Questions for buying a 1996 Maxima...need serious help!
#1
Questions for buying a 1996 Maxima...need serious help!
I was looking in the paper for different Maximas and found one about 2 hrs from my house. I have a budget of around $9500 and then $1000 in my car acct. This will be my first car as i turn 16 on January 9th. Anyways, its a 1996 Maxima GLE loaded with all the standard GLE stuff and ABS, pwr moonroof, and heated seats. The guy wants $9500 for it but as i was test driving it there were 3 main problems:
1) The brakes pulsated while slowing down. I am assuming i will need to replace the rotors and am assuming about $5-600 for just that at worst.
2) The infamous Check Engine light is on. First it scared the crap out of me, then i looked on this board and realized how common it is. It was sold at auction right before this guy got it, so i dont know if its safe to assume that theres nothing wrong? Its not flashing, and i understand if it is flashing theres a major problem.
3) The guy has no records for the car. I checked the VIN number with CarFax.com and it was completely clean. (Yes, i did a full report)
It is black with a green tint (whatever they call that) and has no cosmetic damage, it is in near pristine condition with 84,000 miles. What do you guys think?
1) The brakes pulsated while slowing down. I am assuming i will need to replace the rotors and am assuming about $5-600 for just that at worst.
2) The infamous Check Engine light is on. First it scared the crap out of me, then i looked on this board and realized how common it is. It was sold at auction right before this guy got it, so i dont know if its safe to assume that theres nothing wrong? Its not flashing, and i understand if it is flashing theres a major problem.
3) The guy has no records for the car. I checked the VIN number with CarFax.com and it was completely clean. (Yes, i did a full report)
It is black with a green tint (whatever they call that) and has no cosmetic damage, it is in near pristine condition with 84,000 miles. What do you guys think?
#2
personally.. he is trying to shaft you.. you can get a 98 SE AUTO for 10k .. now its no GLE with the wood trim, leather and climate control.. but its also 2 years newer than the 96 .. it has better saftey than the 96.. in other words.. i wouldn't pay more than 7k for a 96 GLE..
check the prices on autotrader and other sites.. see whta they go for.. that price is just too high
check the prices on autotrader and other sites.. see whta they go for.. that price is just too high
#3
I wouldn't buy it with no records, unless he is willing to let you take it you your own personal mechanic to have it checked out. The Check Engine Light is not a common thing for the Maxima. Its only common for the people of this board because we are into modding it and sometimes run into problems. 84,000 miles is not high, but it is getting up there. If you really like it, then persue it and get it checked out, but if I were you, I'd keep looking.
#4
i bought my 96 max 5spd for 10300, it had only 23k miles on it(i bought it less than amonth ago). I got only an average deal. There are plently of maxs out there for you price range in better condition. Where do you live that the closest max is 2 hrs away? Keep checking the classifieds, its worth it in the end to get something you know is good than get ****ed later with that stupid check engine light.
#6
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Yea right a 96 for less then 7K...yea completly striped and gutted...they sell for seriously about 8-9K..your not getting shafted but I wouldnt buy a car with NO records and a unknown owner...look around for another one, trust me when you find it..youll definetly know its the one..everything will click together
#7
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
When I bought my 96se back in Feb it had 86K miles on it and the check engine light was on...Like when you get a used car, you should always get it looked at by a macanic before you buy it...so when they looked at it, i had them run the code and it came up a gas back flow leak...minor...so I talked to the owner and he took 300$ off the price of the car..it could be a lose gas cap or even a bad gas cap
#8
I live in San Rafael, 10 mins from San Francisco. The GLE features are important to me which causes a problem. According to Edmunds.com the price is actually very reasonable, esp. for a GLE with ABS (a must) The check engine light does scare me, i just believed it to be common. In looking for 2 months (i know its not that long) its the best deal ive been able to find. Keep in mind Edmunds factors in about a $500 'regional adjustment'. Anways, I was kinda hoping you guys would tell me to get it cuz i do love it, but i guess ill wait for yet some more input. I am going to try to offer him $9200 in lieu of the brakes and have him take it to the Nissan dealer and give me the results and if it checks out write him a check....any more thoughts, suggestions. I know i shouldnt be, but im kinda in a rush to get a car as soon as i can so i can have it when i get my license...
#9
By the way, after looking on AutoTrader, Cars.com, Usedcars.com and Yahoo! Classifieds and my local papers, there is no 1996 GLE w/ABS and all the features for near $9500, anyways, it may seem like im trying to convince you guys into telling me to buy it cuz thats what i really wanna do!!!
Derek
Derek
#10
Originally posted by matty
When I bought my 96se back in Feb it had 86K miles on it and the check engine light was on...Like when you get a used car, you should always get it looked at by a macanic before you buy it...so when they looked at it, i had them run the code and it came up a gas back flow leak...minor...so I talked to the owner and he took 300$ off the price of the car..it could be a lose gas cap or even a bad gas cap
When I bought my 96se back in Feb it had 86K miles on it and the check engine light was on...Like when you get a used car, you should always get it looked at by a macanic before you buy it...so when they looked at it, i had them run the code and it came up a gas back flow leak...minor...so I talked to the owner and he took 300$ off the price of the car..it could be a lose gas cap or even a bad gas cap
#12
Originally posted by KCTYPHOON
im no used car expert... but the fact it was an auction car would be enough to steer me away...
im no used car expert... but the fact it was an auction car would be enough to steer me away...
#13
I HATE YOU. 16 AND A GLE MAXIMA. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOO0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000. I THINK I AM GOING TO GO CRY NOW. ANYWAYS 10K FOR A 96 GLE IS PRICEY. WWW.CARMAX.COM GOOD STUFF FOR 10K PLUS IT IS SAFE TO GET IT FROM CARMAX.COM
sorry for the CAPS. I apologize.
sorry for the CAPS. I apologize.
#14
Originally posted by MaxDriver98
I HATE YOU. 16 AND A GLE MAXIMA. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOO0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000. I THINK I AM GOING TO GO CRY NOW. ANYWAYS 10K FOR A 96 GLE IS PRICEY. WWW.CARMAX.COM GOOD STUFF FOR 10K PLUS IT IS SAFE TO GET IT FROM CARMAX.COM
sorry for the CAPS. I apologize.
I HATE YOU. 16 AND A GLE MAXIMA. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOO0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000. I THINK I AM GOING TO GO CRY NOW. ANYWAYS 10K FOR A 96 GLE IS PRICEY. WWW.CARMAX.COM GOOD STUFF FOR 10K PLUS IT IS SAFE TO GET IT FROM CARMAX.COM
sorry for the CAPS. I apologize.
#15
Originally posted by matty
Yea right a 96 for less then 7K...yea completly striped and gutted...they sell for seriously about 8-9K..your not getting shafted but I wouldnt buy a car with NO records and a unknown owner...look around for another one, trust me when you find it..youll definetly know its the one..everything will click together
Yea right a 96 for less then 7K...yea completly striped and gutted...they sell for seriously about 8-9K..your not getting shafted but I wouldnt buy a car with NO records and a unknown owner...look around for another one, trust me when you find it..youll definetly know its the one..everything will click together
#16
dude, i know you dont get the recycler near san fran but here is some examples: There links are only gonna last one day so.....
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=562&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=562&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=818&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=818&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=909&bSQ=0
Trust me wait for a better deal
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=562&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=562&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=818&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=818&bSQ=0
http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.as...sBAC=909&bSQ=0
Trust me wait for a better deal
#17
96 MAX GLE 9500 not bad
Last summer I bought a 96 MAX GLE at an auction for 7300. Only catch was it had 134,000 miles on it already....but guess what?..not a problem...i had two mechanics with me...the cars engine is still silent...everything is fine inside and out, still mint...my family is in the autoparts business neway so if i needed parts it wasnt a problem...but for you, a 96 GLE for 9500 is a dam good price...unless you know someone that can get you into a Dealers Auction...not one of those seized police auctions (too many scams). I would listen to the guys on the 98SE...sure its a great car...but the options on a GLE are hot...16 with a GLE is hot...SE vs. GLE...and i guarantee you, whichever one you get change your oil on time and dont touch anything else in the engine until it has to be fixed or if u want to upgrade. Your MAX will last beyond 200,000 miles (if u want it that long). They are great cars similar to the long lasting acura legends out on the road.
#19
Originally posted by DerekJ212
Only better priced ones i can find are in LA area and thats just too far for me to go. But should i be really worried about the Check Engine light?
Only better priced ones i can find are in LA area and thats just too far for me to go. But should i be really worried about the Check Engine light?
#20
Originally posted by SprintMax
not untill you know what it is.. it might be a simple fix.. check the ECU diagnostic codes link above
not untill you know what it is.. it might be a simple fix.. check the ECU diagnostic codes link above
Derek
#21
Originally posted by SprintMax
not untill you know what it is.. it might be a simple fix.. check the ECU diagnostic codes link above
not untill you know what it is.. it might be a simple fix.. check the ECU diagnostic codes link above
Derek
#22
well for future reference.. all you need is a flat head screw driver
Originally posted by DerekJ212
How can i check the ECU, i dont have any special tools or anything, and i doubt itd be worth it to buy it just for one time....
Derek
How can i check the ECU, i dont have any special tools or anything, and i doubt itd be worth it to buy it just for one time....
Derek
#24
Originally posted by DerekJ212
Since the brakes are pulsating and it has 85,000 miles, do you think the rotors will need to be replaced...either way if i have dealer or other place do it, how much am i looking at?
Since the brakes are pulsating and it has 85,000 miles, do you think the rotors will need to be replaced...either way if i have dealer or other place do it, how much am i looking at?
its much easier to do it yourself.. much much much easier.. take you about 1hr 1/2 .. you need help.. we will help you.. you need pictures.. i got pictures.. you need step by step instructions.. i might take some videos next time i am doing them..
#25
Originally posted by SprintMax
front and rear? around $300
its much easier to do it yourself.. much much much easier.. take you about 1hr 1/2 .. you need help.. we will help you.. you need pictures.. i got pictures.. you need step by step instructions.. i might take some videos next time i am doing them..
front and rear? around $300
its much easier to do it yourself.. much much much easier.. take you about 1hr 1/2 .. you need help.. we will help you.. you need pictures.. i got pictures.. you need step by step instructions.. i might take some videos next time i am doing them..
#26
Re: Questions for buying a 1996 Maxima...need serious help!
I knew some people who bought high mileage cars at auctions. They then rolled back the odometer to someting reasonable and sold it for a profit. He told me that it was a common thing and that many people do it.
Originally posted by DerekJ212
I was looking in the paper for different Maximas and found one about 2 hrs from my house. I have a budget of around $9500 and then $1000 in my car acct. This will be my first car as i turn 16 on January 9th. Anyways, its a 1996 Maxima GLE loaded with all the standard GLE stuff and ABS, pwr moonroof, and heated seats. The guy wants $9500 for it but as i was test driving it there were 3 main problems:
1) The brakes pulsated while slowing down. I am assuming i will need to replace the rotors and am assuming about $5-600 for just that at worst.
2) The infamous Check Engine light is on. First it scared the crap out of me, then i looked on this board and realized how common it is. It was sold at auction right before this guy got it, so i dont know if its safe to assume that theres nothing wrong? Its not flashing, and i understand if it is flashing theres a major problem.
3) The guy has no records for the car. I checked the VIN number with CarFax.com and it was completely clean. (Yes, i did a full report)
It is black with a green tint (whatever they call that) and has no cosmetic damage, it is in near pristine condition with 84,000 miles. What do you guys think?
I was looking in the paper for different Maximas and found one about 2 hrs from my house. I have a budget of around $9500 and then $1000 in my car acct. This will be my first car as i turn 16 on January 9th. Anyways, its a 1996 Maxima GLE loaded with all the standard GLE stuff and ABS, pwr moonroof, and heated seats. The guy wants $9500 for it but as i was test driving it there were 3 main problems:
1) The brakes pulsated while slowing down. I am assuming i will need to replace the rotors and am assuming about $5-600 for just that at worst.
2) The infamous Check Engine light is on. First it scared the crap out of me, then i looked on this board and realized how common it is. It was sold at auction right before this guy got it, so i dont know if its safe to assume that theres nothing wrong? Its not flashing, and i understand if it is flashing theres a major problem.
3) The guy has no records for the car. I checked the VIN number with CarFax.com and it was completely clean. (Yes, i did a full report)
It is black with a green tint (whatever they call that) and has no cosmetic damage, it is in near pristine condition with 84,000 miles. What do you guys think?
#27
Re: Re: Questions for buying a 1996 Maxima...need serious help!
Originally posted by gabuchu
I knew some people who bought high mileage cars at auctions. They then rolled back the odometer to someting reasonable and sold it for a profit. He told me that it was a common thing and that many people do it.
I knew some people who bought high mileage cars at auctions. They then rolled back the odometer to someting reasonable and sold it for a profit. He told me that it was a common thing and that many people do it.
#28
Re: Re: Re: Questions for buying a 1996 Maxima...need serious help!
Originally posted by DerekJ212
CarFax reports no rollback, so i believe that....
CarFax reports no rollback, so i believe that....
#29
Originally posted by DerekJ212
How much are parts then?
How much are parts then?
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
I live in NJ and bought my fully loaded, leather, sunroof, the hole nine yards, 96se 5spd for $8100. It had full service records with printed out copies of oil changed throughtout its life. The car had 86,000 miles on it and he wanted $8,900. I offered him $8,400 and then the 300 for the check engine light...I got it for $8,100...there are good deals out there, but you have to look.
#31
Take it to a mechanic !!!!!! I think Pep Boys is national and they can check it out. I don't know how good they are but any port in the storm is better than none. Be very careful with any auctioned car.
#32
Originally posted by DerekJ212
Now honestly guys, I jst went to the CarMax.com and there is nothing near $9500!! Theyre all around 11k! So, i dont see why youre saying its too much. If anything, im thinking its a better deal because of the problems. Anyways, thanks for the posts...still looking for more!
Now honestly guys, I jst went to the CarMax.com and there is nothing near $9500!! Theyre all around 11k! So, i dont see why youre saying its too much. If anything, im thinking its a better deal because of the problems. Anyways, thanks for the posts...still looking for more!
I am sure you can find Maxima's cheaper. But in the SF bay area things are just a little different than other parts of the country. There are people paying $500K for a 2-bedroom 1200-sq ft house in the bay area while others are paying only $100K for the same kind of house in other parts of the country. It's not apple to apple.
I bought my fully loaded 96SE with almost 100K miles a year ago for $10K. It sounded like a lousy deal to many people here but they had no idea how hard I searched for a deal like that in the bay area.
I think I saw that car advertised on Yahoo, if the car you saw is in San Jose. The brake pulsation is not major. I just had my rotors turned for $20 and problem solved. Cannot comment on the engine light though.
#33
Originally posted by nixima
Derek,
I am sure you can find Maxima's cheaper. But in the SF bay area things are just a little different than other parts of the country. There are people paying $500K for a 2-bedroom 1200-sq ft house in the bay area while others are paying only $100K for the same kind of house in other parts of the country. It's not apple to apple.
I bought my fully loaded 96SE with almost 100K miles a year ago for $10K. It sounded like a lousy deal to many people here but they had no idea how hard I searched for a deal like that in the bay area.
I think I saw that car advertised on Yahoo, if the car you saw is in San Jose. The brake pulsation is not major. I just had my rotors turned for $20 and problem solved. Cannot comment on the engine light though.
Derek,
I am sure you can find Maxima's cheaper. But in the SF bay area things are just a little different than other parts of the country. There are people paying $500K for a 2-bedroom 1200-sq ft house in the bay area while others are paying only $100K for the same kind of house in other parts of the country. It's not apple to apple.
I bought my fully loaded 96SE with almost 100K miles a year ago for $10K. It sounded like a lousy deal to many people here but they had no idea how hard I searched for a deal like that in the bay area.
I think I saw that car advertised on Yahoo, if the car you saw is in San Jose. The brake pulsation is not major. I just had my rotors turned for $20 and problem solved. Cannot comment on the engine light though.
Wish me luck on the ECU!
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, I have the instructions and they look easy, but there could be something im missing for all i know.
Derek
#34
The instructions I've seen tell you to unscrew the two screws to access the ECU. Screws huh? Well my 97 has screws without any slots to insert a screwdriver in. If you have endcutters they would be helpful to get under the screwhead and pull them out. It probably would be best to cover the endcutters with electrical tape so you don't scratch the panel when you insert them under the screwhead.
My ECU had a seal on the screw used to turn the ECU into diag. mode.
I guess this is put on at the factory, so if you see it sealed take that as a positive.
My ECU had a seal on the screw used to turn the ECU into diag. mode.
I guess this is put on at the factory, so if you see it sealed take that as a positive.
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