My brakes are making various types of squeaking/squealing..
If i push hard enough, there's sometimes a slight feeling in the pedals like i'm driving over tiny pebbles on the road. any reason for this?
I checked the front pads/rotors and they seem fine. I'm planning to check the rears as well. My question is, how do i know when the rotors has been resurfaced too many times so it's under specification? what is this specification?
I might just get new rotors and pads too.
thanks for help guys
If i push hard enough, there's sometimes a slight feeling in the pedals like i'm driving over tiny pebbles on the road. any reason for this?
I checked the front pads/rotors and they seem fine. I'm planning to check the rears as well. My question is, how do i know when the rotors has been resurfaced too many times so it's under specification? what is this specification?
I might just get new rotors and pads too.
thanks for help guys
Senior Member
Quote:
I agree, it sounds like your rotors are probably a little warped and your pads might be running a little low. Tirerack.com has some good options as far as brakes and brake pads. Originally Posted by Snypa
If you havet done brake work in a wile. I would just do it ad be over with all these sounds, problems=assumptions.
i dont meant to threadjack but i was going to start my own thread and some of this info might help you.
my rear rotors get pretty warped when they warm up. I have hawk HPS pads back there with like 5k on them. I know i should of had my rotors turned when i did the change but i have never had a set or rears even close to warp. Do you think i can get the rears turned and continue using the old pads? i know it's kind of a no no but i dont want to waste an almost new set of pads if i don't have to.
Senior Member
Quote:
well, in general, how do you check to see if the rotors are indeed bad? can you see/feel it?
there is a minimum thickness, but what you need to worry about is the runout which is the difference between the thickest point and thickest point on the rotor. All of these specs are in the FSM which i don't have with me right now.Originally Posted by kv2
alright thanks.well, in general, how do you check to see if the rotors are indeed bad? can you see/feel it?
once your rotors get hot the difference from thickest point to thinest point gets more exaggerated which probably the driving over pebbles feeling you are describing
by they way Hawk HPS pads with Brembo blanks are a very popular combo around here and is what i would suggest
Senior Member
Quote:
I give this idea a thumbs down. There are some good rotor sets on ebay but just about everything that is slotted or drilled on ebay has been proven on the org to be crap. If you do go through ebay get a name brand rotor Originally Posted by blocster
Get rotors from E-bay.
My personal suggestion is Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads
Member
front rotor minimum .787"
rear rotor minimum .315
If they are warped or near min. thickness , just get new rotors at local parts store
I've changed the front rotors maybe three times and back rotors once in 332,000 miles.
rear rotor minimum .315
If they are warped or near min. thickness , just get new rotors at local parts store
I've changed the front rotors maybe three times and back rotors once in 332,000 miles.