ok so i have thought for a new design front motor mount. please forgive the VERY crude drawing it was just a quick thought to judge interest. if their is any a better drawing will e released before the first one is produced. the first pic will be my crude drawing the 2nd pic is the bushing im thinking of using if it ever gets built. the OD of the bushing will be 2" and of coarse the proper size hole in the middle for the bolt.

 

Ok? What feedback are you looking for exactly?

 

should i pursue this idea or or drop it? would their be any interest in it if was built right?

 

doubt there would be, unless you priced them right. Even then it's iffy. You can get stock mounts for like $30 a piece, then spend $40 and buy a can of poly to stiffen them up.

 

thats still a ghetto way of doing it and some times the polly can squeeze out of the sides of the mount. if i could coe up with a set of 4 of these type mounts with the small round solid bushings it would really stiffen up the front end. i cant remember who said it but they said they could go through a front motor once about every 2-3 months. for those out there that run their car at the track a lot with sticky tires and a little more then stock power could rip the stock mounts to shreds esp with a 5 speed doing clutch drops.

 

Priced to compete with ES poly bushings, I think it might be popular. However, I think you'd need to do far more design work than MSPaint. Do you have solidworks or another CAD program to properly design this? Will you be able to build one and then test it yourself? If I were you, I'd design it properly with CAD, then run software on it to analyze if it will be strong enough, then produce 2-3 of them and try them in your own car, and maybe send them to some of the more prominent racing members like grey99max or Jime to see what they think.

 

i want to know where you can get stock mounts for 30.00 dude. i just paid 148.00 from courtesy nissan for 1 mount. i dont do used either.

 

ebay, same place courtesy got theirs before they sold it to you...
Remember, this thread is about the front/back mounts, not the side one you're talking about.

 

Poly filling mounts is pretty ghetto IMHO, to each their own. But i have known people that do the poly filling and they have to keep coming back to redo it more often than not...

I got my Poly ES front and rear MM and i never looked back...with my RMT and hard launches for over 50k (ish) miles and they are still rock solid.

If you can make some that will compete with the ES mounts by all means go ahead.

As for Auto CAD and all that, i think thats a bit overkill...I think you can fab up a custom motor mount without any of that...its been done HUNDREDS of times...Just make sure that you have a compitent welder and use comon sense....

 

if you have a welder, you might as well mod the stock mounts. Incorporate a lip on the edges to keep the poly more securely in it's place. I might try it since I'm renting a welder anyway.

 

Maybe im not understanding what your talking about...but i dont c this doing anything worth the time...

adding a lip on the side isnt going to do anything other than make it more difficult or impossible to replace the mounts later down the road...

 

looks good, looks like it leaves room for turbo pipes
had to be pretty sturdy tho, what material would the casing be made of?

 

Front mount is not nearly as important or goes nearly as much as the rear mount and Trans mount. I would think of just someone redsigning all of them.

 

Every mount thread I see, people keep contradicting themselves. You're saying front does nothing, others say front and rear do most of the work while trans and side do barely anything.

 

no its not, different screws, rubbers thicker, and i had one and it was junk compared to a courtesy mount. the main bolt broke off when i was installing it. and its no way 30.00 bucks even for an ebay unless your buying complete junk.

 

yes before the mount is built it will deff have a better design the ms paint drawing was just sorta of to get my idea out there quick and judge interest. i see no need in putting hours into a design that no one has any interest in.

as for the material it will be either 3/16" or 1/4" plate steel with a piece of 2" pipe welded on top that the bushing will be pressed into. if costs can be kept low enough a few holes will be punched into the sides of the plates to lighten it up a bit.

 

I have always wanted stronger mounts. I've tried welding and modding stock mounts before. I use to think polly filling was ghetto to till I tried it my way and I have done this to three cars. You will need motor mounts off the car. I used new ones from ebay 3 mounts for $120. You need one tube of 3m window weld. They sell it at car quest or autozone its about $17.00, you will also need a caulck gun. You will need to use rubber blocks 1/4 inch by 2 inch and 1/2 by 2 inch and i'ts kinda self explanatory. Then you cut the blocks 1 1/4 and stick them into all holes and cracks and fill the motor mounts with 3m window weld with the material bleeding through both sides leaving no air pockets. Top off the sides, smooth them out kinda like a dome. If done wright it will look good and solid. It may take 3 days to dry. I have seen it dry in a day but on a very hot day. It was 90* out. For $137.00 for three solid mounts I don't think any one could compete with this price.

 

that really sounds ghetto.

 

the only energy suspension mounts that ive found for our cars are the pieces that go in the sides of a factory mount. they kinda fill in the open spaces or im i missing something do they make a full mount for our cars?
like these
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Inserts_lg.jpg

i think those are also kinda ghetto but i guess they do the job kinda.

 

Witch part the part where you will have to do some work .

 

what i just describe is how to make your own molds that don't just sit there that actually do something.

 

want a strong mount that wont break but is less ghetto than window glue and works? do what i just did take a piece of 1"x1/8" steel or alum and drill 2 1/2" holes in it 6.125" apart. then take the nut off the top motor mount bolt and the lower front bolt but do not take the bolts out. place the strip of metal that u just made over the bolts and re install nuts and torque to spec. sounds really ghetto but so far mine is holding after a few clutch drops and giving it heck for about 500 miles so far.

this took me about 15 min to make and install including jacking up the car. then again i have always liked the feel of solid motor mounts. (before yal flame) this is just a band aid for my broke front mount until i can come up with the money to make the mount seen above.

 

3m window weld is Polly urethane

 

thats installed like bubble gum. any way u look at it steel is stringer then window glue and it wont squeeze out of the hole.

i ave filled a few mounts with the window glue and it works good for about 500-600 miles till it comes out of the hole like a watter melon seed.

 

Then you did not do it the right way. The only way it will come out is if its not connected through the middle and was not dry and bonded. If you put the rubber blocks in the right way there will no flex to squeeze any thing out. Well like I said I've done this to three cars and all three cars have been driven hard for over 2000 miles and they were all 5 speed and they all still in place. to each's own.