darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

Hey everyone, haven't posted in a while.

First off I want to start off that I have NO Check Engine Light on.

Today I was just driving home normally and coming to a stop at a stop light, pushed in my clutch took it out of gear for it to idle; all of a sudden my car stalled. I started my car up and drove it again, but at a light or when ever I push in my clutch for it idle it dies again. The car turns over perfectly fine.

When trying to accelerate, I sometimes have hesitation issues, like my clutch is slipping, but it's not.

I'm going to check my MAF sensor and IACV tomorrow, but if that is not the case what else can cause this to happen to my car?

Thanks guys.

garyhigh

Going through the same problem Bro except mine is an auto. I cleaned the IACV and problem still exists. My car only stalls after about 15 miles of driving when the operating temp is normal. It never stalls when cold. I may try replacing the coolant temp sensor next. Good luck.

Tyrguy4

I too have been experiencing these same symptoms. Yesterday and today i thoroughly cleaned my maf, tb, iavc, uim, lim and erg valve. This has eliminated all stalls, sputters, and hesitations. The EGR valve was 99% blocked with carbon deposits. No CEI's before or after... but it runs a hell of a lot better now.

dehsah

I would start by cleaning the throttle Body. The stuff they are peddling for gas will coke it up in no time.

Rocky Rococco

175K miles - EGR valve fully caked with carbon - plugged up. Much better now that its working. Might not be your problem, but its a point of reference.

cashoit

If the TB is dirty i would say there is also a good chance that the rest of the EGR, IACV, UIM AND LIM is dirty too.

But doin that cleaning outside in the middle of the winter sux

garyhigh

Did you clean the actual EGR valve or the EGR tube?

I changed my CTS and cleaned the MAF with CRC cleaner but my stalling still happens after about 30 minutes of driving.

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

I just blew my engine. So there was a problem some where else..... I think.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

part out? :xfingers:

cashoit

Dude...how did we go from cleaning the TB and IACV to a blown engine???

What happened?? Timing Chain break???

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

I think couple of piston rings just blew, I had black smoke coming out of my exhaust with loud knocking noises from the engine bay.

rdw72777

I would have said your symptoms were being diagnosed correctly with:

1. cleaning the TB, IACV, MAF and EGR tube
2. replacing Engine COolant temp sensor (ECTS)

Of course now who knows what was up. Sorry about your misfortune. Mine had same symptoms (an automatic tran but was stalling at lights/stop signs once engine was warm) and my ECTS fixed my problem.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

uh...? what? if rings blew you would have blue smoke pouring out.. u sure you are not having a misfire or a bad plug/ coil?

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

What would cause a car to hesitate and have a rough idle?

I was thinking a bad fuel air ratio or maybe something else.

Help please!

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

check your maf connection had a problem with mine stallin at lights and when i pushed in the clutch my connector to the maf was bad i hard wired it no problems since if not that check ects

cashoit

yup...voltage test and multimeter is your friend

rizzindriver89

I had the same. Mixed in was some crazy bucking and hesitating. This didn't go away after I cleaned everythng. Nope, instead, I had to get a new MAF and IAT. I did notice improvements when cleaning the TB and TBS

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

Hello again!!!

I again, after one year developed a hesitation problem at highway speeds (stalled once), but drives normal when I am off the highway..

No cel at the current moment.

Any suggestions.....

I have all new O2 sensors installed, replaced the iacv(last year), new fuel filter

TheRandish

I am having a similar problem with my 95 maxima.

I am at just over 220k miles. I bought this car a year ago with 207k and it has had no major problems.

I had the oil changed and drove the car around for a few hours running errands and on the highway while coasting to a roll behind some traffic the engine just died. I pulled onto the shoulder and started it up after a few pounds on my steering wheel, much to my surprise she started right up and I continued home. after pulling off the highway the car stalled out at a stop light and then again in the parking lot of the first auto part store I found.

anyways, she is idling funny to say the least and I get a hiccup or two sometimes while accelerating. I dont know if this has anything to do with getting my oil changed but the manager at the place I have it done had a few ideas:

1. Fuel filter needs replacement
2. O2 sensor needs replacement/adjustment
3. Idle sensor
and one of his lube techs said, "sounds like it might be electrical, and that sounds expensive"


Please Help! thanks guys

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

My car is hesitating really badly at highway speeds and of course during normal driving.

My car wants to just die, but I wont let it.

Any idea.
No codes, no nothing except for hesitation.

Please help

DBear

Sounds like MAF. No codes, or no CEL? If you haven't actually pulled the codes, you should do that, even if there is no CEL.

MAXiPAD72O

iTrader: (1)

maf would def throw a code because i had a stall issue a cpl years ago and thats what it was...gl though

pizzle18

Hi, to all I'm new so if i mess up forgive me. I have a 95 that has some of these symptoms and I'm baffled. On crank it stumbles the idle hand drops dies sometimes other times fights up and down then straightens up. This is in park. I then smell strong gas odors from the vents. As the car warms up driving sitting at a light in drive the idle hand will move up and down in burst and the car stumbles or misses or hesitates. I've replaced maf, coolant temp, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, tps, right up stream oxygen sensor. Hand cleaned iac, but not the tube. Replaced the left bank i think #2 coil pack, then #4. A friend had a big hand held tool and as i drove he said it seemed like they were weak, due to the car running lean or rich don't remember, which one. Also replace egr, and knock due to lights. As of now no lights or codes. I have to sometimes push the gas to the floor when leaving a stop sign or light due to seems lack of power, then it feels as if it kicks in then gets up and goes. Bad gas mileage too. I'm dieing here. I'm uploading a couple of video's to youtube to show and will give the links when done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfTf1HFhRvk

Thanks,

Jp

unstetois

my car most the similar problems that you guys are experiencing, but i had a knock sensor code. i just bought a new one off ebay and when testing it with an ohmeter, I was not getting continuity as the manuel suggests. i replaced it anyway and i'm still having the same problems(stall all the time and still engine check lights on). what am i missing here. can i get the P325 code w/o it being the problem?

cashoit

Sounds like a MAF issue. Clean MAF and TB. Ebay MAFs are a hit or miss man. Autozone MAFs are more reliable. Throw some chevron techron in the tank.

cashoit

KS wont cause stallin or hesitation. It either MAF, dirty TB, igniton coils, plugs, injectors or vacuum leak. Other possiblities are a bad CPS, CKPS or TPS, although its more unlikely that these would be the problem.

Its usually a bad MAF or dirty TB. U gotta start troubleshooting. Get the Factory service manual from Fallenone's sig.

westphaltech

i also have a 95 maxima that drops rpms at stop lights and will occasionally die. replaced iac and grounded the mas as well as cleaned the throttle body and the tps. i work at a shop and its embarrasing that i finally got stumped. when i hook it up to my verus computer and check all data every sensor is contributing correct specs according to mitchel1 im not sure what else i can do. can anyone help?