fulloboost

Guys I need some help and this is the first time I had to make a new thread. I am getting a camshaft sensor code 01 01 and no spark in cylinder 2 and 3. I have searched and read different threads for days on end now and am trying to figure out if my timing chain skipped a tooth or not, if it did jump a tooth shouldn't the cylinders be still getting a spark but just at the wrong time? I tried getting a new cam sensor and that did not help. I checked the wires coming out of the ecm and have even tried a diff ecm. My only guess is that the timing chain did in fact skip a tooth, but I am trying to figure out how to tell if it did or not before I pay for the timing chain readjustment.

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

If you have a code for the cam position sensor, replace the sensor. Car wont start without it.

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

I also think my car jumped timing. its at the mechanic now. all my cylinders have low compression and i also dont get a spark in cyl 1,3,4,5. cyl 1 has no compression at all.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I believe if cylinders 2&3 are the only ones that lost spark it does point to a timing chain issue. If the sensor was bad, none of the cylinders would have spark.

See if google can bring up the tech sheet that describes that.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Doesnt the car make a rattling noise or something like that if you lose a tooth? (I assumed it will, like any other chain and sprocket..) Can someone enlighten me about this?

Also I was looking through the troubleshooting flowchart for engine misfire in the FSM, and it doesn't mention the camshaft position sensor. Apart from the harness, connector, and the sensor itself, the FSM also indicates that you should check the starter and the starter circuit for P0340 (Dont ask me why).

fulloboost

well the car starts just fine but if i drive it, it tends to die because its too rich im guessin. I replaced the sensor and it didnt help that is why I'm wondering if it jumped a tooth. I have done everything I could possibly think of. Funny thing is it happened on the day I bought my project 240 lol. But I really want my baby back on the road asap so Im looking for any suggestions.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have spark on just two cylinders, its probably your coils.
Check the resistance on your coils. Also try wrapping the boots in electrical tape as they may be arcing, I guess its pretty common especially on #2.

fulloboost

I've already tried swapping the coils on the same clyinder bank and its not just the coils. There is no signal from the ecu. It'll get one spark and thats it!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There's a difference between physically losing a tooth on one of the sprockets and the timing chain jumping a tooth.

The reason it also points to the starting system (same as the CKPS REF and POS diagnostics) is that if the engine is cranked over slowly or irregularly, the ECU can get 'confused' for lack of a better word.

As for cylinders 2/3 not firing when the chain jumps - http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.htm

The important information that you've completely neglected to mention is did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this issue?

fulloboost

The only thing I did prior to this is change the spark plugs and thats it. Nothing that has to do with timing was touched. In fact I moved my car two feet and it started firing normal for a couple seconds and then misfired worse. After that it hasn't fired right since then. It's not the coils, not the wiring, or the ecm so with my luck im pretty sure it jumped a tooth on the cam chain and that is why I get a 01 01 camshaft code. Please lmk what you think pmohr because you seem like one of the best techs on here. Thanks again.

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

so all you have to do is put the chain back to its correct timing and it will start right up??

fulloboost

Are you asking me a question lol. I'm not really sure. Like I stated above it starts up but only runs on four cylinders!

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

I was askin pmohr since he sounds like he knows abaut all this stuff.

So yours runs huh? mine is dead. it cranks and cranks but no start. it even backfired back through the intake while i was trying to crank it.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

So you moved one of the coils (2 or 3) into cylinders 1, 4, 5 or 6 and it was still misfiring on 2 or 3 (depending which one you moved)? That means your coils are fine.

If the misfire followed the coil, then obviously the coil is bad.

I don't get your post, which is why I'm clarifying this for you.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Did you try checking continuity from the ECU to the ignition coil harness? And check for continuity where it should not be? (I am thinking - maybe something opened up or in the 0.00001% chance more than one broke and are shorting out).
Also, please correct me if I am wrong, after all, I am a noobie trying to learn.

fulloboost

Just to clarify for everyone, the coils are all fine. Number 2 and 3 cylinders are not getting a spark and/or a signal from the ecu. My dad is an electrical engineer and we tested the wiring, unless we missed something which is possible. I just don't think the timing chain can jump by itself without being messed with. Any more help is apppreciated as I am stumped and am goin to bring the car to a master techs house, who is goin to check the mechanical timing for me.

fulloboost

bump still looking for some help

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

How do you KNOW they are fine? Did you do what I said? In two posts, you've said they are fine. Unless reading is owning me, I haven't seen how you came to that conclusion. It sounds like bad coil packs. Did you change that CPS sensor yet? You should do that first before anything else and see if it works.

Start small. Don't automatically assume the timing jumped.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Timing chain is not going to just skip a tooth for no good reason; that would be extremely unusual, and very time consuming/expensive to fix. I would not start looking for the issue to be the chain. Like IlyaK said, change out the CPS first.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

The OP mentioned he found no trigger signal to the coil. He also mentioned that he tried a different ECU.
@OP:
1.How did you find that out? You actually sat with a multimeter or a noid lamp to as the car was running/while cranking?

2. You actually tried a different ECM? Does your car have anti theft system? IIRC, if you change the ECU, they key has to be programmed into it, and the dealer has to do it right? I believe even if you now put back your old ECU, its memory would have been cleared and even it needs to learn the electronic key signal.

3. f you actually tried a different ECU and there is still no spark (rather trigger signal), I cant really imagine it being anything other than a short/bad ground. Unless you consider the minute probability of the second ECU having same fault as the first!

Check the trigger circuit for a short. Are you getting a trigger to the fuel injectors? How about the crankshaft position sensor?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

think cylinders 2 & 3 are on the same coil driver (inside ecu). If you have a shorted out coil (maybe from the plug change somehow) it could be shorting out the driver in both ecu's. I'm going to agree with Maximamisfire's last post, I would like to know that information as well, in addition to ohm specs on the coils themselves. Also, smell the ecu, if it smells bad pop the covers off and take a look at the coil & injector drivers, when they burn they burn and it's pretty noticable, it will melt and soot up the inside of the case near it. If it turns out the driver is fried don't put another ecu in until you find the short, allthough if your dad is an electrical engineer he should be able to put a new driver in your original ecu, it's a pretty simple mosfet I think.

cashoit

maybe this is a silly comment but i have to ask anyways...

Since u mentioned u only changed the spark plugs and the ignition coils are workin fine...did u make sure the the spark plugs were completely thread engaged. Its easy for them to be off centered and cause incorrect firing.

fulloboost

I have checked the coils for resistance and also checked to see the frequency of the trigger signals coming from the ecm using a oscilloscope. Not trying to be rude but you guys keep telling me to check the coils and I just wanted everyone to know that it was the first thing I did, I swapped coils and tried putting in other ones! I also replaced the camshaft sensor and that didn't help either. There doesn't appear to be a short anywhere that I could find. I did everything I could and ended up trailering my car to a Nissan Master Techs house. He was a Master Tech for 17 years at Nissan so I'm hoping he will have it figured out soon. One thing I forgot to check was the trigger signal to the camshaft sensor. I will keep you guys updated, if you have any more ideas feel free to throw them my way. Thanks!

fulloboost

I have no anti-theft problems even after switching ecus..I thought that key immobilizers came on 99 and above maximas?

fulloboost

I also tested the spark plugs out of the cylinder so the spark plugs not being threaded enough is out of the question. I'm not a noob but am also no Master Tech yet...lol

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I didnt find any info about your car, so I just pointed out a possibility.

Just want to know, the second ecu too is not giving out any spark signal right -indicating some input to the ECU is wrong. Then isnt the ECU/OBD II system programmed to find out which input is out of spec?

Also, I have been thinking about this for a while, it may sound stupid (well, I am a noob, I retain the right to be stupid ), if the ECU drivers burn out or something and it starts missing a cylinder, can we just use the other signals and generate a trigger signal at the right time using a simple circuit? Is it even possible? Just for the sake of knowing, I know its more practical to just buy an ECU from the junkyard. People on this thread seem to be hardcore electrical engineers

Please do let us know what happens to be the problem with your car.

fulloboost

So I got the dreaded call from the master tech today and he told me my motor is shot. He realized that the flywheel wasn't turning everytime the crankshaft was. Basically the crankshaft ruined the motor on the inside from what I understood. I'm looking for another vq30 or maybe even de-k if he is willing to do it. So sad to see it go at only 220k +..

fulloboost

Looks like I might be dropping in my ka24de into my 240 b4 the max gets its motor.

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

time for a vq35 swap!

fulloboost

I wish I could do that but I'm also trying to get my 240 running so I'll just be lookin for a vq30 and then I can always do a RMT setup on it once I have more money lol