So its been quite a weekend.

Spent a good part of yesterday trying to get EGR flow sensor off to access EGR tube bottom bolts. Gave up on that and instead removed some hoses (and more) and finally got access to the nut/bolt. Finally was able to hack the bolt today and have room to get the nut off...if only it would break.

I've tried every method possible to get the rusted nut off the hacked bolt, but it just won't break. Tried different length wrenches (to get more torque, better grip, etc) and that didn't help. Have tried PB Blaster and still not breaking. I finally got a wrench on good and the wench turned and I thought hallelujah, but it made a horrible sound, so I looked and the wrench is turning but not the not. The bolt isn't stripped though, the corners are still pretty hard corners. But now I'm scared of stripping the bolt.

So I gues I'm unsure what to do at this point. PB Blaster isn't loosening the thing. Trying to get the wrench to lock on and break it worries me about stripping the nut.

Any ideas? Is there a tool that i could get in there to cut a nut off. It'd be like heart surgery I'm sure, but is it possible to get a dremel in there to cut a nut without ruining the bolt? Hoenstly, my next step is to post and ad on Craigslist offering $50 for each bolt on the EGR to be cracked open. I'm a pretty strong guy, but maybe someone has a stronger grip than I or some magic/withcraft/voodoo to help.

I've never experienced a bolt rusted on so that it can't be broken, and I have about 3 such bolts I've encountered today.

 

Heat it up with a butane torch.

Are you turning it the correct way and not accidentally tightening it more?

 

Not sure i can get a torch into that area, wish i could but I can't really get anything (torch, socket, etc) into this tight space...

Curious though, any products that simulate heat...i.e. like "Icy Hot" for car parts lol?

 

http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/

Never failed me yet.

 

I'm already many hours and several other compunds into my attempts to break the bolt. I'll give this a try.

 

Hey pics would help a lot. I am familiar with the bolts for the top of the egr tube connecting to the upper-manifold.

On the spot you refer to are you using a 10 point socket and are you able to fit a breaker bar in there? Sears sells a special socket set for stripped nuts. Problem is that the socket itself has to be hammered onto the nut/bolt that you remove.

 

COOOOOOOOOOOOOL

 

im going to buy this right now..

 

It's either 6 or 12 point. 6 being the better choice.

 

Is in a very tight space, especially the bottom bolt that I'm referring to. I can't get a socket of any kind on there due to the narrow entry onto the bolt (you have to hack the bolt just to get the wronch on or the nut off) so I'm pretty sure the socket solution isnt going to work for me.

I bought a nut splitter. Suppsoedly you put it on the nut, twist the screw and it drives a metal "stake" into the nut causing it to break. Since its a $.40 nut that wouldn't bother me. I've spent enough on chemicals already (PB Blaster, WD-40, other) that I'm going to try the nut splitter tonight. Hopefully that works (though I'm not sure how high quality the nut splitter Ace had in stock is)

I'll keep you posted.

 

Blakefree, I don't have any pictures of my own nut/bolt issue, but there are very good pictures in this thread

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ing-p0400.html

Its the bolt/nut in the pictures where they talk about hacking the bolt to get the nut off...its just my nut/bolt are WAY more rusted. You can see its a narrow area, probably can't get a socket on there, and even if I could it'd still be a hard area to to get a ratchet of any length into, and without a decent sized ratchet I can't get the torque I'd probably need.

 

...finally.

So I will sign on for recommending CRC's freezing product (forget the name, the stuff is in my trunk). PB Blaster, WD 40 and so forth didn't cut it, go CRC.

Only 1 complicated bolt left, the front lower, which I've never even tried, hopefully I'm past the hard part lol.

 

Instead of ordering that freeze and release stuff, why not just get a can of air from the computer store and turn it upside down and spray.

 

the freeze and release stuff has a penetrating oil in it also.

 

That's really my only recommendation. of course it was put on after PB blaster which was after WD40 (or something else), so maybe it was the combination of the 3.

 

WD40 is only good for cleaning greasy tools. PB Blaster is not much better. Supposedly Kano Kroil is the best, but it's expensive and it never seemed to me to do anything either. Finally, somebody did a test and claimed that a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is the best penetrating oil. Haven't tried it myself.

 

working on cars these days one must be part engineer, part psychologist, and now part evil chemist. And that's just for the basics lol.

 

hahah so true

 

must be a rocket scientist

 

That 50/50 thing has been making the rounds on forums for almost 3 years now. I have yet to see the entire original article describing how the 'test' was done. I recall that the guy soaked some rusted nuts and bolts in solution(s) for several hours before twisting them apart. I wouldn't call that a practical approach for removing a seized fastener. I'd be more interested in seeing how well these things work in 15 minutes.

I've used PB Blaster, Kroil, and Liquid Wrench at various times and can't say that I've come across something that only Kroil (or PB or LW) would work on. Sometimes they all fail if you're in a hurry. Still, the Loctite F&R sounds like something worth keeping in the garage for those places that you can't fire a torch into.

 

Hows about an icecube and... Pb blaster? lololol

 

Of an episode of the Simpsons. I think it was called "23 short films about Springfield"

In one of the episodes, Lisa gets gum in her hair and Marge tries home rememdies to get it out. She ends up with like honey, peanut butter, mayonnaise, etc all in Lisa's hair and still nothing works and just cuts it out in the end (I think).

PB Blaster, F&R, and several other things whose names I don't recall are now in my collection. But at least one worked for me, and that's all that matters.

 

Can any body who live in the or close to the Harrisburg, PA area give me a help with this issue?. I am currently stuck at removing the coolant hose that goes around the front of the ERG Valve preventing clearance. In addition, what can i do to help loosing the electrical bolt the other nut on the valve