scmaxima

I have a faulty water pump and thermostat, ive been reading on the how to's and i saw that the thermostat is pretty simple, the water pump seems easy too, but i hear people saying it takes like 5 hours to do ?

so my question is can anyone thats done it before or has experience with it tell me really how difficult is it for a guy that really doesnt have the tools to do it?

any advice before i start with this project?

eFLO

iTrader: (2)

by no means is the water pump EASY...a lot of stuff has to be moved out of the way to access it. you must also be very cautious as to not drop anything into the TC...i'll be attempting this over the summer lol good luck to you!

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

My advice to you would be to tackle it if you are strapped for cash. It is tedious work and will take that time to change. If you don't have the timing chain rattle on your car now, chances are it will get one once you change the pump since you have listed a 96 with the old style tensioner. You would also have to change your tensioner and chain guide to the new design if you don't want to keep hearing the rattle.

Or if you have more time on your hands and strapped for cash again, there is an o-ring inside the old style tensioner if you want the noise to go away. Problem is finding the right size o-ring. I haven't tried this method yet but searched the org with a few members with success of this method. Hope this helps.

scmaxima

hmm sounds tempting. so changing the tensionar would be a must??

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

well, quite honestly i wish i was in NY i would love to attempt this as well..

For one, make sure you have a FSM on hand as well as a Haynes if you feel confused or uncomfortable with the FSM. Like i always mention ive got the links to a 95-98 and a 99 in my sig.

when your doing this i would make sure you have a good magnet handy just to be sure you can get bolts out if they were to make their way to the TC cover.

Also make sure you have enough work space.. getting down to the level of the opening is difficult if i were to attempt this i would most likely remove the fender and the headlight assembly to be sure you have enough area to work..

Ive never attempted this before so these are just my ideas and suggestions..

finally i would make sure to replace the timing tensioner.. mine clicks like its a broken bike chain... i have to warm my car up every day before i drive just to be safe..

Nozama

iTrader: (1)

Removing the fender would add nothing to the access and just take more time. The P/S reservoir and the front motor mount are the obstacles. it's not a hard job if you have a moderate level of mechanical skill, just frustrating and tedious.

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

i did it when i was just learning

drain your coolant

then remove

1 motor mount
2 power steering tank
3 and i also removed the accessory belt that drivers the alternator, AC
4 remove the belt tensioner
5 remove the covers for the water pump and the tensioner.
6 squeeze the tensioner, put a skinny pin in the tensioner hole.
7 remove the 2 bolts holding the tensioner
8 unscrew the bolt underneath the water pump to remove the the colant form the water pump
9 using ur new screw that you bought, remove the water pump. one side at a time.

edit, i did this all by myself, execpt my sister helped my put a pin in the tensior (she got smaller hands) and the whole job took me around 6 hours, but i didnt rush it

MoMurderah

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently in the midst of doing this and it sure is a PITA. It was all going fine til a screw fell into the timing chain case. Now I gotta remove the cover to find it

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

thats the worst thing that can happen

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Once you get that screw out, you better seal it back properly because once it starts leaking, its not going to be pretty.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

many people have reported dropping a screw into the timing cover, and retrieving it using a magnetic pickup tool. If you can avoid taking the timing cover off, I would.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Yes I did this a few weeks ago. I followed the write up on vqpower from the stickies in the water pump changing how to. Make sure you have a telescoping magnet. There is not alot of space to work with but it is doable but you must have some mechanical skill. If changing a drive belt is difficult for you take it to a mechanic. My tensioner piston fell down into the cover and I had to spend 30 minutes fishing it out, beats pulling the engine to remove the timing cover. I had to remove the motor mount bolt and pry the engine away from the chassis wall just to have enough room to get the old pump out. Other than the tensioner piston fishing and awkward positions over the engine I kinda enjoyed the experience since it is something I no longer have to worry about, or worry about not being able to do. Drain your oil first then after you drain the coolant check the oil drain again for additional antifreeze that will come out.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

Not to be petty but you made 3 threads about the same issue. People have responded to each thread so you could have easily asked your question in there.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...eadgasket.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nswer-plz.html

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

jjust for refrence, when you replace the bolts for the waterpump, be sure to take some RTV and wrap the bolts before you put them in this is just a measure to be sure the coolant does not leak through the threads of the bolts....

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

I don't know, I did the waterpump on my cousin's 95 this past October-November and it took me about 1.5 hour including a break. Didn't seem too bad, it was my first time replacing it while the engine was in the car.

eric96se

I'm in the the middle of this and found out last night that the bottom screw hole is stripped. When I reinstalled the pump and tightening down all the bolts that this one never got tighter, when I pulled the screw out I could see the thread shavings still on the screw. I believe that the M8 bolts that I used to remove the pump bore the hole. Now I'm totally screwed!


And to add to the misery I can't even get the chain to sit on the pully properly

vqmaxman

To get the screw out your gonna need to get a dremal to drill the screw out on top of the screw that was broken in the block.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

what?? His bolt stripped the threads in engine itself... its NOT stuck in the engine unless comprehension is failing me right now but what he's most likely gonna need is some of those helicoils to re-thread or a tap and die set although thats a very small area to work with

cashoit

Agreed.

Somehow he gonna have to re-tap that hole he stripped. Or maybe jus get new bolts and pray to the "maxi gods" that the hole isnt stipped too bad and a new bolt will catch.

I think he can buy somethin that will re-thread a hole. Like an insert or somethin. I forget.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Yea the helicoil I mentioned earlier, something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-.../dp/B0002SRF7Q

magic_max

Make sure you change out the TC guides to the newer style while you're in there.

empitec01

I am thinking about tackling this job, but I am concerned about timing chain noise afterwards. Maintenance thread says this will go away after a test drive around the block? It is necessary to change the tensioner?

Raiom

Just did mine last month and now have to re-open it again as it no longer starts. It trys to crank over but wont make the last commitment on turning over. It idles and purrs like a kitten when its pushed start..Im suspecting timing chain jumped a tooth. Also careful with the piston when removing the tensioner. There is a piston with a spring in the behind it which ads the tension to the chain. To make it easier do what i did. Loosen the bottom bolt on the tensioner (loosen do not remove) Now remove the top bolt on the tensioner completely. This will force the tensioner to push back and up towards the left. Then u can stick ur finger in there and hold the piston while removing the bottom bolt. Alot of people have dropped the piston in the cover and when that happens your gonna kick yourself in the head.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I am in the middle of overhauling my engine. I just replaced the water pump, and stripped the bottom screw while tightening the pump back in.

I had to use a helicoil to do the repair. I just flushed the engine with new motor oil to flush the aluminum shavings out of the engine.

I'm now waiting for my intake valve shims from South Point Nissan.

72240z

Haynes says 61 ft lbs torque on the water pump bolts, ugh. Well 2 bolts made it, but the third stripped. What a disappointment... Looks I will attempt to heli-coil with the engine in the car. I will keep my fingers crossed and maybe not push 61 ft lbs ?

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

WHat???

I don't have a manual in front of me but that is not right. Are you sure it is not inch pounds or newton meters?

svezarov

Man,

It does not say 61 ft lbs.

It says 61 inch/lbs - this is about 5 ft/lbs.

So you torqued it 11 times harder.
That will do...

Raiom

You dont need to remove the motor mount. Everything is in the front. Moving the motor mount might be easier for some (dont dee how) since access to the pump is on the right hand side of the motor mount, I have fat hands and didnt need to. IF your removing the timing cover then yes but if your changing water pump its NOT NECESSARY to remove the motor mount.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

lol god damn...This is where common sense comes into play.

72240z

Sorry Mr Haynes... I am looking at page 3-20 of the Chiltons 52452 Nissan Maxima manual. Page 3-20 Torque Spec for Water pump bolts 60 to 86 FT-lbs...
Yes, I should have know better on an 6 mm bolt... To the next guy who believes what he reads... watch out..
Chilton does NOT talk about the 2 bottom bolts on the bottom of the timing cover either...
Time to find a new manual...

72240z

72240z

Ok.. So for the next Chilton's believer who strips a water pump bolt..
Here is my repair toolkit...
I used these tools to repair the top water pump thread with the engine in the car.
1) Milescraft Drive90 drill adapter (sold at Woodscraft )
2) Milescraft 1/4 inch stubby bit
3) M6x1 Helicoil
4) 4 mm wrench from Craftsman 942339 10 pc Metric combo wrench set.

Note I used the small wrenches for the helicoil tap and specifically used the 4 mm to turn the Helicoil tool.

72240z

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Good work man. Its a big price to pay but you learn from your mistakes and that's always a step forward.

I've stripped plenty of bolts in my day.

kefanman

Just want to point out that your Chilton's manual clearly has the last column mislabeled as ft-lbs instead of in-lbs, just look at the Nm column. For example, in the first row, 16-21 Nm is equal to 144-180 in-lbs, not ft-lbs. Same for every measurement in that section.

Just be aware if you reference these numbers in the future.

drakkan

OMG I just did that to my water pump screw holes too! Both the top and bottom! Happened when I took out the old water pump. It got stuck on the timing chain, and being a first timer, I just thought I had to keep turning the m8 screws. When I finally got the pump out and tried to put the new one in... I had to release one big expletive and quit for the night. So for the guys that went with the helicoils, did this fix the problem with the bored out holes? I am starting to get depressed that I may have royally screwed up my car.

drakkan

When you flushed it with the new motor oil, did you have the new water pump in, or did you do it without the water pump in place? I think I may have to do the same.

drakkan

Anyone? Don't be shy.

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

You are relatively new to the site so I will give you some pointers. I take it that you searched to find this post. However you should realize that the date is from early last year. People don't tend to respond to older posting so I don't advise you to bring an old one 'back to life'.

I just went through the waterpump on my max. Pain in the a^^. I guess the only thing you could do is to try to fix the threads. The larger bolts worked fine for me to get the waterpump to push itself out. Did you turn the crank counter clockwise 20 degrees to get slack in the chain before removing the waterpump?

drakkan

Sorry, didn't know that about responding to old threads. I thought people get pissed if you start a new thread about something that's already been discussed, and then tell off the newbie about using the search button and have it turn into a RTFM situation. Seen it happen before, but this thread was quite relevant to my situation, so I asked in this one rather than start a new one.

Yes, I turned the crank, not sure by how much though, but I was sure trying to make it 20 degrees. Since I couldn't tell exactly how much I was turning it, I just made sure there was enough slack. And I would much rather try to fix the threads than replace that part... I imagine that would be quite expensive. Also I wanted to know about flushing the metal slivers out and was wondering if the pump needs to be in place for that, or be not yet installed.

Again I apologize for reviving an old thread.