IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

So I've been having some weird things happen to my car, electrically speaking.

The first issue:

Whenever I really get on the car, such as WOT at 60mph, it seems to trigger the CEL. The codes are:

• P0159 - Code: P0159 | Description: O2 Sensor Fault
  
• P0158 - Code: P0158 | Description: O2 Sensor Fault
  
• P0139 - Code: P0139 | Description: O2 Sensor Fault
  
• P0138 - Code: P0138 | Description: O2 Sensor Fault
  

This started happening like 2 weeks ago. My O2 sensors all relatively new (within a year or two old). Any ideas? I don't know how to use an Ohm Meter and I have tried...I can never get any accurate readings. Those things f'in confuse me to bits. I've cleared the code one time, did WOT on the highway, and it came back. I just cleared it again...but haven't pushed the car.

---------------------------------------------

The second issue:

I've had a LED'ed manual climate control in my car for a LONG time. After about a month of having it, the following happened:

• Top portion of the fan speed dial (near the OFF) blinks on and off
• The face button blinks on and off OR dies completely
• The face/foot button blinks on and off OR dies completely

Well, I've sold the climate control to another member and after installing my stock unit (which worked fine before I swapped it for the LED'ed unit), the entire row of buttons (face, foot, front windshield, etc.) blink on and off or stay off for minutes at a time. The temperature slider and fan speed lights, however, work fine.

I checked the pins on the back, and the wiring, and everything looks good. Also, no other lights in my car are affected. I changed my BCM (Body Control Module) last summer.

What the hell is going on with my car?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Anyone? 40 views...

smai555

have you checked what the FSM is recommending? connectors, air leaks, injectors etc.. etc..

the 2nd one i would say ... my clock keeps turning off randomly and resets to 1:00 so if you find the cause let me know

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Other than testing with an Ohm Meter for a wire issue (which I suck at troubleshooting), yes, I have looked the car over. No intake leaks, my IM's were off when I de-00VI'ed so all the injectors, etc. were looked at then. Everything is good/new/in working order.

smai555

sounds like your 02s are weak .....what did you get when you test them on the ohm meter and what is the meter set at?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I didn't test them because it's been pouring out the last 2 days and because I didn't want to waste my time. I've used the Ohm Meter during other issues I've had (P0171 code a few months ago) and even after googling instructions, etc. I still never could figure out how to use it. For whatever reason, I just can't grasp the concept of how to use an Ohm Meter.

smai555

its pretty simple when you turn it on touch the two leads to each other you get a .001 -ish reading so u have .001 ohm of resistance or almost no resistance

so when you have a sensor there may be a few different leads to touch refer to the FSM to know which leads to measure

thats pretty much basic idea of it every meter will have different options

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

What should the default Ohm Meter setting be? There is like 1.5k, 10k, 20k etc if I recall?

EnervinE

iTrader: (11)

It depends on the magnitude of resistance you're dealing with in the circuit. My multimeter has the settings 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and 2000k. For example, if you're testing a resistor to find the resistance it supplies (such as a 470kohm resistor for the knock sensor) you'll want to set it to 200k or 2000k, otherwise the reading will be out of range.

However, when you're simply testing continuity in a circuit, there should be little to no resistance, so you'll want to set it to a lower setting to test (such as 200 or 2000). If the meter doesn't respond or stays blank, there is a lack of continuity (i.e. the circuit is open).

EDIT: Oh, and if you didn't know: Don't ever test continuity on a live circuit. This is VERY important, otherwise you could fry your ohm meter.

smai555

you have to understand what your measuring to understand how to use a ohm meter

ohms is a unit of measurement, much like a pounds is used to measure weight

for example
a light bulb - current comes in one way and goes out the other the will be resistance in between



so a sensor, well say an O2, is designed to give X amount of "resistance" given how much oxygen passes through it

as far as setting the ohm meter

1.5k 10k 20k

this is the range of measurement meaning it will not measure past this amount ie 1.5k, 10k etc etc

k= 1000

SO 1.5k = 1,500 ohms
10k = 10,000 ohms
20k= 20,000 ohms

spark plug wires have alot of resistance because it carries ALOT of voltage through think about how many volts it will take to make the electricity arch through air

so you measure spw on the 10 or 20k setting

where as the sensors dont have as much resistance so we measure them on the lower setting

get it?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I think so...lol. I work in IT (Desktop/Networking), yet I hate this side of electronics.

Do I just unplug the sensors (near the IM and near the front VC) and put the probes onto those pins?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Ilya,

I have the same issue with my heater / AC control. Exactly the same - slider no problem, the buttons blink (not all the time, seems random). As for the CEL at WOT, that's a good one. Seems like it could be a voltage issue, but I know you have a new bat and alt, right? I get a CEL (again, random) that stays on for a bit, then it will go off. Always an oxy sensor in my case too. I got tired of replacing them, so I quit. I have to wonder if it's just the age of the car (in my case, 11 yrs old) and some grounding issues with the factory wiring. Not the same issue as adding a ground loop either, there are points where the ECU, TCM (for autos), BCM, etc ... all ground to the frame of the car. If those spots (or some of them in our case possibly) are not making good contact anymore due to corrosion, age, atmosphere, any number of things, it could cause these issues. Unfortunatly, I don't know of a good way to find them and or test / fix them. And, I could be off base here for all I know ....

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case.

I cleaned my grounds maybe 2 or 3 years ago when I first got the car.

I do have a new alternator and battery.

I can live with the CEL, because it seems to go off/stay off more than it stays on. The heater lights BUG THE HELL OUT OF ME THOUGH. I'm almost temped to buy a climate control on EBay and give that a try.

xorox

iTrader: (7)

i ahve the same climate control issue and it started after i also changed the lights to led, weird. i thought lights all burned out but half of mine does flash once in a while so i dunno. i would love to hear a solution to this.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Maybe I'll try cleaning the grounds in the engine bay (by both headlights and near driver side strut tower) to see if it helps any...it seems like my two problems ARE related.

xorox

iTrader: (7)

i dont know if its ground though, why is it that only the climate control light went off? like i have auto ccontrol and my defrost and hazard still work fine only on climate control did the lights go off slowly bulb at a time then recently i noticed that it flashes once in a while lol

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

My hazard doesn't work, but my LED hazard one did. I've had the hazard die on me in my first Maxima too. I think that's common lol.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

I've had lots of LED problems similar to what you are describing as well. I did all the LED work in my car myself and have a great feel for the inner workings of all the dash equip. However I can't describe why my Manual Climate Control will not stay lit. My row of buttons to select where the air flows has never stayed lit for more than a few weeks before it goes crazy.

At first I thought it was just bad connections but upon inspection, every connection was fine. I feel as though it has something to do with the way the unit is powered. The LEDs draw such small current as regulated by the resistors added to them. I feel as though the car's current is fluctuating too much causing the LEDs or resistors to fail.

This is simply a guess.

This is my 4th manual climate control I have owned.
1st - ruined by painting backs of buttons red
2nd - fried due to poor wiring of leds
3rd - pieces in my garage
4th - in the car with only the hot cold leds and the leds indicating what is selected working

Frustrating to say the least.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

WTF? lol. And it's not even because we went LED and went back (in my case).

JtzMax, I believe, had a stock climate control that did this without him tinkering/replacing it.

WTF? So I just have to deal with it you think?

nengers

well this doesn't have anything to do with your probs..but the other day i was driving and hit a bump and my gauge cluster lights died..i went to replace a blown fuse which was the int ill one and when i went to put in the new one it blew my tail fuse which is in the eng bay area..i dont know exactly what is wrong here..maybe a short in my wiring somewhere or maybe my dimmer switch..i need help thanks guys..oh..its for my 4th gen thanks

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

A little bit of advice for you. If your first sentence of your post is "well this doesn't have anything to do with your probs.." don't post in that thread. Either search for similar threads already existing, post in the I'm a newb and have a question thread, and if all else fails start a new thread.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

On topic: I was browsing around the Hidplanet L.E.D. forum the other day and saw some mention of other cars in which the computer can sense whether a bulb is present or blown. I doubt this is the case in our pre millennium cars but perhaps is the computer or electrical system sensing the led's we have installed and sending inconsistent power causing our retrofitted LEDs to flicker?

Just a thought.....

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I'm no longer running the LED's. That's the thing. I DID have LED's, but those are gone and my stock climate control (which used to work) is now having the issues.

Also, I've driven my car for about a week now with the CEL cleared and have pushed it WOT, and the light is still off.

Meanwhile, since my OP, the position buttons on the climate control are OFF and STAY off. No more flickering.

I think I'm going to go and buy a used climate control on EBay and give it a whirl.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Reading the original post over FTW! My bad.

Could the bulbs just be loose or on the way out?

I am planing on opening up my climate control within the month and making sure everything is installed correctly. Now that I'm driving home from work in the dark I want my cabin properly illuminated.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I would understand if one bulb flickered...might mean it's dying or on it's way out. But when the whole row goes out or on together? Something else is going on. I'm thinking it's a faulty circuit on the climate control board.

Also, my climate control is manual, so they don't have twist bulbs.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

The whole row of buttons is illuminated by one bulb.

There are 3 bulbs that illuminate the manual cc. One near the fan selector, one in the middle of the buttons that is diffused through a clear plastic piece, and one that illuminates the hot cold slider and ac button (that is also diffused by a clear plastic piece). The bulbs are sort of twist bulbs. The are mounted in plastic pieces that slip through a hole and lock in.

Here is the back of the bulb

Perhaps that plastic piece is lose or the bulb is on its way out.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Hhmmm.

Anyone have instructions on how to take this thing apart and the bulb type/# that's inside? I'll gladly do it if it'll help the rest of us.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Here is a write up done by an org member.

http://www.petah.org/maxima/climate.htm

also here
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=122

I know people have changed the bulbs before but I can't seem to find the info on them.


EDIT:
just found this about the bulbs

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-controls.html

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Thanks Broski. I might tackle this, this weekend.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Good luck if you do.

I've had mine apart numerous times now over the years. Its fairly straightforward especially if you aren't cramming new LED's in. Once you remove the two screws holding the circuit boards in you will feel a bit of resistance most likely. The buttons sort of clip to these other little buttons on the inside. It just requires a bit of a pull. You will feel what i'm talking about when you do it. Upon reassembly you just push each of the buttons and it clicks them back in place. Also be sure if the clear plastic diffuser pieces slip out to slip them in their tracks in the side of the unit. Hard to explain but you will see when you open it up.

I really want to dive in and re-do all my LED's, though I'm 90% sure everything was installed properly the last time I had it open. Wedding this weekend will have the maxima traveling a few hundred miles instead.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Yeah I'm just gonna replace with radioshack bulbs, no LED's. See if it works. Figure this would be easier than buying a whole new climate control.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

So I just wanted to bump this thread with some new info.

My HID harness recently **** the bed (again). While the car didn't have HID lamps working, my climate control didn't flicker and everything lit up.

I got a new harness from TheRetrofitSource.com (and not the org member) and again, my climate control lights don't flicker...and I dunno if it's just me (I am a musician), but my sub/amp is hitting MUCH harder in ALL speakers.

How possible is it that my battery/alternator was taking too much of a hit and couldn't power the climate control/audio system well enough causing the issues. I'll have to listen (forgot to today) to see if I still have alternator whine in my audio system (been having that for a long time - can't see to get rid of it)...if that goes away too then AWESOME.

Or maybe it's all just a coincidence.