I have a 95 Maxima SE that I have owned since new and well maintained with 155K, two months ago had a low idle miss wouldn't stall but almost, check engine light finally went on after about 2 weeks and went the the Nissan dealership that just sold out to the Chevy dealer across the street, so don't know about the tech's told me the #3 injector is bad and #2 is failing replaced both ($900) ran great for a week and same problem crappy running in low and mid idle and engine light back on, went back to dealer and they replaced the #3 injector again.

Ran great for 2 1/2 months then basically same running problems but emitted white smoke from tail pipe and could smell gas like dumping too much fuel, I replaced the plugs, pcv and fuel filter with no luck and took it to a indy shop that specialize in nissan, toyota and bmw etc. a place I used before on my Toyota, they replaced the #3 injection again said it was leaking or dribbling fuel (too much) it runs better but is still kinda rough at idle and low rpm and in gear (automatic) it will increase off and on idle not much about 2000, the car is NOT right not a smooth idle low rpm and lost power but does run great at speed over 35 mph,

Any thoughts why this is? It's hard to believe that 2 new injectors are both bad or going bad what else could cause this? could something else cause the #3 to go bad? After spending over $1500 on this problem I'm at a loss, thought about taking it to another dealer a hour away? thoughts, suggestion? Thanks
maybe a coil or knock sensor problem?

 

I wish I had the answer to your problem but I also wanted to know why this happens. I also had a problem with my max idling rough. Diagnosed myself that it was cylinder 3 by unpluging coils while running. Placed coil in cylinder 5 and it worked so I bought an OEM injector which was $120 by the way. Problem went away and came back in a little over a week. Took it to a small shop and he replaced the new injector I had with a original one he had stored up and car was back to normal after that. Don't know how to explain it but I need to hear if someone replaced all their injectors with OEM or aftermarket and never had problems.

 

You're not giving much info here -- are YOU checking codes, or just letting mechanics guess with your wallet? Why has everyone focused on the injectors when there are lots of other things that could more likely be the problem? Check throttle adjustment and clean TB and MAF, if these haven't been done. Plugs may have been a pretty good guess, but not all of them if the problem goes away after 35mph. What do you mean "it will increase off and on idle not much about 2000" ? The idle fluctuates 2000 rpm?? You shouldn't see 2000 at all 'til you're around 60-70 mph - idle shouldn't get over 12-1300 at dead cold - below 0-F. You need to clarify things a bit.

 

I bet those dealers didn't bother to check the coil packs 1 or 2 of them most likely burn out during the life of the car.

 

I don't have a code checker the Nissan place wrote scanned and detected misfire PO303 and PO300 #3 cylinder misfire and multi misfire found #3 injector shorted internally replaced and test showed #2 injector weak and shorting replaced #2.

It will idle around 750 and jump to 950 rpm and back to 750 it will get worse (rough idle) when the air conditioner is on, don't know what a TB or MAF are?

Runs very rough and with power loss till up get up around 35 then it smooths out and the power picks up.

Nissan dealer charged me $82.99 for the injector the indy shop $130, the indy shop labor was half what the Dealer charged.

When I got at the Nissan dealer it ran and idled great no problems till a week same thing check engine light rough idle no power, they replaced the #3 injector again, ran and idle was perfect, that was mid November and ran great till mid February and indy replaced #3 injector again, but it was rough idle when I first got it back from the indy.

 

Good to see they're giving you real info - not guessing. I haven't had issues with injectors, but searched "failing injector" and found this especially good. pmohr 's opinions count alot. There are other threads under that same search, if you want to read more. Good Luck -

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...questions.html

 

check #3 coil and CPS

 

Ok whats a CPS and MAF?

 

i had a similiar problem with my #3 cylinder i had oil leaking onto the coil and spark plugs beacuse my rear valve cover was leaking.
i had bad idle, and low power under acceleration and it would even set my brake and battery light on as if my alternator was dying but it was just unsteady power surges from the motor misfiring.
Cylinder #3 seems to be common to get this problem.

replaced all spark plug tube seals on the valve cover along with spark plugs and problem gone.

 

Hey X2 - Here's a link to the Stickie that gives abbreviations - go to Thread #7.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
And did you read the threads I sent before ??

 

Thanks for the link found the MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor didn't list a CPS?
CPS is a crank position sensor.

I looked them after I sorted through just those pertain to 4th generation but nothing really jumped at me, I'll have to read them better when time allows.

Ok now the see the link about couple of questions hmm got some things to check especially coils, idle speed control and MAF

 

Hi, I am new to the forum. I have a 96 maxima and I am almost positive the problem I am having is an ignition coil. Is there a way I can test them to see which one it is?

 

Do a search, wish a had a link for you, but looked at so much stuff can't remember where it at to test coils.

 

Would a bad or going bad coil cause a injector to go bad? something is causing the #3 injector to go bad can't believe that I've gotten two bad injectors?

Looks like my best option is to replace the back coil bank and I'm going to replace the sparks plugs again with NKG and throw the autolights out and see if this helps.

Seems that at this point all the dealer or indy shop will do is start replacing parts might as well replace the parts myself and save the labor costs,

Good move yes or no? next question where to buy the coils?

 

A coil would not cause an injector to fail. If you are going to replace the injector, I would recommend getting a used working one opposed to a new one unless oyu are going to change the whole rail. My second post showed what happened when I bought a new OEM coil. Just my 2 cents...

 

having this same exact problem ... car is stalling when i gear in park sumtimes ... if i get it running and stop at a read light stalls .... sluggish but at times it doesn't do it ... threw a gear 1 and 2 error. Replaced the knock sensor before when the problem first started (the code was also thrown). I still dnt know what the problem is my guess could be a number of problems, my mechanic couldn't figure it out

 

i have been through 2 auto trannys and they both started to die the exact way your describing. i had to warm the car up for like 15 minutes in order for it not to stall.