bogging when at open throttle
bogging when at open throttle
something weird started happening today. Since sunday my rear section was off because it fell of but the car was running great ever since. I drove to L.A yesterday and the car was strong, alot of power up the grapevine and climbing hills, everything was normal.
Today, i was driving then out of nowhere i feel my car bog like power is cutting out. Feels like the motor wants to push but it cant. I drive normal with my foot really sensitive on the gas and the car runs fine, power and everything but if i open the throttle and try to accelerate faster than the car bogs and you can hear power slipping...
I put the rear section on cause i thought it might be due to how much air was being let out or something in particular but i put it back on and it was still bogging when i was pushing it, rather than driving it normal.
To me it feels like a dead cylinder or maybe the coil packs or something, i dont know but please help me out. It is getting really frustrating..


Today, i was driving then out of nowhere i feel my car bog like power is cutting out. Feels like the motor wants to push but it cant. I drive normal with my foot really sensitive on the gas and the car runs fine, power and everything but if i open the throttle and try to accelerate faster than the car bogs and you can hear power slipping...
I put the rear section on cause i thought it might be due to how much air was being let out or something in particular but i put it back on and it was still bogging when i was pushing it, rather than driving it normal.
To me it feels like a dead cylinder or maybe the coil packs or something, i dont know but please help me out. It is getting really frustrating..



thats what i was thinking...i read the thread and it has alot of the same signs of defective coil packs... SES light blinks when trying to throttle quickly and it only hesitates and bogs when throttle is open to fast. Im going to run the codes to see what shows up... Fuel Pump is new and vacuums pressure is steady..
radiator side
1 3 5
2 4 6
Radiator side
Misfire cylinder 3 huh. Remove the coil wit the engine on. If the engine still performs the same then the coil is crapped out. Also check cylinder 3 spark plug for fouling and/or oil leaking into that cylinder. U may have to replace LIM gasket.
1 3 5
2 4 6
Radiator side
Misfire cylinder 3 huh. Remove the coil wit the engine on. If the engine still performs the same then the coil is crapped out. Also check cylinder 3 spark plug for fouling and/or oil leaking into that cylinder. U may have to replace LIM gasket.
There I Fixed It For You.Why would he need to replace his LIM gasket? Also it could just be a fouled Plug.. He needs to do some digging before we jump to conclusions. If theres anything ive learned from working in a shop, its that throwing parts at cars doesnt solve problems. Search the stickys for the How To on testing or 'ohming out' coils.
There I Fixed It For You.Why would he need to replace his LIM gasket? Also it could just be a fouled Plug.. He needs to do some digging before we jump to conclusions. If theres anything ive learned from working in a shop, its that throwing parts at cars doesnt solve problems. Search the stickys for the How To on testing or 'ohming out' coils.
Yeah, the problem with the site is that none of us can actually see or feel whats goin on with the car. Makes troubleshooting a nightmare. but we all try our best lol
i have never taken off the UIM, but doesnt the coils reach all the way into the LIM. And the LIM is the rear valve cover , So he would have to replace the LIM gasket. no?
There is nowhere near enough data here to make an accurate diagnostic, and that goes for most of the posts above.
Well, you did one thing right. You pulled the codes. You now know cylinder 3 is misfiring. Have you swapped the coil to see if the misfire moves? Have you checked your fuel pressure? I have never seen an A32 mass air meter die unless its been abused, so I would probably rule that out.
Swap the coil, see if the misfire moves. If it does not, swap the plug. If the misfire still does not move, come back to us with the fuel pressure and a compression test. If your feeling saucy, grab a noid light and test the injector on cylinder 3.
Good luck.
Well, you did one thing right. You pulled the codes. You now know cylinder 3 is misfiring. Have you swapped the coil to see if the misfire moves? Have you checked your fuel pressure? I have never seen an A32 mass air meter die unless its been abused, so I would probably rule that out.
Swap the coil, see if the misfire moves. If it does not, swap the plug. If the misfire still does not move, come back to us with the fuel pressure and a compression test. If your feeling saucy, grab a noid light and test the injector on cylinder 3.
Good luck.
Yeah, the problem with the site is that none of us can actually see or feel whats goin on with the car. Makes troubleshooting a nightmare. but we all try our best lol
i have never taken off the UIM, but doesnt the coils reach all the way into the LIM. And the LIM is the rear valve cover , So he would have to replace the LIM gasket. no?
i have never taken off the UIM, but doesnt the coils reach all the way into the LIM. And the LIM is the rear valve cover , So he would have to replace the LIM gasket. no?
Now if you were referring to an oil leak into the cylinder he would be burning oil; and that would be a Head Gasket leak. In which case it would most likely be coolant not oil.
A Misfire is definitely going to be Plug/Coil > Wiring > ECM.
Thanks Guys.. I'm just going to change all my spark plugs and coils as well.. I'm going to jut pull the manifold out as well and switch gaskets and clean everything up also, minus well do everything when you can right?? I'm pretty sure it's the coil because I'm not burning oil... The SES light hasn't came back on eversince I reset it, even though it's off it still bogs, obviously, but driving without the light on just makes me feel a whole lot better!!
The oem platinum ones are 10 dolla a piece because the electrode and the tip is platinum and it's laser welded. I wonder if the people who buy copper plugs insist on using premium fuel.
Don't take this the wrong way 'cuz I got oem platinum plugs in the engine and coppers sitting here waiting to be installed but that's a whole other story; sc. There's nothing wrong with coppers just change 'em out on time.
Don't take this the wrong way 'cuz I got oem platinum plugs in the engine and coppers sitting here waiting to be installed but that's a whole other story; sc. There's nothing wrong with coppers just change 'em out on time.
The oem platinum ones are 10 dolla a piece because the electrode and the tip is platinum and it's laser welded. I wonder if the people who buy copper plugs insist on using premium fuel.
Don't take this the wrong way 'cuz I got oem platinum plugs in the engine and coppers sitting here waiting to be installed but that's a whole other story; sc. There's nothing wrong with coppers just change 'em out on time.
Don't take this the wrong way 'cuz I got oem platinum plugs in the engine and coppers sitting here waiting to be installed but that's a whole other story; sc. There's nothing wrong with coppers just change 'em out on time.Copper conducts electricity better than platinum, but can't go wrong with factory heat ranged plugs whether copper or platinum (ofc NGK that is)
okay, so this morning i changed all my spark plugs but as i was pulling out the coil from cylinder 3 ( by the firewall ), the rubber part from the coil came off and now its preventing me from getting to the spark plug....do you guys have any suggestions on how to pull the rubber out without it on the coil?? i seriously tried everything!! and that is the only one that i didnt get to Change!! every other coil has that rubber on it at the ends but the CYLINDER 3, ( WHICH WAS THE ONE THAT WAS MISFIRING ), has no rubber end out it and i cant seem to get it out
okay, so this morning i changed all my spark plugs but as i was pulling out the coil from cylinder 3 ( by the firewall ), the rubber part from the coil came off and now its preventing me from getting to the spark plug....do you guys have any suggestions on how to pull the rubber out without it on the coil?? i seriously tried everything!! and that is the only one that i didnt get to Change!! every other coil has that rubber on it at the ends but the CYLINDER 3, ( WHICH WAS THE ONE THAT WAS MISFIRING ), has no rubber end out it and i cant seem to get it out
the rubber part that grips over the head of the spark plug? take the valve cover off for maximum room and use needle nose pliers
changed all of the spark plugs and car is running amazing!! IM SO HAPPY, NO MORE BOGGING!!! THANK GOD AND THANK YOU GUYS!! I WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO DO IT WITHOUT YOU GUYS!!!
Ahhh! another win for the org lol
So what did u do? replace the coil and plugs right? Prolly was a bad coil especially if it broke so easily when try to replace plugs.
i have the same problem i had the cylinder 3 misfire code come up but then it went away, my car bogs when i try to open up and the RPMS just go right down as well. i went to a local pep boys and they said it was a Mass air flow sensor but that seems to b unlikely because there are no lights on, i have an 02 but i think this would work do u have any suggestions?, thanks
i have the same problem i had the cylinder 3 misfire code come up but then it went away, my car bogs when i try to open up and the RPMS just go right down as well. i went to a local pep boys and they said it was a Mass air flow sensor but that seems to b unlikely because there are no lights on, i have an 02 but i think this would work do u have any suggestions?, thanks
MAF issues wont throw misfire signals. But spray some MAF cleaner on the MAF see if that helps. Inspect cyclinder 3 coilpack and spark plug. COilpack is prolly rotted or fired. Spark plug may be fouled. If u find oil in the cylinder u may have to replace rear valve cover gasket spark plug grommets.
i have the same problem i had the cylinder 3 misfire code come up but then it went away, my car bogs when i try to open up and the RPMS just go right down as well. i went to a local pep boys and they said it was a Mass air flow sensor but that seems to b unlikely because there are no lights on, i have an 02 but i think this would work do u have any suggestions?, thanks
bro, honestly, best thing to do is just change your coil and spark plugs because either one will setting off the misfire.. i changed both and everything ended up being fine...
Your scenario is different though, mine would bog when at opening but RPM'S never dropped. Im thinking you should change both, try and figure out when the last time you changed the spark plugs and coilpacks were.. some suggest we should do it with our suggested tune ups.. 30000-60000-75000- and so on or whatever, i talked to a master tech at nissan and he said that maxima have a bad habbit with coil packs...
I switched both sets of coil packs and spark plugs and my cars running fine now.. IF YOU RAN THE CODES AND ITS A CYLINDER MISFIRE, YOU KNOW IT'LL BE SOMETHING SIMILAR TO MY ISSUE. I HOPE THIS HELPS..
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HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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Sep 29, 2015 02:02 PM




