IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I've been searching but a lot of threads that my words have returned have zero or 1 post which doesn't help.

I'm changing my rear calipers. How do I twist the cylinder in and out?

Also, my e-brake is very easy to pull up and a while ago I actually had it lock up a rear wheel and not let go (causing in a lot of smoke after driving 3 miles at 45mph lol). I want to take care of this as well. Any recommendations? Is that because my caliper is bad or because my e-brake is not adjusted? It used to be good, and I never touched it. Does it tend to go out of adjustment by itself?

maxxx25

i had that happen to me awhile back you probley need new calipers and the only way to make them go in is to get a special tool from autozone it looks like a little block but it has special groves in it and u use a 3/8 rachet to surn it in or out hope this helps if not hit me up

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Hmm. Okay. Thanks.

I'm getting new calipers regardless.

sparky1562

You can turn them out with a set of needle nose pliers or similar. From what I remember on mine, if you have to try hard at all, you need to replace it.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Thanks.

Reece616

iTrader: (3)

i had a rear caliper seize about a year ago, my dad and i replaced both rears, and to push the piston back in, we just used a big c-clamp. I'm not sure if that's what you were asking. I don't remember if it went all the way back in, but since i was replacing them, it didnt matter.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

May i Interject? Use of the E-Brake is vital to the survival of your rear calipers... There are so many reasons to use your E-Brake noone thinks about.

A Short List..

1. Prevent Cable From Seizing (How would you like to Need it and it not be there?)
2. Its a Great thing to Use on HILLS...
3. Helps reduce unwanted friction on the transmission when on a slope of ANY kind.
4. Helps to Keep that Piston your having problems with from seizing
5. Its much cheaper to use it than to replace it. Ask Anyone whose had to.. 2XX Bucks from the dealer. And 1XX from the OE Eqiv's... Oh and thats a REBUILT...

Only disclaimer... The E-Brake is a two step Process.. You see guys it goes Up..... And Down... So Make sure when you start using it whenever you park, you remember to put it down, Preferably BEFORE you start moving?

Just trust me you get into the habit pretty quickly of using it.. I Always use it whenever i get out of my car.

Reece616

iTrader: (3)

very true...

i don't remember what got me started using my ebrake, but everytime i park, it goes on. However, mine doesn't grab like it used to/ supposed to... any ideas on how to fix that? It actually stopped working properly after the rear caliper replacement.

(sorry for the thread-jack)

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

That's why mine seized. I used it on a slope, then drove 4 miles, to find my rear brakes smoking like a **** (with the brake down). Which is why I'm replacing the calipers.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

yes, but is it used daily? cause honestly the idea of your ebrake piston locking up after only 4 miles at 45.... not makin me belive your a Daily user of it...

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Not daily, but I'm at my brothers about 2 times a week and use it primarily on his driveway.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

oh, well jeez idk man I guess our real calipers are notorious for this kinda crap though.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Yeah they are. I've gone through a couple. Front and back.

99Maxima1714

Like wise I use mine everytime I park..but I don't use it with any autos unless I'm on a hill..it has always been nature I guess.

My wife moved my car in the driveway the other night and it too her three or four tries stalling out before she realized that you need to put the e-brake down. While the whole time I'm standing at the front door laughing my butt off at her. She's not very experienced with a manual.

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

Ugh my rear calipers both froze up on me about 2 years ago, I replaced them with AZ ones but they came with a lifetime guarantee on them, I'm not sure where you got yours Ilya, but you might want to consider it.

Mine weren't locked up but they were pretty damn close, and I saw an increase of 3-4 mpg after switching out the calipers, thats how badly they were sticking.

As far as the e-brake goes, you can adjust it by popping out the boot and using either a 8mm or 10mm socket to adjust the tightness/looseness of the handle. Its the only screw there and you can see that its the beginning of the ebrake cable, you can't miss it.

NisMoN00B

iTrader: (2)

You should be able to turn the cylinder on the new caliper with just brute strength. If not, use some long nosed pliers and it should be quite easy.

Don't touch the EBrake, as soon as you change out the siezed one it should return to its "normal" state otherwise adjust where necessary.

hornepirate

iTrader: (23)

turning in the calpiers are a pita. I just did my rears about 2 weeks. Auto store sell a $10 caliper turning tool that made the job very very easy... You can use needle nose pliers...but it can be very frustrating. Just go out and buy the tool.

NisMoN00B

iTrader: (2)

The OP is changing the calipers not the pads. New calipers' pistons are easy to wrangle with without buying the caliper tool.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

If you can squeeze in the pistons on the stock calipers with a c-clamp, you broke 'em.

addanis01

yeah sounds like you need a special tool to take them out or you have to get a pro to do em for you

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I'll be fine.

I'm changing all four calipers, all four rotors, and all four sets of pads. And adjusting the e-brake.

I'll be fine. From the sound of it I should be able to twist the cylinder in the rears just fine, and push the fronts in with a clamp (how I do it every time). Good enough.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

I twisted in my rears ones with a strong pair of needle-nose pliers. The 10-buck tool would have been nice to have.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

All you have to do is unhook the e-brake cable from the caliper arm.

If the caliper is sticking you'll know because the e-brake cable will move freely. However, you should also inspect the full length of exposed cable - I had one that got pinched by a lazy service shop when they lifted it, and water got in and the brake would bind when it was below freezing. Took a little bit to figure that one out.

I would not change the calipers if it's not necessary. If you do the caliper will come fully retracted and you won't need a piston tool.

If you do need to push back the piston on your existing caliper (pad change), rent a rear caliper tool from the local auto parts store. The good ones turn and press on the piston at the same time. The ok ones are just an adapter for a wrench and you have to push while turning manually - it's ok because the adapter only fits the grooves in the piston so-so and it tends to slip loose. On older calipers they can be impossible to move with just a pliers.

Dave

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

My money is on the ebrake cable. They are notorious for rubbing on the chassis/trailing arm. This lets dirt and water in which corrodes the cable. A quick fix is to reach around the wheel and pull the lever on the caliper to release the cable.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

This is turning into Rear Brakes 101

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Tell me about it. Last winter my rear right wheel seized on a cold morning and I flatspotted my snow tire. I could clearly see that a shop had crushed it while putting my car on a lift. I replaced the cable and all year it was in a shop only once. I got a look at it again the other week and those morons managed to crush it too. So now I have to change it again before the really cold weather hits. Asshats. To think, they consider themselves professionals at this stuff. That cable is right there in your face when you look at the rear corner.

Dave

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I just replaced the rear calipers, rotors, and pads. We got all the air out of the system and I'm ready to pull out of the garage. I start the car, and the EBrake light is on (when EBrake is not engaged). I raise the e-brake and it's MUCH better than before. Starts clicking right away.

So I'm going to go back out there and loosen the e-brake until I see the light go off.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

glad to hear its all getting sorted out.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Mission success.

Rear brakes are 100% operational. The adjustment bolt is in a great spot, no interior dismantling required. I loosened it a bit and everything is honky dory. Now I just gotta wait for my front rotors to arrive and I can do that. The fronts are a piece of cake.

Thanks for the help guys. I used the caliper tool and adjusted the bolt and it's all good. Maxima.org FTW.

MaxiNone

iTrader: (1)

i always use my e-brake, i guess its something i adapted from driving manual cars (my max is an auto ).

^^^that wont work, you have to use the "tool" or "key" for the rears. i didnt know about the key and used the "C" clamp on my dad's escape, and the rotors warpped within days...


as for the e-brake not working properly, you probably need to adjust the cable or maybe it work better after the calipers are replaced...

vqmaxman

There's this hook on top of the rear calipers that are spring compressed and theres that hook you slide the e-brake lines on,behind the brake lines there is a hex shaped nut that can be used to adjust the brakes lines. (IIRC).The rear calipers need this special tool that will set the calipers back in seconds.If you use the needle nose pin pliers your taking a chance to damage the slots.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Ilyak any tips on doing the front brakes? How did you bleed the brakes? Are there bleeders already in place or did you install speed bleeders? Im going to be replacing my girls 4 rotors and pads on her 93 Camry, so I need some advice. I also have to replace the front pads on my max. This is the first time I will be attempting a brake job but I hear Its fairly easy to do. Lastly did you have to add any brake fluid?

ivorton23

I dont use my ebrake at all now cause im scared they'll lock up again. maybe i need to change my calipers too.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

The calipers already have bleeders on them but it's going to require a second person. Someone has to pump the brakes three times and hold, then the other person needs to bleed. I'm always the person pumping, so I'm not sure exactly what my dad does but I'm sure if you google it you will find the needed information.

As far as changing the rotors and pads it's fairly simple.

Take off the tire
Take off the two bolts holding the caliper to the hub/knuckle assembly
Pop out old pads
Push brake cylinder in with C-Clamp or caliper tool
Put new pads in
Install on to rotor
Bolt everything up
Bleed brakes (make sure to top the fluid off BEFORE doing this and monitor it throughout the process)

Done.

Just try it. lol.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

[QUOTE=IlyaK;7491364]The calipers already have bleeders on them but it's going to require a second person. Someone has to pump the brakes three times and hold, then the other person needs to bleed. I'm always the person pumping, so I'm not sure exactly what my dad does but I'm sure if you google it you will find the needed information.

As far as changing the rotors and pads it's fairly simple.

Take off the tire
Take off the two bolts holding the caliper to the hub/knuckle assembly
Pop out old pads
Push brake cylinder in with C-Clamp or caliper tool
Put new pads in
Install on to rotor
Bolt everything up
Bleed brakes (make sure to top the fluid off BEFORE doing this and monitor it throughout the process)

Done.
So each caliper has a bleeder on it? The bleeder is located on the top of the caliper I assume. Is it just a bolt to loosen or like a vent on a radiator? Let's say for example I only change the front brakes pads, do I still need to bleed all four from the calipers? Any sequence to bleeding? Do I bleed it till some fluid comes and just refill the reservoir?

newjerz

I just did a front brake job last week with my father in law. Pretty easy but ran into some issues. So I bought rotors and pads. After taking off the wheels and inspecting the rotors, my pops tells me we don't need to change the rotors. I'm looking at them and thinking these need to be changed but nonetheless, I go with what pops says. We change the pads. Next day, the wife is driving the car and she is hearing a whining noise coming from the passenger side wheel. Instantly I think its wheel bearings. I jack up the car and see if the wheel gives and it doesn't, so I don't think its the bearings. Anyways, I take it to Strauus Auto and have them take a look. They agree its not the wheel bearings, mind you I can't replicate the sound whenever I'm driving the car, I'm just going off the noise my wife recorded on her phone. After talking to her, she then tells me that the sound instantly goes away when you press the brake. Two days later, I changed the rotors, and the sound is gone.

I'm planning on doing the rear brakes this weekend. From reading the other posts in this thread, it sounds like I can't use a C clamp to retract the caliper. Is this correct? I used a C clamp for the front with no problem.
Please let me know.

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

There is probably a build-up on the old rotors from the old pads, making the rotor warped, which is why the pads were making noise most likely. You shouldn't have a problem when you do new rotors and pads though.

And for the rear calipers, you need to twist the piston back in, either using needle nose pliers or a caliper tool from an auto shop.

newjerz

thanks alot. lovin your max by the way!

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Each caliper has a bleeder on the bottom. I'm not sure how they work because I've never watched it done. I've always been the one pumping the brakes. Never used speed bleeders either.

As for the sequence: rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver...basically start furthest from the brake fluid reservoir.

If you are JUST changing pads, you do NOT need to bleed the system as you are not opening the system up for air to get in. I do recommend you still check the level.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Just a FYI for those doing front/rear brakes.

Front calipers usually do not require any R/R even after 10+ years, the rubber seals on them are actually pretty good and do last quite a long time. I have *not* seen front calipers seizing of from all the various 1990s/2000s model Nissan cars that I worked on. Some share the same calipers. (maxima, altima, etc)

Here's the **** that usually craps out and seizes

1) Rear calipers - I've personally changed out about 20+ sets of these on various Nissans, it's almost always the ones that you need to turn the pistons. The rubber seals break, rust forms and voila instant seized/rusted piston. You can rebuild them yourself, but generally this requires replacing the piston/seals and cleaning the caliper out. It's better to get rebuilt replacements (Napa/Autozone etc) that come fully packed.
They have changed the design of these rear calipers after the 2002 year I believe. These new ones do not need to be turned and last much longer. I suspect the act of turning the pistons tears the rubber boots/seals allowing them to seize. You don't need a huge hole for moisture to seep in, even a pinhole would do.

2) Ebrake cables - these will seize up as well, I have seen a lot of cases where the cables are entirely rusted and need to be removed and new ones reinstalled. The same problem with these, the rubber jackets fail allowing moisture to rust the cables inside. This is particularly bad if you drive an automatic and use your ebrake when the car is parked and not driven for a long period of time.

3) Torque member bolts - These are the bolts that hold the caliper in place. Generally these should be packed with grease and slide in and out with the caliper as the brake pad wears away, more than often the bolts seize and creating a situation where you can't fit new pads in because the caliper has no clearance. The only way to get these out is by force, usually hammering, wrenching, or torching the suckers out. If all else fails it's time to go to the junkyard and get used ones. If you do manage to get the bolts out, substitute the grease with ample amounts of anti-seize and slide the bolts back in.