, but that's just incorrect).

As for the brakes, bleed them again, in the proper order. Did they all work properly before the swap?

ls1forlife

Thanks again. to answer the brake question. the abs worked flawlessly before the swap, now im having the lock up in the front, and the not working in the back.

I agree that its the 4at ecu, ill try to find a correct 1995 5spd ecu?

thanks again really aprreciate it.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Pmohr .... where ya been hidin?

If the ABS worked before the swap, it should work ok after as well. Let us know when you re-bleed the brakes what you find out.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Hmmm, this is all news to me. I never had problems like that with my 5spd swap. But i guess thats because some ECU's do it and other dont. Its wierd cause i have a pretty early production date on my 95 as well...meh...learn something new everyday....

But I dont think anyone said that an ECU of the wrong year will not work, I was implying that in order for him to avoid any codes he has to get either the right ecu for his production date, OR get a FED spec ecu (to avoid the variations in Smog Equip and all that other jazz) If i remember correctly there was a break in 95 that had a manual evap canister control and others had electronic...thats an example of the problems i went thru trying to find the right ECU...from what i can remember...it was a while ago...

I ended up giving up finding the exact production date matching ECU and just got FED spec ECU...it was a PITA finding the right one (at the time)...

ls1forlife

So i think im going to try and find a 95 5spd ecu. I have been looking since i did the swap, i never even found a 5spd edu from a 4th gen, so i doubt ill find anything. My local yards just have autos. Im guessing i need to find a 95 because 96 and up and more sensors and things to trip teh CEL light?

I will still try and run my codes, but if i remember correctly, my CEL came on about 5 months after the swap was completely and during a monster burnout? i dont know if that helps at all?

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Lol, i duno...you gota pull the codes man...

As for the ECU, just get a Federal Spec manual ECU from a 95 and it should work just fine. (no codes)

Check out www.Car-Part.com You should have better luck there...

Juscruzn

iTrader: (3)

96 and up ECU have alot more emission crap then '95. Stick with '95. Keep looking for someone parting out a '95. I thought I wasn't going to find one either, however I found one on here in a couple of weeks. Don't wait for a response to your WTB ad, actively ask people who are parting out '95 MT's.

If you get really desperate, I'll get one at a yard here and mail it to you. PM me if you want to do that.

ls1forlife

thank you very much, some1 was parting out a 95. but the ecu was sold by the time he responded/me emailing him. im going to try a few more yards. its just finding a 95 stick, isnt that easy.....

thanks again man, and if you see one, pick it up. Ill paypal you asap

ls1forlife

I bleed the brakes today according to the field manual listed above. The battery was disconnected and bleed:RR, LF, LR, FR.

Yet Still the front driver's side wheel locks up on semi hard braking. Its like the ABS isnt working for that wheel, only that wheel locks up?? Any ideas??


once again, thank you everyone for your input!

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Is your ABS light lit, or does it flash at start up or continuiously? Sounds like a bad ABS sensor at that wheel. I wouldn't think it would be a bad calliper, but it could be. Make sure your ABS sensor is connected well at the plug.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed, I would test the sensor, and make sure the reluctor ring on the axle is clean and free of metallic debris (as well as the sensor itself, of course).

urmab

iTrader: (7)

Well as far as the month go I say don't worry your self about that to much since i have a 95 ecu in my 98 for over 2 years now. Now issues yet I did have an issue with the rear o2 but I resolved it. So as far as the ecu goes just get any 5 speed 95 ecu

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Is it possible that when you put the abs actuator back in that you didn't place all of the lines in there proper place and maybe mixed up the right front and left rear?

ECU 100% WILL take care of your idle issue, I don't know what that guy who said otherwise was thinking. I have one but you will need to do some work to get it code free. Actually, even if you use a '95 ecu you will need to do some work to get it code free for the p/n code you will get.

ls1forlife

No possible way really to hook the lines up wrong, they are all hard lines and fit exactly where they need to be.

I heard a 95 is a direct plug and play? no codes no problems?

ls1forlife

Ill clean the ring and check the resistance of the sensor. thanks, good idea. I just dont know why the abs works for all other 3 wheels. I thought if it had a problem, none of the wheels would have abs?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Gotchya on lines, just wanted to check. I'd try bleeding them again, real good, and check for any frozen or dead calipers. After that I'd suspect the proportioning valve because I have seen them go bad (on other cars) and cause similiar symptoms.


'95 or '96 will be hassle free for your '95 unless it is a '95 fed-spec emmisions(lack of evap purge volume valve) in which case if you got a 95 cali or 96 fed/cali you would get a few evap codes unless you swapped that stuff in. So look out for that. Also, my ecu's are temporarly not for sale anyways until I sell the 5-speed conversion package in my sig.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

If it detects a problem and kicks the light on then yes it will disable abs.

ls1forlife

Great thank you so much! the abs light didnt come on for sure. i think the sensor would be the best place to start. i can look up its resistance and go about it that way. or just swap sensors from side to side and do a quick road test. all break works, its just annoying have that wheel skid. thanks again for the help.

I have been looking for a 95 5spd ecu for 2 years now...

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Did you swap in an axle without a ring?