4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #1  
rick sambora's Avatar
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from 6th to 4th gen!

Hi All,
Had a 6th gen maxima but traded that in for an Acura type-s. Wife started work so I am giving her my Type-S and getting a 5sp 95 maxima. It has 110k mileage on it and the clutch seems to be okay. Motor seems to be running good. Nothing really shouts out as abnormal.
I was searching the 4rth gen forum and came across some maintenance tips for new owners of 4rth gens. For the sake of being complete I was hoping knowledgeable members would list all the maintenance jobs that I should be looking into. These are what I have so far
1. Replace coolant, PS fluid, engine oil, trans fluid, seafoam/fuel injector cleaner, new air filter and cabin filter(if the 4rth gen has it), replace wiper blades, get car detailed.(will appreciate any DIY links of the above jobs)
2. I saw people throwing out abbreviations like IAVC, EGR etc. are these DIY or need a mechanic? Also what other service is needed apart from what I listed above.
LASTLY FOR PEOPLE IN THE CHICAGO AREA, IS THERE A RELIABLE SHOP THAT YOU GUYS USE FOR YOUR MAX FOR MODS??Will really appreciate this specific info.
Thank you.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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If you are replacing your coolant, PS fluid, and trans fluid, the above abbreviations are definitely DIY.

Mainly clean your IACV (Idle air control valve) and TB (throttle body). They tend to get gunked up. In addition to the above list, maybe adjust the slack on your throttle cables, clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), and replace the fuel filter with a 300zx fuel filter.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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mahanddeem's Avatar
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welcome to the 4th gen fancy world ...lol

there are tons and tons of infos in the stickies waiting for the searchers
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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SiathLinux's Avatar
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From: Altamonte Springs, FL
Welcome to 4th Gen Goodness!

I was lucky on my Max - dealership changed all fluids and filters - they even let me see the oil and tranny oil (both actually looked really good - previous owner seemed to have taken care of it - but didn't keep records for crap...)

Good luck with yours - post up some PHOTOS
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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DAVE Sz's Avatar
Hooooooonda.....
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From: Chiiiii
Originally Posted by rick sambora
Hi All,

LASTLY FOR PEOPLE IN THE CHICAGO AREA, IS THERE A RELIABLE SHOP THAT YOU GUYS USE FOR YOUR MAX FOR MODS??Will really appreciate this specific info.
Thank you.
I don't believe so. Everyone does it themselves or there are a few members that do it for others.
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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From: San Antonio, TeXas
dont forget to check your motor mounts. they probably would need replacing if they are the originals. this will keep your axles from breaking every month if you plan on lowering the car(or even if your not) poly replacements would deffenetly make a BIG differance...
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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max ride 41's Avatar
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From: in my max, pa. :p
i can tell ya as a 95 owner with 201,000 miles that you want to check your engine and rad and tranny seals for leaks. most common are the valve covers, that little o ring on the cam sensor, check all the clamps on the hoses and make sure they're tight, rear main seal, brakes, lca's, mounts, tranny mount as well, sway bar links, exhaust for leaks, clean out and replace air filter with k&n, battery, optima yellow top, nitrogen in your tires, 89 or higher octane, uim cleanout. phew!!! i think thats it for now...
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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bet you miss your VIAS. lawl.

seriously though, my advice:
1. get a bottle of motor flush (same makers of SeaFoam IIRC), and follow the instructions. It's like putting your motor through the dishwasher (NOT recommended, lol). Stuff is amazing though.
2. Seafoam. You have a choice of 3 places to put it: Oil, Gas, Intake. Since you're doing the motor flush (aka Oil), go with gas and intake. Use 1/2 bottle for each, and I recommend using an EMPTY (absolutely empty - can't stress that enough) water bottle, one of the "squishy" ones. If you try to eyeball how much seafoam is going into your intake, you will fail horribly. Find the fat hose on your brake booster (any vacuum line will work, but i find the brake booster the easiest to work with). Let the hose suck the Seafoam out of your water bottle. Pour the rest in your gas tank (75-100% full is my opinion).

then go with the other guys' stuff too. I have a 300ZX fuel filter, LOVE it. Probably need to replace the old one anyway, and they're pretty cheap, definitely DIY. With the car running, pull the "Fuel Pump" fuse under the dash. After it dies (normal), try to start your car 3 times. then get some needlenose vicegrips (or any other method) to clamp the fuel lines on the fuel filter. loosen the clamps, slide the old filter off (don't rip the fuel lines), slide the new one on. tighten the clamps. done.

Good luck, and welcome to vq30 land.

Last edited by tyler5619; Mar 23, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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First step.

DEK swap
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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^^ meh, too disappointing coming from a 3.5 IMO. unless he first drives the DE awhile... enough to appreciate the difference with the -K
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by tyler5619
^^ meh, too disappointing coming from a 3.5 IMO. unless he first drives the DE awhile... enough to appreciate the difference with the -K
Not my DEK
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:08 PM
  #12  
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+1 tyler5619's mention of the fuel filter. a little tip----buy 2 feet of fuel line and 4 new clamps. It is 50times easier to cut the old hardened fuel lines after the nozzle by the firewall and on the top of the fuel rail. Simply use a sharp razor blade rather than tugging on a 15 year old rubber on metal connection. Makes it a 10minute job vs. 30-40...

Oh and at the parts store, hand them the new fuel filter and they can match up the hose. Good luck
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by max96imaaaa
+1 tyler5619's mention of the fuel filter. a little tip----buy 2 feet of fuel line and 4 new clamps. It is 50times easier to cut the old hardened fuel lines after the nozzle by the firewall and on the top of the fuel rail. Simply use a sharp razor blade rather than tugging on a 15 year old rubber on metal connection. Makes it a 10minute job vs. 30-40...

Oh and at the parts store, hand them the new fuel filter and they can match up the hose. Good luck
YMMV, but i had no problem swapping them out. the lines needed some "persuasion", but it didn't take me anywhere near 30 minutes. i was a first timer, too! the Z filter even used the same clamp lawl.

EDIT: also, no matter how much gas you get out of the lines by "trying" to start the car, you WILL leak some. lay down some cardboard, towels, anything you can to keep the gas from rolling down the driveway and killing your grass. (or the fish hah)
Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:51 PM
  #14  
ColombianMax's Avatar
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From: Chicago
Kalamazoo... hmm might wanna check the rust on the radiator core support where the crossmember bolts up in the middle.

There's a few of us here in Chicago that are pretty handy with out Maximas. The only thing I don't do myself is welding and alignments but everything else I've done myself. If you're asking about Chicago, you should check out Chicagonissaclub.net
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 03:03 PM
  #15  
wpm3blackmax's Avatar
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Welcome to the 4th gen fam!
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #16  
MaximaSpd85's Avatar
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as far as mods go, i believe Kzooshoo's avatar has him from kalamazoo as well, hed be a good start along with the others who have already posted here.
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