Difficulty of Radiator support Swap
04-03-2010, 03:28 PM
#2
This is a difficult job. There are many threads out there relating to this. First thing the support is welded which means you need the machine to weld it back. Also, you have two choices which I have heard of. First, do not buy any aftermarket ones because they only last a few months (wouldn't make it to 6 months) so spend the extra and stay with OEM. Trust me, I have been down this road and had to pay twice to do it. Second, is to find someone that's good at welding to weld back a thick piece of metal right where it rusted and have him drill and weld back the nuts onto the back of it and that will solve your problem.
04-07-2010, 04:25 PM
#4
Would this be a good option? It says it's genuine Nissan.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
09-11-2010, 08:44 PM
#9
yo, throw up a pic of your support, i did mine like 2 years ago and took it to a shop where he bent and welded a thick piece of metal and painted it with several coats of outdoor rustoleum. its holdin for now.
09-12-2010, 12:39 PM
#11
I've done about 6-7 radiator supports, all of them on 95-99s except for one which I did last night on my buddy's 2000 SE. Its a fairly intense job if you've never done it or seen it done before. If you're near the Chicago I may be able to help
Part of the reason why I've done so many is because the first two were aftermarket and only lasted 3 months each. Stick to OEM NISSAN part. Mine has lasted almost 2 years now and still looks like new.
Part of the reason why I've done so many is because the first two were aftermarket and only lasted 3 months each. Stick to OEM NISSAN part. Mine has lasted almost 2 years now and still looks like new.
Last edited by ColombianMax; 09-12-2010 at 12:42 PM.
09-12-2010, 01:25 PM
#12
I've done about 6-7 radiator supports, all of them on 95-99s except for one which I did last night on my buddy's 2000 SE. Its a fairly intense job if you've never done it or seen it done before. If you're near the Chicago I may be able to help
Part of the reason why I've done so many is because the first two were aftermarket and only lasted 3 months each. Stick to OEM NISSAN part. Mine has lasted almost 2 years now and still looks like new.
Part of the reason why I've done so many is because the first two were aftermarket and only lasted 3 months each. Stick to OEM NISSAN part. Mine has lasted almost 2 years now and still looks like new.
09-12-2010, 01:46 PM
#13
09-12-2010, 02:25 PM
#14
09-12-2010, 04:02 PM
#17
I'm in omaha NE so up to you...
09-12-2010, 10:17 PM
#18
There is suppose to be an extra piece of iron where the bolts go in for the crossmember which the aftermarket ones do not have. The weight of the engine just rips through the weak aftermarket metal and you are back to square one.
09-12-2010, 11:57 PM
#19
Because they look like this on day 1
[IMG]
[/IMG]and then like this on day 90
09-13-2010, 01:12 PM
#23
Are they all like that? or just certain ones? i thought most have to be capa certified in order to be sold?? WTF man i dont want to spend over 300 for a new support...or even 150 for a lower one at that from nissan!! hmmm it really isnt that labor instense if youve ever worked on a car or did an engine swap, i can get my whole front end apart in like 25 minutes so the most of the time would be spent ripping the old one off for sure, however two guys one on each side could have it off in no time and install is quite simple its just tedious and time consuming.....something basically that requires some beer LOL
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09-13-2010, 05:11 PM
#24
09-13-2010, 10:01 PM
#26
09-14-2010, 08:20 AM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
I'm on my 2nd Radiator support that was an "aftermarket certified" Keystone auto part. I got the car back, and day 1, one of the spot welds popped, and by day 3, four had gone.
My mechanic, who was very frustrated at this point, having to do 2 supports in 3 months deduced that the support was weak, and for the time being actually DRILLED out into the top of the support where the bolts holes are, then machined a piece to fit on the top of the support. After that he threaded the holes on the machined piece, and fitted it with grade 8 bolts. So instead of all the weight being put on the lower part of the support, it is putting it on the top of the support where it is more structurally sound. I've had it like that for over a year, and with hard driving it has still yet to budge.
If your bottom of your support is still in somewhat decent shape, then clean it up, and try this method. Make sure not to over-tourque the bolts because it will squish the support on the bottom.
My mechanic, who was very frustrated at this point, having to do 2 supports in 3 months deduced that the support was weak, and for the time being actually DRILLED out into the top of the support where the bolts holes are, then machined a piece to fit on the top of the support. After that he threaded the holes on the machined piece, and fitted it with grade 8 bolts. So instead of all the weight being put on the lower part of the support, it is putting it on the top of the support where it is more structurally sound. I've had it like that for over a year, and with hard driving it has still yet to budge.
If your bottom of your support is still in somewhat decent shape, then clean it up, and try this method. Make sure not to over-tourque the bolts because it will squish the support on the bottom.
09-14-2010, 05:53 PM
#28
I'm on my 2nd Radiator support that was an "aftermarket certified" Keystone auto part. I got the car back, and day 1, one of the spot welds popped, and by day 3, four had gone.
My mechanic, who was very frustrated at this point, having to do 2 supports in 3 months deduced that the support was weak, and for the time being actually DRILLED out into the top of the support where the bolts holes are, then machined a piece to fit on the top of the support. After that he threaded the holes on the machined piece, and fitted it with grade 8 bolts. So instead of all the weight being put on the lower part of the support, it is putting it on the top of the support where it is more structurally sound. I've had it like that for over a year, and with hard driving it has still yet to budge.
If your bottom of your support is still in somewhat decent shape, then clean it up, and try this method. Make sure not to over-tourque the bolts because it will squish the support on the bottom.
My mechanic, who was very frustrated at this point, having to do 2 supports in 3 months deduced that the support was weak, and for the time being actually DRILLED out into the top of the support where the bolts holes are, then machined a piece to fit on the top of the support. After that he threaded the holes on the machined piece, and fitted it with grade 8 bolts. So instead of all the weight being put on the lower part of the support, it is putting it on the top of the support where it is more structurally sound. I've had it like that for over a year, and with hard driving it has still yet to budge.
If your bottom of your support is still in somewhat decent shape, then clean it up, and try this method. Make sure not to over-tourque the bolts because it will squish the support on the bottom.
09-17-2010, 01:58 PM
#29
I found a couple guys locally to weld for $100. One asked me if I want it a stick or MIG weld. I'm no bozo but here I must be..
I understand it's just spot welding thats to be done here, can anyone please offer some input?
I understand it's just spot welding thats to be done here, can anyone please offer some input?
09-17-2010, 02:33 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
I did mine about 2 months ago. Aside from being a long job, I didn't find it as hard as most people say it is. I did have some fitment problems with the OEM nissan support that took me a little while to fix.
Be careful if you use the old bolts from the crossmember. I ended up breaking the welds that hold the nuts inside the support when I impacted the bolts in. I had to cut a rectangle where the top of the nuts are and re-weld them properly.
Taking the old one off was easy. Just gotta drill out the welds. Actually instead of welding the new one on I rivetted it on where I drilled out the spotwelds. It's holding great.
M.
Be careful if you use the old bolts from the crossmember. I ended up breaking the welds that hold the nuts inside the support when I impacted the bolts in. I had to cut a rectangle where the top of the nuts are and re-weld them properly.
Taking the old one off was easy. Just gotta drill out the welds. Actually instead of welding the new one on I rivetted it on where I drilled out the spotwelds. It's holding great.
M.
09-17-2010, 07:48 PM
#31
I did mine about 2 months ago. Aside from being a long job, I didn't find it as hard as most people say it is. I did have some fitment problems with the OEM nissan support that took me a little while to fix.
Be careful if you use the old bolts from the crossmember. I ended up breaking the welds that hold the nuts inside the support when I impacted the bolts in. I had to cut a rectangle where the top of the nuts are and re-weld them properly.
Taking the old one off was easy. Just gotta drill out the welds. Actually instead of welding the new one on I rivetted it on where I drilled out the spotwelds. It's holding great.
M.
Be careful if you use the old bolts from the crossmember. I ended up breaking the welds that hold the nuts inside the support when I impacted the bolts in. I had to cut a rectangle where the top of the nuts are and re-weld them properly.
Taking the old one off was easy. Just gotta drill out the welds. Actually instead of welding the new one on I rivetted it on where I drilled out the spotwelds. It's holding great.
M.
Problems with an OEM support?? Sounds like your car was in an accident and wasn't straightened back out right.
09-18-2010, 10:28 AM
#32
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
Nope. Even OEM parts can have minor defects. In my case two of the holes were slightly misaligned. My car's only had two previous owners, both of which are friends of mine. My car's never even been in a fender bender.
09-18-2010, 08:35 PM
#33
Also, I would question your OEM support because how would the nuts break off by reusing the old crossmember screws?? That would indicate that you don't have the extra piece of iron holding the nuts.
09-19-2010, 12:03 AM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
Are you sure about that? My car has been in 3 accidents and my body man put it in without any alignment issues..I was helping him put it in and he has been the only man to work on my car.
Also, I would question your OEM support because how would the nuts break off by reusing the old crossmember screws?? That would indicate that you don't have the extra piece of iron holding the nuts.
Also, I would question your OEM support because how would the nuts break off by reusing the old crossmember screws?? That would indicate that you don't have the extra piece of iron holding the nuts.
A. I know both previous owners.
B. I have a carfax report.
09-19-2010, 05:00 PM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 18
There's some quality posts here, but thought I'd add my personal experiences.
I rear-ended a truck and took his tow hitch. My front rebar had pinched my radiator into a C shape against my motor. I drove this 5 miles home, successfully. Here's what I did:
1) Had to use a come along winch to get the pressure off the radiator so I could remove it, you probably won't need this, since it's just rust! =P
2) Got a new radiator support from CertiFit (I hate these guys.) The part miraculous fit pretty well once I got the new rebar on (which didn't fit as nicely.)
3) I just used a torch and cut off the old one, you have to completely remove head light assemblies, the grille assembly, the bumper cover should come out too. I then had to use a chisel, because they use some insane adhesive weld **** attach that part.
4) I put the new one in place, put all the parts on, got it where I wanted it, and drilled 2 screws in to hold it.
5) Drove it down the street to a muffler shop and paid them to weld it on.
6) The car made it around 8k miles after that before I finally ran into head gasket problems and parted it.
It's a beast of a task, and I'd set aside 3 days to work on it.
I rear-ended a truck and took his tow hitch. My front rebar had pinched my radiator into a C shape against my motor. I drove this 5 miles home, successfully. Here's what I did:
1) Had to use a come along winch to get the pressure off the radiator so I could remove it, you probably won't need this, since it's just rust! =P
2) Got a new radiator support from CertiFit (I hate these guys.) The part miraculous fit pretty well once I got the new rebar on (which didn't fit as nicely.)
3) I just used a torch and cut off the old one, you have to completely remove head light assemblies, the grille assembly, the bumper cover should come out too. I then had to use a chisel, because they use some insane adhesive weld **** attach that part.
4) I put the new one in place, put all the parts on, got it where I wanted it, and drilled 2 screws in to hold it.
5) Drove it down the street to a muffler shop and paid them to weld it on.
6) The car made it around 8k miles after that before I finally ran into head gasket problems and parted it.
It's a beast of a task, and I'd set aside 3 days to work on it.
09-19-2010, 05:04 PM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 18
No I did not. I still have to get it spot welded but no shop wants to, every shop I've taken it to either wants $200+ for a few spot welds or won't touch or it
Just a broke guy who didn't trust others to work on my car, and wanted to do it myself, so I took the task up but I need an experienced welder.
09-19-2010, 09:34 PM
#37
anyone have experience with spot weld removing drill bits? I can get a cheap one on ebay for about 14 shipped, 8mm which is approx 3/8"...I have an air chisel should that be enough like Columbianmax stated?
09-20-2010, 05:03 PM
#38
ttt here is waht the new one looks like i sprayed it with 3 coats of black rusto, then 2 coats of bedliner lol I dont think it will rust anytime soon.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 09-20-2010 at 09:05 PM.
09-26-2010, 08:42 AM
#39
I'm in the process of welding mine back onto my maxima. I wanted to know what type of weld you used to weld it back on? If you spot welded, did you need to fill the material you drilled out behind the old support back in, or what! I understand spot welder have two electrodes for pressure to fuse the two metals together, but can I just drill out the new crossmember and stick feed?
