Umm, well the story started out with me Changing the valve cover gaskets hoping to stop the oil leaks. And it did.

But when i put everything back together, i had one main issue, The collant hoses running underneath the Throttle Body.

I noticed that when i hooked those hoses back together, and started the car, I drove to my work area and noticed smoke coming out, and looked under the hood and there was coolant all over the transmission case, and everything else. (thus it was a loose coolant hose) so i tightened the hose ( or i think i did ), and it was still leaking. so i decided to do this. and i guess it was wrong in everyway, and i accept my idiotic attempt to, instead of running the coolant hoses through the throttle which they were suppose to be, instead, i take the hoses and run them together, bypassing the throttle. And i decided to crank her up. So she started, and then maybe 3 minutes after the startup, it started spitting really bad, and RPM's was dropping down to 300 RPM and it felt as if it were running on literally 2 cylinders. and after the bogging down, and RPM drop, the car cut off and didn't start again. So i take my scanner and scanned the car. And the scanner came with a P0300 code, Random Multiple Misfire. So with that in mind and the car not starting, i don't know what else to do now. So i went back under the hood, and hooked the coolant hoses back to the TB and was hoping everything worked again, but nope. Nothing works. It won't start but it will turn over. So that was all that happened yesterday, but as far as today, I am stumbled over whats going on. And maybe your right Phmor, i might need a new ECU. Because, i took the spark plugs out, and they were filled with gas, but i looked inside the cylinder and noticed that theres alot of debris and the piston head was wet. I also removed the TB once more to look inside, and noticed it was wet in there as well. and i thought to myself maybe the coolant looked in the TB and into the UIM somehow? but i could be wrong. But i also noticed it was Burning White exhaust before the car shut off.

So i woke up this morning to try to scan the car again, and thats where those 3 weird codes came from when i scanned it. It was Odd enough the way the code was on the scanner. And the check engine light would be on but no code was be present, but when i scan for the freeze frame data, it will show like a p0300 code or a p0400 code (<-- not clear on what 400 code it was)

So what do you think it would be, after everything said?

(EDIT) (1-20-10) - (1-25-10) I tried letting the sparks plugs dry and let the inside cylinders air dry for a week. and hoping it will start but nothing..

Anyone got any suggestions that may help me please?



(ps) do you think it may have something to do with the collant line that was running to the throttle body?

 

Could you have connected a coolant hose to a vacuum hose barb on the TB? It seems like you had coolant flowing into the intake manifold.

 

Yooooo...wtf were u doin man.

Im thinking w/o coolant goin thru the TB, the incoming air was so hot the engine was detonating early causing the misfires.

But def sounds like u had gotten coolant into the cylinders. Your best bet wd be to open her up and clean all the coolant outta the UIM, intake valves, cylinders , everything. Regrease. Then pray.

Sorry bro

 

I only hooked up the coolant hose to those hose fittings on the throttle body. No where else.

 

there are 3 ports on the TB. I THINK the two on the opposite sides of the TB are the coolant hose. The hose in the middle is vacuum. WHich did u hook up??

 

I think the purpose of running coolant through the jacket in the TB is to keep the throttle plate from icing up in cold weather. Once the engine warms up the coolant is hotter than the incoming air, so it heats the air, it doesn't cool it.

 

hmmm good call lol. need to check the flow of coolant to see if its adding or removing heat from the TB. Still dont explain what happened to the OP engine tho. THat sux

 

now im afraid of doing my rear valve cover.

 

Jus dont remove the TB from the engine bay.... or make sure u mark off which hoses go where.


I remember when i tried to remove my TB and the coolant hoses would even come off, so i jus left it hanging there and was careful

 

I really don't think you sent coolant through your intake because you said it ran for around 3 minutes before it died, and also you had the coolant hoses bypassing the throttle body at this time. Heres what you need to do:

Go to a parts store, buy some cheap NGK V-power plugs for $2.00 each. Verify that you have spark. You can either check 1 coil at a time, or pull them all out at the same time, stick new plugs in the end and have a friend crank it over. (Please make sure you unplug the fuel injectors when you do this or you will have a misty mess) If you have good spark, then its time to check for fuel pressure.

I was once told by a GM Master Technician that 90% of drivability concerns are fuel related. He also said that I could call him and ask him questions anytime, but If I did not have the fuel pressure specs from the vehicle in question, he would hang up on me immedietly.

3 things make an engine run, no? Fuel, spark, and air. You obviously have air, you obviously have SOME fuel since your **** looks wet inside, but do you have spark? If you have a fuel system restriction or any kind of situation resulting in a lower fuel pressure than designed, the spray patterns for the injectors are seriously hurt. Picture a garden hose 1/4 of the way open, water just kinda shooting close together, but when you hold it about 80% open, you get a nice mist.


So, come back with some better information, and we'll tell you what to do next.

 

Ok... Final stage reached. You guys were right. and Thanks to blackwind as well, I had coolant flowing through a "vacuum" line.. and Now since of my mistake, I am now proud to announce that i have coolant/water in the Charcoal canister, fuel tank, evap system, and everything else. I am draining everything out ATM. Pictures to come soon.


Canister purge valve was also soaked..

 

uh, doesnt that mean your hydro-locked and now have an excuse to do a 3.5 swap...
at least thats what i read about coolant in the engine. its the reason i bypassed my TB for my 00vi swap.

at least you got it solved and hopefully it turns out for the best, your maxima has been through hell and back lately.

Just re-read it, coolant in the gas, that would make me angrier than my original mistake.

 

i am your king!!! BOW TO ME!!!!

 

keep us informed bro.

 

As long as his motor is cranking, it's not hydrolocked.
After your done cleaning out most of the coolant from the intake and vacuum lines (compressed air is your friend) put new plugs in it and start the engine. It's probably going to be tough to start, try holding the throttle WFO while you crank. When it does finally catch and run, it's going to be rough, keep it running by keeping the throttle open but don't over rev it. Your going to get a nice smoke show as the coolant burns off. Once the engine runs OK, go for a short ride until your exhaust is clean.
Change the oil after all is said and done.

One benifit of all this is that the top end of your engine is gonig to be nice and clean as the steam from the coolant burning off is going to wash away most of the carbon that has built up. No need for Seafoam!!

 

^ so by flushing his intake with coolant...he saved money?

Genius,
why are all the good ideas taken by others..

haha,

 

i did this years ago. it ups the milage greatly

 

await pictures.

 

Car is up and running again.... There is a nasty leak i caught before i drained the Charcoal canister. Sending pictures tonight.

but the car is running now. Smoothly.. But the one main problem is When you shut the car off, it won't start until you give it throttle.. but other than that, it runs great. maybe that will go away after a few days.

 

it should. if not then you may have another problem. did you take apart the EVAP control piece ALL THE WAY? you should get some build up in there in a few days.